ArtK Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 I have an alder sled style headboard that I left in storage over the winter (in the Pacific NW) and one side of the laminated frame has separated (see photos). I have tried applying rags soaked in hot water in the separation and then clamping, hoping that might close the joint a bit, but no success. It looks like the initial laminations were both glued and secured with tiny brads. I don't think that gluing and clamping will hold the joint closed in the long run because of the tension in the wood. My current thoughts are to either use wood screws and glue or to cut small kerfs with a coping saw to help reduce some of the tension before gluing. Either way I will need to take care to refinish as best I can to hide either screw holes or kerf cuts. I would appreciate any thoughts as to how best to effect repairs. Thanks, Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ..Kev Posted October 24, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 If the joint closes tightly, I'd consider using epoxy and clamps to get it closed up. Welcome to the forums.. There's a few of us here from the PNW 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkrusen Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Yeah the first thing I'd try would be to simply reglue and clamp it. Try using either epoxy or Unbind 800. Those glues are commonly used for laminations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 If you can shape a pair of cauls so the insides match the curve of the post and use "C" clamps starting at bottom of the split and then work your way up, using epoxy as suggested above I think you can avoid the screws. The "C" clamps provide a lot of clamping force and the cauls help spread the pressure. It might take a number of clamps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Just shows to go ya! You certainly don't get this much attention as a newbie on any other woodworking forum. Welcome Art! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 All good advice above. Welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtK Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Thank you all for the warm welcome and advice. I had made cauls (covered in socks in photo) and can clamp them up though I think I will still have a bit of separation at the top. I have not worked with epoxies in wood joints before, so this is new territory for me. Any specific thoughts on tinting or dyeing the epoxy to minimize a possibly unsightly gap at the top? Thanks, Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Clear epoxy will probably be fine, but if there is a gap that your clamps won't close, epoxy can be mixed with an assortment of colorants and fillers. Sanding dust from the same type of wood is a common one. Transtint dye is often used as well. I have used metallic powders where a contrasting line is desired. Some people use paints, but I recommend against anything latex-based. In my experience, it prevents the epoxy from fully curing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 You need to reshape your cauls. As it is, there is no way you can make that look presentable. Anything you fill that gap with is going to look just like filler, and the shape of the piece will have been changed so you'll have to do some reshaping & then refinishing. I'm not sure cauls is the way to go here. A bunch of small clamps & some very thin plywood to protect the piece will do a better job of closing that gap right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 On 10/24/2016 at 3:55 PM, TIODS said: If the joint closes tightly, I'd consider using epoxy and clamps to get it closed up. Welcome to the forums.. There's a few of us here from the PNW This would be my approach. I'd also consider a mechanical fastener at the top of the piece, counterbored and then plugged with a dowel - could use a darker wood to make it more decorative, and then do the same on the other side since it's better than 50/50 you have the same exposure on the other side of the headboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I would get the wood wet with hot water and steam. Try to work a small thin scrap of wood down halfway through the separation. The goal is to over bend the wood so when it springs back after drying. Your closer to your shape. Then simply re-glue. Throw the sock out. Clamp using cauls. Your going to need more than one clamp. You need clamping pressure and that may dent the wood. Don't worry about the dent, it will steam back out after your repairs are done. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Agree with above, you need more clamps to get this to close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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