Popular Post bushwacked Posted October 26, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 So after an amazing gift showed up on my porch yesterday from some super amazing guys, I knew it was time to get to work and give it the proper living area in my shop. I dont know just yet how I exactly want this to look, but I do have some ideas. I dont have much free time to work on it until Friday so until then I can work on my drawing and get that part figured out at least. I do know I want some storage .. maybe 2-3 shelved ... and possibly a place to slide back the lumber. It also needs casters so I can tuck it away when needed. I am thinking a love child between the below images: @TIODS Drum Sander setup ... Overall size will most likely be just big enough to hold the 735 on top. I dont need a monstrosity floating around the shop. Going to work on a few sketches now and see what really sticks. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cochese Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Man, that drum sander stand is just the business @TIODS. Interesting to see what you come up with, for now I'm forced to store it upside down on a cart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 My stand is a 36" wide x 23" deep cabinet. Very much like a kitchen base cabinet with 2 doors and 2 rollout shelves in each drawer. I added 3 side mounted casters that raise the cabinet if I need to move it for longer pieces. Why 3? It will never be tippy if the floor is even. 2 on one end of the cabinet and 1 on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 You don't need a place to slide back the lumber. Those two metal strips on it's top is made for that. Find a used kitchen cabinet that has a drawer or two and mount it on that. Put locking casters on the cabinet and your good to go! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 When I make mine I plan to have it's bed at 37-1/2" to match the (future, if I ever finish it) workbench. I also plan to raise up the base on my table saw so its top is at the same height. I don't have a ton of room in my shop for infeed and outfeed tables so I think I'm going to make any surface an infeed/ outfeed table. Same with the miter stand if I ever get around to building one. (if anyone see's an issue in this thinking let me know as I'm still a noob) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 I'm 6'2" and 37 1/2 worked well for me at the workbench... Lifting all your tools to that height is going to be a PITA.. the average height for most tools is around 34" to 35". I tried raising my tools, and it was a real Pain to do and keep accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 12 minutes ago, RichardA said: I'm 6'2" and 37 1/2 worked well for me at the workbench... Lifting all your tools to that height is going to be a PITA.. the average height for most tools is around 34" to 35". I tried raising my tools, and it was a real Pain to do and keep accuracy. I'm about the same height, maybe just under 6'2". That's good to hear that height works for you. I played around with blocks of wood on an old workbench and that height felt good to work on. Luckily, I currently only have one tool that has a permanent height and that is my table saw. I'm thinking I can shim it up with a piece of plywood in its mobile base. May have to add a rim of 2x under the plywood or something. It is just about a half inch under my bench now (it's just my benchtop sitting on saw horses. I'll finish it someday I promise lol) but it works well with my panel sled for cutting long material. Thats what gave me the idea. I've been just pulling the table saw away from the wall at an angle to give the clearance needed to make the cut without eating up too much floor space. Then I roll it back against the wall when I'm done. I could see getting a jointer to the same height not being worth the trouble, but I don't have one yet. Nor do I have a bandsaw so that would be another bridge to cross when I get there. I'm not sure how flat my floor is in the shop either (its pretty small, about 12x20) but even if the tools were a little bit above the workbench that would probably work out ok. Better than the bench being just higher and stock running into the face of it. Sorry about the hijack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted October 26, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Although it now lives at dear old dad's, a flip top stand was one of the best shop made stands I ever had. It now holds his DW735 and a spindle sander. In my day it held several things; here's three ;-) 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Gee, That is cool. Do you have an axel type device that goes from one side to the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 2 hours ago, K Cooper said: Gee, That is cool. Do you have an axel type device that goes from one side to the other? Sorry for the threadjack bushwacked; hopefully this helps you too ;-) The axle is made from two 5" white oak dowels on each side. I added a second thickness of 3/4" ply as a sort of reinforcement block. The dowel was waxed with Gulf Wax (like you might keep handy to wax your plane soles during use) about a decade ago and still spins nicely. The dowel penetrates the flip-top frame which is around 1-1/4" thick (plus 3/4" of ply on each side). One of the screws at each axle location that holds the removable top surface in place also retains the dowel: I made one of the top's surfaces removable to allow access to change t-nut or through-bolt patterns for different tools over time (a lucky decision as it turned out). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 No worries at all!! This is great stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Got a rough drawing up before I head to CAD tomorrow. I am one 18"x10" piece from getting all this from making it all from 1 sheet of plywood. I may have to rework the design a little. Or just buy 2 sheets of plywood for future use and take a random 18x10 chunk out haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Better opt for another piece of ply unless the drawing shown is less the kerf cut on all pieces? 21+21+6=48 without the cuts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Better opt for another piece of ply unless the drawing shown is less the kerf cut on all pieces? 21+21+6=48 without the cuts. Well I was thinking of using the left overs as the drawers. They are going to get an oak face on them so I don't think the drawers being a tad smaller than 6" will be a huge deal ... right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Totaly agree. Just wanted to make sure you kept the cuts into account. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Totaly agree. Just wanted to make sure you kept the cuts into account. Haha. Ya it has been awhile since I have done a project from a drawing and forgot about kerf when I started though. Thanks for checking on me though I gotta get back in the mindset! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Something to consider when you buy your ply is to get the pre-finished stuff. My place here carries both birch and maple pre-finished and they are all that much more the just plane old plywood. Its better to work with looks good and you don't have to waste time putting finish on shop furniture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Chet, I've never used the pre-finished. How does that affect the glue-ups? I hope that's not a dumb question that I should have thought thru? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I use dominos to assemble cases using prefinished ply. You could also rabbet the corner joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I don't mind finishing it. Not a lot to it for this one. Since it is shop I was thinking pocket holes just to get it together fast. I don't have a dado set or a flat cut blade to make the rabbets easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Stepping out on a limb here. Can you provide an illustration of rabbiting a corner joint? I think I know. But say the bottom of his cabinet is 1" or so above the bottom of his sides and you cut a dado in the sides to receive it, will the glue hold with the bottom being pre-finished? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Ken, the edges are just like regular ply so if you cut a dado or rabbet you are gluing to bare wood on the edge and the dado or rabbet. I haven't had anything come undone... but I may walk out there to the shop one day and find everything in a pile on the floor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted October 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 first time using sketchup ... I had to stop at putting drawers on because for whatever reason it would fill in the whole drawer section. Not sure what I am doing wrong but it is very annoying! I am going to tinker with it some more but had to take a break because it is angering me. I did not figure out yet how to add 3" casters to it, but I am still looking into it ... so for now it is casterless but they will be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 33 minutes ago, bushwacked said: first time using sketchup ... I had to stop at putting drawers on because for whatever reason it would fill in the whole drawer section. Not sure what I am doing wrong but it is very annoying! I am going to tinker with it some more but had to take a break because it is angering me. I did not figure out yet how to add 3" casters to it, but I am still looking into it ... so for now it is casterless but they will be there. A lot times when I create a project in Sketchup, I don't fuss with a lot of detail because the actual measurements come from the piece itself. It can all look great in a drawing but, that doesn't always translate that way in the actual piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 41 minutes ago, bushwacked said: first time using sketchup ... Sketchup has many best practices that are not readily apparent & this can cause big problems down the road if they are not followed. A flip cart for my planer & sander is high on my list of shop projects as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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