Chud Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 As part of the renovations in my front room we will be fitting a floating solid oak mantel/beam above the fireplace (mantel dimensions approx 1520 x 150 x 150mm). The beam has been seasoned for 3-5 years.I want the fixing to be hidden - so in terms of mounting I'd played around with a few ideas such as creating tenons that could be fitted to the wall to fit into mortices in the back of the beam locked in place by a peg driven up from the underside of the mantel...or a french cleat fitted to the wall and a corresponding recess routed into the back of the beam, I'd lock the cleat with a few screws driven again from the underside. In the end (and as they're not expensive) I've ordered 4 of these as they're probably the quickest solution (with a bit of construction adhesive on the back of the beam to keep it on the rods) http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/p/concealed-shelf-supports/concealed-shelf-support-for-installation-into-woodwork-or-masonry-walls/11616/5956 (they're rated for 20kgs/44lbs each and the mantel should weigh ~30kg according to the supplier).However it occurred to me that this may not be the best/fastest/easiest way of doing this so I thought I'd ask what you would do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 I've seen it done with a similar method and it should work. You might consider andgling the rods up by 10 degrees so that the weight of the mantle will push the beam towards the wall 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 I've done the cleat and it worked out fine. The hefele fastener looks good.Finding studs above a fireplace can be tricky. Aj 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 I've used those floating shelf supports several times in my home, they work great. I use my doweling jig to get the holes drill perfectly centered and straight. The hardest part is getting the little brackets mounted so the rods come out straight and level with one another. In general the fit is so snug and they are quite long,so I've never even needed adhesive, but a mantel might see more pushing/pulling, etc, so adhesive might be good insurance.Give it a dry fit and see if you still need think you need it. I've only done two rods at a time, using 4 would increase the challenge of getting things perfectly aligned, but should be do-able. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chud Posted October 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 On 10/22/2016 at 11:25 PM, Aj3 said: Finding studs above a fireplace can be tricky. Thankfully not an issue in this case as the chimney breast is bricks and mortar! On 10/22/2016 at 11:27 PM, Isaac Gaetz said: I've used those floating shelf supports several times in my home, they work great. I use my doweling jig to get the holes drill perfectly centered and straight. The hardest part is getting the little brackets mounted so the rods come out straight and level with one another. In general the fit is so snug and they are quite long,so I've never even needed adhesive, but a mantel might see more pushing/pulling, etc, so adhesive might be good insurance.Give it a dry fit and see if you still need think you need it. I've only done two rods at a time, using 4 would increase the challenge of getting things perfectly aligned, but should be do-able. Yes this is the tricky bit - given the weight as well! I will probably create slots for the rods to sit in rather than just drill holes (either with router in a jig or with an auger bit and chiselling) - this way it will allow for a bit of longitudinal shrinkage as well. I will probably create a template from card/ply to get the alignment correct as you're absolutely right in saying the alignment could be a pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chud Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Another question on this - the horizontal slots I'm going to make in the back of the beam - what's the best way to make these? I'd use my plunge router but the slots need to be 112mm deep so I guess it's time to get the drill out and bore some overlapping holes and chisel out the rest - what would you go for: Classic auger style bit New style auger bit e.g. Irwin blue groove (actually would be an armeg wood beaver) Forstner bit Or something else?? Obviously spade ends are out of the picture as they'll chatter as soon as the hole overlaps. I don't have a stand drill so this will be done 'freehand' with a cordless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Probably an auger. Forstners are pretty difficult to keep straight through a deep hole using a hand drill. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I wouldn't use a forestner, they can't get the wood chips out and will overheat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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