Chainplate Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 We have a maple bar in our kitchen that after 15 years needed refinishing. I stripped it down, sanded, wiped it down with acetone and proceeded to apply a coat of Behlen Rockhard Table Top Urethane Varnish that was thinned 50% with paint thinner. However, now it won't dry. The weather is warm (about 75°F with pretty low humidity) and I have a ceiling fan in the adjoining room working at a low speed. There are patches where it has dried but most of it looks like the varnish was applied just a few minutes ago. If I thinned this too much, what do I do now? What if it won't dry at all? Do I try to remove what's still there with rags soaked in paint thinner? Do I just let it sit there for the next few days? Weeks? Months? Could be a problem as we're expecting 20 people for Thanksgiving! Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks. By the way, Happy Holidays! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 Rags never go well in my experience. I will let guys that know the chem better respond, but if you remove it scrape the wet off. Rags make a big mess unless you have the exact solvent to liquefy the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 I'm not familiar with that particular finish and I don't use paint thinner to dilute my varnishes (allegedly paint thinner is "dirtier" than mineral spirits and naphtha). I'd wipe down the surface with mineral spirits, then simply wait. Sometimes it takes longer than you might expect for a variety of reasons, but usually it does eventually dry. I usually wait 24 hours between coats of varnish even though often it's dry to the touch in a few hours. You didn't tell us how long you've been waiting to begin with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 How long has it been? The first coats of my oil/varnish blend can go three days or more before I am ready to add the final coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 Sounds like an incompatible solvent. I'd lean toward removing the finish, wiping it down with the solvent recommended for cleanup, and follow the manufacturer's directions from the can, EXACTLY. If that still doesn't work, you can call their customer service for advice. Many places won't help you with "off-label" applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chainplate Posted October 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 Thanks for all the replies. The instructions on the can of varnish that I'm using says to use either paint thinner or mineral spirits but it doesn't say to what ratio. The guy at the store where I bought it said to mix the first coat to 50%, which is what I did. Hopefully the photo will give you a clue. It's supposed to be a satin finish. This is 24 hours after the application Thanks again for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 The picture is worth a thousand words. I don't think you completely removed the old finish. Sand it all down again and start over in my opinion. Also, read the can. 50% is really aggressive and not appropriate for a lot of finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 That's what it looks like to me also. what kind of finish was there before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 How old was the finish in the can? Could be out of date. I haven't used Behlen finish in years but they are a good brand. Old finishes sometimes never dry right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 31, 2016 Report Share Posted October 31, 2016 I would stick with mineral spirits over paint thinner. I'm pretty certain the recipe for "paint thinner" varies by brand. Look for 'oderless mineral spirits'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chainplate Posted October 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2016 I'm not too good at this sort of thing so your replies are very helpful. Frankly, I don't know if I stripped the original finish (I think is was lacquer) properly or not. I used a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner and a very coarse 'Scotch-Brite' pad. I scrubbed with the home-made stripping mixture, changing it frequently, until rinsing the pad in it didn't cloud the mixture. Then I used a palm-sander with 80-grit sand paper (changing the sand paper often) for a long time - probably over an hour. Then I did the same thing with 150-grit. It looked stripped to me but what do I know? Should have I done something different? I had purchased the finish from Rockler just the day before but there's no manufacture date (or 'Best By' date) on the can. Nor is there any customer support number to call. Still grateful for your expert advice. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted October 31, 2016 Report Share Posted October 31, 2016 I believe Behlen Table Top varnish is a wiping varnish like Waterlox and Arm-R-Seal, and if so, doesn't need thinned. Also, urethane varnishes generally don't like to be applied over existing cured finishes including urethanes. Even though you stripped and sanded it, who know what was left behind to cause you problems? Your best bet would be the strip and sand again, apply a coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser SealCoat would be good), then apply your varnish according to the instructions. Dewaxed shellac sticks to about everything and everything sticks to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 31, 2016 Report Share Posted October 31, 2016 Like C Shaffer, I am of the mind, the old finish is still prevalent. Use a good gel chemical stripper containing Methylene Chloride and get too it. Sand the counter top through the grits. Can you tell us what type of wood that is. Not sure why they gave you the advice to thin the product? Being a counter top, counter tops need protection and that comes with finish applied full strength, straight from the can. When you thin the product, all your doing is reducing the films thickness containing all the goodies that build and protects the wood. Side note..... Is there a way to remove the counter top and get down and dirty, say in your garage? I think your not being as aggressive as you need to be, due to worrying about causing a mess in your kitchen. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 I'm genuinely surprised nobody has attempted to sell you on a festool sander, CT vac, and hat yet so congrats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 Who would do that Brendon. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted November 1, 2016 Report Share Posted November 1, 2016 Hmm... everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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