Popular Post Rick N Posted September 21, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Hey All, My current shop has the traditional peg board, wire shelves and bare studs. I really don't have a way to protect my hand planes as they go in a drawer and the keep getting dinged on the way in and out. Time to get rid of the pegboard but first I need to build a cabinet. I have no time for building with two little kids so I want to enjoy every project. I have lots of walnut and decided I should spoil my tools and make a nice one. Since this goes over my bench I can't make it stick out to far. Which really affects the hand plane options. I'm still going to try a ramp. Spent a few days on it so far. Here we go. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Very nice, what are those red guys in the corners of the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcdavid Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 This is awesome! Been looking into doing something like this too so I will be keeping an eye on your build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Nice looking cabinet! Nothing makes you feel more spoiled than beautiful shop furniture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Very nice, what are those red guys in the corners of the case? Corner squares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick N Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Very nice, what are those red guys in the corners of the case? Thanks, they are woodpecker box clamps M2. The cabinet is not glued up yet. So I use them to hold it together and square. They are adjustable for thickness and no other clamp is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Looking like a great start Rick. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 I almost bought those box clamps, but the reviews were horrid. How do you think they are? Cabinet looks good btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Caninet is looking great so far, Rick. I will be following along ! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick N Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 I almost bought those box clamps, but the reviews were horrid. How do you think they are? Cabinet looks good btw. They are one of those tools that I bought when I first started. They went into a drawer and I forgot about them till I saw a picture of somebody else using them. They definitely work but It is hard to see if the joint is actually closed since they cover it up. I also think the adjustment is awkward as you have to use an Alan key to adjust for thickness. I would not buy them again as I think the rockler clamp it assembly squares would be much more flexible. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick N Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 Got the sides done yesterday and frame. Nothing is glued up yet as I still have to plane and sand all the surfaces. I started cutting the grooves for the panel and decided I didn't want to use router because the 1/4 bit is way to big for the 1/4 plywood, and I don't have the undersized bits. So I used my tablesaw thin Kerf blade using two passes. Of course I messed up one of the good pieces and now it is way too wide. So I spent the rest of the night looking at the veritas small plow plane. I just really don't like using the router for grooves. Just feels like the setup never is very accurate and takes to long for small amounts of work. It is hard to justify $275 for something I already can do! Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 That is really coming along now Rick. For edge grooves a router plane suffers from the same problems an electric router does; stable support surface area and an edge guide. When I get caught having to route an edge where I can't bring the part to the tool I clamp additional stock to the keeper to create a larger bearing surface. Good call on using the tablesaw. Just rip a piece of scrap and glue it into the too-large groove. Then re-cut a good groove as before. Grooves with a router are very quick and easy at the router table. Undersize router bits are nice to have but, the difference in thicknesses of ply make them only partially useful. I often use the tablesaw when grooving for sheet goods. Stopped grooves are another story. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick N Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 For edge grooves a router plane suffers from the same problems an elevtric router does; stable support surface area and an edge guide. When I get caught having to route an edge where I can't bring the part to the tool I clamp additional stock tothe keeper to create a larger bearing surface. Good call on using the tablesaw. Just rip a piece of scrap and glue it into the too-large groove. Then re-cut a good groove as before. Grooves with a router are very quick and easy at the router table. Undersize router bits are nice to have but, the difference in thicknesses of ply make them only partially useful. I often use the tablesaw when grooving for sheet goods. Stopped grooves are another story. Thanks, great advice! My tablesaw doesn't take a dado blade so I have always avoided using it but when it worked it was perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaziri Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 The cabinet looks great. Also like the choice of lumber; can't beat walnut. Watching with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick N Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Made some progress today and got the panels in. I am prepping all the panels before I glue them up and I am getting terrible tear out from my smoothing plane. So I sharpened it and still having the same issue. I know I am going with the grain and taking really light passes. Unfortunately I just went the sanding route and went through the grits and filled the tear out with timbermate. Let me know anybody has any suggestions. I really hate sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Yeah that is some nasty tear out... unfortunately, sometimes there is just no getting it gone without a tooling change. If I'm getting tear out I can't control with a smoother, I move up to the LAJP at 38° the 50° edge does pretty good. I'm a pretty huge sanding hater myself and I threw some money at the problem recently. The new EC sander and midi made me feel a lot better * ) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Two words: card scraper. No tear out and less sanding. You just have to make sure you've properly sharpened it first and it will make you life a lot easier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 8 hours ago, Rick N said: I know I am going with the grain Not so sure about that. I wouldn't expect to get that kind of tearout planing with the grain unless I swapped out my plane iron for a butter knife...even then probably not. Are you sure you know which direction you were supposed to be planing? Walnut is a pretty agreeable species under the knife and I don't see any weird grain or figure that would otherwise cause a problem. I imagine you were indeed planing uphill. Also make sure your iron is sharp. And only sharp is sharp. "Kind of sharp" is not good enough. PS...don't use Timbermate to fill tearout. Either fix the tearout or toss the boards into the burn pile and consider it the cost of a learning experience. You're gonna hate the way that looks, I promise. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 I have very limited experience with a smoother but is your mouth tight on it? Also I would try planing in the other direction to see if it work better. Every once in a while I'll have a board that does better going against the grain rules for jointing and planing - don't know why but it just happened this weekend. I'm with Eric that Timbermate would look like crap. You could try epoxy mixed with sawdust but my guess it won't look that great either and I surely wouldn't use your plane after that. Epoxy with sawdust works decent for small repairs and yours look pretty wide and will probably stick out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 1 hour ago, Eric. said: PS...don't use Timbermate to fill tearout. Either fix the tearout or toss the boards into the burn pile and consider it the cost of a learning experience. You're gonna hate the way that looks, I promise. Sad experience has taught me that filler is almost always the worst remedy. Leaving a gaping gouge usually looks better than filler. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 I agree with the others something is amiss here you should not be getting that kind of tear out from a smother especially on walnut. I would look at the posts above for some good advice on what to check. Cabinet is coming along great. Take the time to figure this out it will be the difference between a nice cabinet and an amazing cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 First off, that thing is looking great. I would have to see the end grain to know if you are really going with the grain or not but, I doubt it. If all else fails increase your iron angle. I have a 50 degree that I keep around for my BU smoother for difficult material. However, I don't really see anything (fomr here) about that grain that looks difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick N Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Two words: card scraper. No tear out and less sanding. You just have to make sure you've properly sharpened it first and it will make you life a lot easier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks everybody for your suggestions. I started with a card scraper and just keep getting sawdust. For some reason I can't get a scraper to work. I just tried it again and can't get shavings. I will keep watching videos to get it right. The plane is definitely sharp as that is the first thing I did after the problem. I am using pmv11 blade with mk2 at 4000 and 8000 to a Mirror finish plus the back. I was thinking about buying the scraper blade for the LAJP is anybody using that? I will try the other direction for the grain and update tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 It is easy to see which end of the tearout is deepest. Looks like you should be planing into the camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 58 minutes ago, Rick N said: The plane is definitely sharp as that is the first thing I did after the problem. I am using pmv11 blade with mk2 at 4000 and 8000 to a Mirror finish plus the back. You told us "smoothing plane" but didn't mention if it was a bench plane or low angle. If you have a low angle smoother and you're using the bevel angle that comes stock from the factory, that would be the culprit. A low angle blade is good for end grain and not much else. You'll need to buy a second blade or grind a much higher bevel to tackle long grain without tearout. If you're using a bevel down bench plane, disregard the above comments. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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