Doomwolf Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Hi all. I have a half-can of shellac that will expire in a few months, and a bunch of scrap pieces that are never going to be turned into anything useful. I am getting a couple of weeks vacation this month, and was thinking of doing some finishing experiments with them because hey, it beats throwing them out. I've read a couple articles about making your own toners and stains by taking shellac, oil, or varnish and mixing in dye or pigment. The articles talk about getting said dye or pigment from art supply stores, but they're comfortably vague about what you should actually be looking for on the shelves. Has anyone done this before, and if so, could they offer some product advice? I'd like be able to spend some of my time off playing 'mad scientist' with the scrap pile. Plan B is to track down a professional finishing store (I know of a couple in town), but I'm not sure how kindly they look on a hobbyist asking for 4oz samples. Plan C is mail order. Really, I would like to be able to walk in somewhere and have a look before I put money down. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Lee Valley sells dyes & pigments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Woodcraft sells Trans tint by me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted October 3, 2016 Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 Online I bought some transtint at veneersupplies.com, it was the cheapest place I saw. I actually haven't used it yet... bought it to play around with. For pigments, I've bought it from earthpigments.com The ones that say "lime stable" and "UV permanent" will tolerate more chemicals without changing color. I've used the pigments to make pigmented waxes, milk paint, custom stains, etc. A little goes a long way! Their ocher is even from the original ocher mines in France, which is kind of cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 3, 2016 Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 Get Transtint....all you really need. Expensive, but goes a long way. Mix it with water-alcohol-lacquer thinner to dye wood. Never found the need to make my own "pigmented stain." Typically, use the dye to enhance or influence a store bought stain. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 On 10/3/2016 at 0:43 PM, AceHoleInOne said: Get Transtint....all you really need. Expensive, but goes a long way. Mix it with water-alcohol-lacquer thinner to dye wood. Never found the need to make my own "pigmented stain." Typically, use the dye to enhance or influence a store bought stain. -Ace- I tried, briefly, to mimic Van Dyke Brown pigment with a dye - I didn't get it; too much red. My motivation was to find a way to more or less match existing house colors and still reveal the grain/figure in a fantastic slab. Have you been able to do that sort of thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 My local Sherwin Williams store carries a line of acetone-soluable wood dyes. Might be an option to check out in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 ML Campbell Microton acetone based dyes are wonderful. Best when sprayed. I thin them at least 50 % and use several thin coats to achieve the right level of color. Dries almost immediately . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 12 minutes ago, wdwerker said: ML Campbell Microton acetone based dyes are wonderful. Best when sprayed. I thin them at least 50 % and use several thin coats to achieve the right level of color. Dries almost immediately . Drying so quickly, does the dye penetrate at all our sit on top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 It soaks in but flash dries. Acetone is the new favorite solvent. Doesn't mess with the ozone so the EPA is happy. Still need masks and flammable precautions etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 On 10/29/2016 at 10:51 PM, Pondhockey said: I tried, briefly, to mimic Van Dyke Brown pigment with a dye - I didn't get it; too much red. My motivation was to find a way to more or less match existing house colors and still reveal the grain/figure in a fantastic slab. Have you been able to do that sort of thing? First, go purchase a color wheel. That will give you a reference how to influence colors. Then it's a matter of playing. I like to use those little plastic jello-shot cups. Remember, you don't want to achieve your final color in one shot. Always mix your dye a little weaker, apply your dye with multiple coats to zero in on what you like. Keep a count of how many drops of dye to solvent/water or whatever your using. Then mix up from there in larger quantities. In the beginning it takes time matching colors, Once you learn, it's really very simple...after all, how many shades of brown is there really? Also, you have to take into consideration the tone of the wood your dying. Some woods sapwood are more white, some are beige, heart wood color.....you get the idea. Good luck. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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