lewisc Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I'll do my best to convert to imperial for this one. I've been asked to make a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/12-x-Paper-Holder/dp/B00AOSMRYK?tag=scrapbookingeasyproducts-20 but a bit bigger. I don't have a dado stack and my saw can't take one. The overall size will be 29" (735mm) tall by 18" (450mm) wide by 12" (300mm) deep to hold 10 shelves of A3 sheets of paper. I made one to hold sand paper but it was easy as I only had to do one pass one the tablesaw to slide some thin plywood in. Because I'll be using 1/4" (6mm) ply for the shelves, I'll need a setup to accurately cut multiple slots an even distance apart to slot the thicker plywood in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Router table would be an option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDrow Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Or a handheld router and a straight edge on a large sheet if you are careful... then rip said large sheet into two pieces so that they match. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted October 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 13 minutes ago, Lester Burnham said: You could make a piece that hugs your fence that's 1/8th wide on the blade side. Line up your first cut, run it through, add that piece to the fence and run it through again. 5 minutes ago, MisterDrow said: Or a handheld router and a straight edge on a large sheet if you are careful... then rip said large sheet into two pieces so that they match. I have a router but no router table. Both of these could work - or a combo of cutting the large sheet on the saw and then ripping in half. I didn't think of that. I was planning on doing individual pieces. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I have done grooves like this with a hand held router and straight edge. The router mounted to a plate which in turn rode in a T track in the straight edge. It works, but you have to be every careful that the straight edge is secure as it can move when your attention is elsewhere. http://www.eemersontool.com/c-series The shelves don't need to fit tight for an application like this, usually they can be slid out. In which case you have a little margin for error on your slot size. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byegge Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 37 minutes ago, MisterDrow said: Or a handheld router and a straight edge on a large sheet if you are careful... then rip said large sheet into two pieces so that they match. Was going to be my suggestion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Have you seen a box joint jig? Do you have two saw blades? Mount the two saw blades side by side, they will act like a dado. Make a strip of wood as wide as the "dado" and lay it out parallel with the saw kerf as far apart as you want your opening, then make your first cut, drop that kerf over the strip, make your second cut, move it over the strip . Do that till you have as many as you need. And it's reusable. just like a shop built box joint jig! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted October 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 22 minutes ago, RichardA said: Have you seen a box joint jig? Do you have two saw blades? Mount the two saw blades side by side, they will act like a dado. Make a strip of wood as wide as the "dado" and lay it out parallel with the saw kerf as far apart as you want your opening, then make your first cut, drop that kerf over the strip, make your second cut, move it over the strip . Do that till you have as many as you need. And it's reusable. just like a shop built box joint jig! https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/dado.html Like this? I think I get what you mean. I've got an old blade kicking around somewhere. I'll do some more reading on this one before trying it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I'm doing something similar, but larger scale. I'd start with this sort of clamp for the straight edge and then go ahead and back it up with additional clamps, braces behind. Assuming you are pulling in a bit while sliding horizontal with your router, you should only really be worried about movement inward, not outward, though you set up a second guide on the other side to stop any accidental errant outward drift. As others side, make one wide board and rip it and at least any errors will be consistent and it will still come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Immortan D Posted October 20, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Indexing your cuts works great with a handheld router. You need a quick jig, check this video: 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I've pieces simalar to that.Everything can be done in a tablesaw with a sled. Use a stop one the outside for the first few cuts then a key screwed down on the sled for the rest. Same way box joints are made. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 1 hour ago, lewisc said: I have a router but no router table. Both of these could work - or a combo of cutting the large sheet on the saw and then ripping in half. I didn't think of that. I was planning on doing individual pieces. Thanks. Cutting the grooves and then crosscutting the blank to yield two halves will assure good vertical positioning of the grooves. The router jig shown by Immortan D would be a good solution as you would only have to make one slot on the tablesaw (two or three passes depending on blade kerf) and then use the jig to run the balance of the cuts. Stacking two FTG blades with a spacer could be another option. Spacer could be very thin plastic, fiberboard or even pieces of paper to achieve the width. Remember, you would only have to make one cut with this setup. The router / jig would take care of the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted October 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 8 hours ago, Immortan D said: Indexing your cuts works great with a handheld router. You need a quick jig, check this video: This looks awesome. I think I've found the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Thanks for the tips and video. I was able to cut a piece of timber that I could fit onto my small router that had a 1/4 piece I could reference of the edge and then the cut channels. Worked like a treat. I did come across one problem though...When I clamped the pieces to join it all together, I had cut too deep with the router and the sides bowed and buckled, even with light pressure. . I'll either have to use thicker material or make shallower passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Can you not get 1/8" 3mm plywood in Oz? I have made similar things using a standard 1/8" thick table saw blade in conjunction with a crosscut sled. My table saw doesn't take dado stacks either (it's a European one). If they have to be 1/4" 6mm grooves (dado) then you could do like AJ3 mentioned and use an indexing key in a crosscut sled to produce the 1/4" wide dado in 2 passes. Clean up with a router plane. Another alternative is to cut 1/8" grooves and then cut a matching rabbet (rebate) on the 1/4" plywood to allow it to mate into the groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted October 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 6 minutes ago, TerryMcK said: Can you not get 1/8" 3mm plywood in Oz? I have made similar things using a standard 1/8" thick table saw blade in conjunction with a crosscut sled. My table saw doesn't take dado stacks either (it's a European one). If they have to be 1/4" 6mm grooves (dado) then you could do like AJ3 mentioned and use an indexing key in a crosscut sled. Another alternative is to cut 1/8" grooves and then cut a matching rabbet (rebate) on the 1/4" plywood to allow it to mate into the groove. I can get 3mm ply but the shelves needs to hold a few hundred sheets of paper. I figure having thicker ply will give more strength and less bow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 OK no probs. Have a look at sagulator to help calculate. I don't think it would bow that much. It'll save you quite a lot of time if you find it doesn't bow as much as you think. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ 5 pounds of A3 paper will only sag .05" or 50 thou on the dimensions you have stated for 1/8" thick stock. You could also glue a small strip on the underside of each shelf at the front edge to make it up to 1/4" thick. This would help in stiffening 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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