Scott Meggison Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Hello to everyone, I am new to WoodTalk Forum. Looks like a great spot to talk wood and learn new stuff. I just bought a Unisaw model 34-761 at an auction. 3hp, 3phase w/phase convertor. $300 out the door, in decent shape. Just got it unloaded into my shop and will be pulling wire for it. I am looking for a manual and found a site that has parts. My problem is that they list model #34-761 Type I thru Type 4 I am not sure what the differences are between the Types. Any help would be appreciated. Also need a manual/parts list. Thanks in advance for any help Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 I have gotten help from a place called "The Saw Center" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Scott, welcome to the forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 The saw center has good stuff. What's the plan for power? Do you have 3 phase power or going to run a vfd or swap the motor? The tag says 94 but it shouldn't have the little trap door on the front as a 94. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Hello and welcome! What are your plans for the saw, are you going to completely rebuild it, or just get it clean enough to start using it? Either way you should check out owwm.org (old wood working machines). They know everything about these saws and will be able to help you a great deal. I am personally not familiar with the different types of this exact model. At some point they started putting the bearings into the arbor a little differently and the lock nuts on the wheels worked differently, those are pretty much the only real differences in the unisaw models though. BTW, you definitely should consider replacing the bearings in there as they likely have not been touched since it was made. What you have there is the "peace sign" rockwell unisaw which puts the saw build in the 70s to early 80s if I remember correctly. Looking up the serial number on owwm.com unisaw information area will give you an exact year though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Meggison Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Thanks to all who responded. I have since found that the saw was made in 1980 by the Tupelo division. this is per wiki.vintagemachinery.org Brendon_t Not sure about the trap door. It is what it is. Still not sure about the "Type 1-4". The saw came with a vfd by Niagara Electric. I will be pulling a 220vac line to feed the vfd. Minorhero My heart says to plug my "New Toy" in and play with it. My head says replace the arbor bearings and belts while I have the top off. I looked at some instructions on The Saw Center and it looks like it will be fairly easy. I will post more pix as I go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 It's apart already so do the bearings and belts. Make sure to get a matched set of belts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Meggison Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Speaking of belts, any thoughts on "Link Belts"? I had good luck with them dampening vibration with my lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 No, hell no! Get a set of 3 matched belts that are specifically for a UniSaw. The triple pulleys provide years of function and my original set lasted 17 years in daily use in my cabinet shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Totally a gimmick. The 5 hp beast under those belts will provide all the vibration dampening you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Link belts are not a good option for this machine. They will not eat and kill a cast iron pulley but the zinc/potmetal pulleys usually used on the motors will get torn up over time by link belts. Cogged belts however have the advantages of linked belts for anti-vibration without their damaged effects. Additionally modern belts are made within tolerances that exceed the older ones. "Matched" belts are no longer needed. Just appropriate sized belts. Check out this website for more information on disassembling the arbor bearings. http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/how to properly clean a unisaw.ashx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Should be a machined triple pulley on a UniSaw motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Meggison Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 More good info from the group. Great stuff! I really appreciate the input. Thanks for the help. btw, my next project is an old delta 14" bandsaw I bought at a (literally) fire sale. The wiring is melted, but the rest is just sooty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 I've got one of those bandsaws too. Over the years I've been through everything on the saw including swapping out the motor. Only thing I haven't had to change or work on is the wiring. I replaced the upper and lower blade guides with the Carter ball bearing units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 So I'm thinking I may need to take off my link belts on my seven year old jet cabinet saw.I installed them seven months ago. They do seem to cut down on vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Meggison Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 I picked up a set of ceramic guide blocks, but haven't done anything with them yet. Gotta get it clean and rewired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 11 hours ago, wdwerker said: I replaced the upper and lower blade guides with the Carter ball bearing units. Can you use 1/4in wide blades with them or are they best with wider blades? All I have used is cool blocks and tried some wood ones on a 1/8in blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 12 hours ago, mat60 said: So I'm thinking I may need to take off my link belts on my seven year old jet cabinet saw.I installed them seven months ago. They do seem to cut down on vibration. Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Meggison Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Mat60 I have not tried them yet. Still have to rewire the saw. I'll let you know. Brendon_t Glad to hear they helped you. They work well on my lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 I think Mat60 was being sarcastic. I've run linkbelts on 3hp machines with steel pulleys for over a decade with no signs of wear. I do have adequate dust collection. Is it the spoil that wears on things? Plywood ZCI's certainly wear out from the abrasion over time. Maybe the wear mentioned was similar(?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 I relay wasn't being sarcastic guys. I took what Steve said as they are a bad idea. May have misunderstood him. If gee-dub has been using linkbelts for years on steel pulleys than I'm all good. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 I put linkbelts on a contractor saw & my jointer & they reduced vibration tremendously. The saw also had slippage problems that the linkbelt took care of. Put em on the drill press & they did nothing for it. I've since been educated that good quality conventional or cogged belts are a better solution, but no personal experience there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 The Carter ball bearing guides work w any width blade. You can adjust the side and back bearings to support the blade wherever it's tracking on the wheels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Steel pulleys are not the issue, its the pot metal pulleys that are trouble. Take a magnet to the pulley, if it sticks your fine. If it doesn't don't use a linkbelt. Go with cogged belts or traditional v-belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Meggison Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Well I finally got the arbor off and apart. I watched several vids and they helped. The one thing I am not sure of is some of the vids referred to spacers and washers next to the arbor pulley. My unit only had 2 same size spacers on each side. Is this a normal variation or am I missing something? I have new belts and bearing ordered. both pulleys are steel not pot metal, so that is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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