Supermax 19/38


Gixxerjoe04

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1 minute ago, cstandi1 said:

I find the grits under 120 plenty useful for flattening large boards that wont fit through a planer. It takes a little while longer, but better than ripping a nice board just to be able to fit it on the jointer.

That's what I've been doing for the last two hours to a walnut crotch.

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1 hour ago, Alan G said:

Sweet buy...and nice score on the sand paper!

Is the supermax 19-38 the same as the performax 16-32 just with a longer sanding drum or did they make some other mods/improvments?

From all reports there are several design changes in the areas of construction materials, dust collection, paper termination (clips) and bed drive system that removed or greatly lessened those areas of complaint.  They are still the supplier for many Performax parts. 

From their website:

"Formerly made under the Performax brand name, SuperMax Tools has continued to manufacture select larger models of drum and brush sanders in the US. We have also developed innovative changes to smaller models of drum sanders, releasing the award-winning 19-38 Drum Sander in 2011, and have continued to expand our product line."

The story of how some of the Performax folks negotiated the rights to certain sander models (or sizes, I forget) is pretty inspiring.  They kept the product line now known as Supermax, and the jobs of the folks who make them, here in the US. A worthy effort and a nice success story.

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Got new outlets ran for it and my dc so don't have to worry about kicking breakers anymore haha.  Also put the tables on, might still have to tweak them to make sure they're perfectly level.  Since the tables are aluminum they aren't dead flat like cast iron, hopefully that's not a big deal.  Of course having a baby, only had time to make sure everything worked, haven't got to run anything through it yet.  Of course I don't have anything wide enough and flat to run through it to check to see if the head and table are parallel.  Thought about running a piece of plywood through, would that be a dumb idea?  Or how would you all check it?

6DC40835-70CF-48AD-BFE3-75F2E2A1A611_zps

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I took a couple of 12" 2x's and trimmed off the edges to make them parallel and the same width on the ts. Then laid them on edge, one at each end of the drum, and adjusted the drum down to where it touched one or, hopefully both at the same.

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This is actually where a piece of melamine/particleboard is useful. You should be able to get pieces at a big box store. 12 X 36 should be plenty. Use a pair of calipers to check the thickness at all 4 corners and along all 4 edges before you sand it. I would lower the drum (not running) onto the center of the board (sideways on the conveyer until you can spin the drum but feel some resistance. Turn on the conveyor with out starting the drum to remove the board. Start the dust collection, drum and conveyor at 1/4 speed and feed the board in sideways. Measure the sanded section w the calipers, then rotate it 180 and sand the other half.

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Because I'm doing exotic tonewood in wide, thin, and expensive pieces I wanted mine as close to perfect as I could get it.  I ran a piece of Maple about 2" thick and about 2" wide (doesn't matter) through my planer and made certain it was square.  Then I took the sandpaper off the drum and placed the Maple under the closed end.  I then lowered the drum to a few thousandths off the Maple and used feeler gauges to get the measurement on the gap.  Once I had that I moved the piece of Maple to the open end and did the same thing.  I adjusted the bed until both sides were the same or within a thousandth or so.

Now when I run a board through it's the same anywhere on the drum.  I don't know if that's by the book or just a 'David way' but I'm satisfied with my results and it didn't take long to accomplish.

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12 minutes ago, difalkner said:

Because I'm doing exotic tonewood in wide, thin, and expensive pieces I wanted mine as close to perfect as I could get it.  I ran a piece of Maple about 2" thick and about 2" wide (doesn't matter) through my planer and made certain it was square.  Then I took the sandpaper off the drum and placed the Maple under the closed end.  I then lowered the drum to a few thousandths off the Maple and used feeler gauges to get the measurement on the gap.  Once I had that I moved the piece of Maple to the open end and did the same thing.  I adjusted the bed until both sides were the same or within a thousandth or so.

Now when I run a board through it's the same anywhere on the drum.  I don't know if that's by the book or just a 'David way' but I'm satisfied with my results and it didn't take long to accomplish.

Pretty much how I did it, too. Mine is holding +/- .0015" on stock down to .030". That's as thin as I've done, so far. Really, really happy with it!

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