Rex Edgar Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Recently, I responded to a member asking about the INCRA I-box jig. I responded that I found the jig fussy and difficult to set up with satisfactory results. A few other member responded with positive reviews, so I decide to give the jig a third try. I spent the better part of an afternoon and still had joints either too loose or too tight. I decided to try a shop made jig with a joint that would be 1/2". I milled almost perfect sliders out of walnut and I had a near perfect 1/2" x 1/2" piece milled for the spacer. I waited for all the parts to dry (glue) and proceeded to make two matching corners of a box. They are visually quite good looking. However they are just a mite too tight. I can force them together, but I fear that I will toot be able to get them apart to reassemble them without damage to the fingers. Is there a way to relieve a minute amount of space with out beginning over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Chamfer the edges, but below where they show, and take a sharp chisel and peel a tad off the tightest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Get a set of the brass measuring bars from Rockler to do your setup. I've never made box joints on the ts, but they are invaluable when I cut them on the router table. And your joints will probably have a much better fit on hardwood than the ply. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 I need a better fit on the ply before I make expensive sawdust. I'm using a dado stack and I'm a newbie as far as experience. Will adding shims relieve the binding as I can't adjust the jig at this point.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Then use any kind of solid board as your test piece. I've found that the ds just doesn't make a very clean cut in ply. JMO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Try it in the AM before changing width of dado, Thanks, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Take a square to your pieces and verify that your table saw is cutting plumb vertical. The pic makes me suspect that it isn't, but it is difficult to account for the lens you might be using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Is that cut the actual width of tbe dado stack? If so, I'd suggest adding a paper shim in the stack, and adjust the jig with a bit of painter's tape. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 49 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Is that cut the actual width of tbe dado stack? If so, I'd suggest adding a paper shim in the stack, and adjust the jig with a bit of painter's tape. Need more visuals..... Can you provide a few more detail..................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 2 minutes ago, Rex Edgar said: Need more visuals..... Can you provide a few more detail..................... Does your Dado stack have shims? Many come with .005, .010, .020 shims for widening the cut. Painters tape would be applied to one side of the reference pin to move the last cut tighter or looser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Kit has shims, if shims are added does that increase the fit beteween joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Shims make the dado wider. Tape on the sled's guide pin makes it wider to match. Judging by the photo you posted, your dado needs just the tiniest bit more width. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 I understand the frustration of having a tool (the i-Box) that others seem to be able to get to work but, that fights me at every turn. This was a good description of my ability to sharpen almost anything at one point. The i-Box is a lot easier than sharpening and I would recommend spending just a bit more time with it. There is some sort of "ah-ha" moment that is eluding you. Making the slip-fit over the dual pins a bit too snug during initial setup will trip you up. The initial setup of the jig affects everything else you do. Fall short on the initial setup and the thing is a boat anchor. Not clamping your stock for each cut can foul things up if you lack the "grip of steel" that some folks have. Some 220 grit applied to the backer board can help as well. I picked up a small hand screw at Harbor Freight for a few bucks. A 1/4 twist of one handle loosens things for moving to the next position. A 1/4 turn the other way clamps things securely and I make the cut; rinse and repeat. I also added a second runner as I found wider fingers (removing more stock) could cause misalignment due to feed resistance. A good backer is also essential. The backer can be slid one way or the other to provide many fresh surfaces. If you make them per the manual they can also be flipped further extending their usefulness. Once properly setup (this is the challenge), it is pretty fool proof. I just added the second runner since that worked better for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 I have a 2 blade box joint set (1/4" & 3/8") from Freud that I use for making box joints. They work just fine but, they were always a bit tight so, I started putting a shim (business card w/ 5/8" hole in it) between the blades and "Bob's your Uncle!" perfect every time! If this makes the joints too loose for your taste, use the metal shims from another dado set. Quote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Thanks, you hit the solution. I probably should have read the 'destructions' more closely. I am slowly getting the width dialed in. Not certain about the tape on the guide pin. If the width is incrementaly increased and there is still a snug fit on the guide pin, will I need the tape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 3, 2016 Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 Maybe I misunderstood. On a basic shop-made jig, the tape would help the fingers to snugly fit the notches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted October 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 4 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Maybe I misunderstood. On a basic shop-made jig, the tape would help the fingers to snugly fit the notches. If I am folllowing you, as the dado stack gets dialed in to get the best fit between joints and allow for the glue, the notches may become sloppy on the guide pin. This is my deepest foray into getting exactly the width out of the ds. Other times there has just been a 1/2" or 3/4" channel for some shelves, so I am still feeling my way around. Yesterday I was able add three different shims (one at a time) and free up the joints a bit. I think allowing for glue they a still a smudge on the tight side. Once I am happ, I'll make a note on the jig what Chipper's and shimarrangemnet works got this particular jig. Thanks again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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