8 Foot Straight Edge


innotivity

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Looking to do a few one time projects with plywood.  Would love to do a version of the Paulk workbench so I can have a nice outfeed table for my Dewalt table saw.  Few other things would be nice to make, but nothing necessary for my main business.  Have a couple nice table saws to work with (Bosch 4000 and the Dewalt compact).  Also have a decent Makita circular saw and router.  

I can't really seem to justify purchasing a track saw and 8 foot track for ripping the plywood needed for the Paulk workbench, and maybe a project or two more.  I had an old aluminum straight edge, two piece, sitting around, and the joint in the middle just isn't right.  Tried a cheap, but highly rated straight edge from the Depot, but had same issue.  Looking at straight edges online, and reading the reviews, it looks like pretty much all of them just aren't straight.  With the pocket hole joints, I can't seem to get myself to half *** a cut and have a joint that's just not that strong.  Especially since I work a lot with large treated lumber.  Strong is good.  

Does anyone know of a good, very accurate 8 foot straight edge I can use as a circular saw guide? Or is it sort of a thing where the cost is high enough for a good one to start to justify a track saw?  

(I was thinking of using a bunch of rollers and the Bosch and really trying to get the fence aligned, but the fence is just pretty damn fidgety on the Bosch.  It's pretty well worn.)

I appreciate any help and input, Happy Holidays.  

Regards, 

DB

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I have a 8 ft level made by Stabila that I use for breaking down Plywood.I don't work with plywood very often so most of the time it's just up and out of the way.I think it set me back about 250$. 

I also have a 72 inch precision straight edge that I bought from suburban tools.It also need to be stored properly.A 8 ft steel straight edge will set you back 800$.

You should save up for a track saw if plywood in your future.They are very nice to have.Much better than my outdated ways.

https://www.subtool.com/st/se_steel_straight_edges.html

Aj

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I use a 6 foot level a LOT in my work.  A few times it was a bit short, and had to make do.  I wonder if getting a good 8 foot level for the few times I need it would be a sufficiently good enough straight edge.  

But then it comes down to again the whole price is getting into track saw range anyways.  For a potential half-***.  And like you said, if I stop using it, I can eBay it.  (I tell myself that...)

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The question I have about making your own straight edge is that for the fence piece to be straight, you need a straight edge to make it lol.  Chicken and Egg.  

That said, it seems like it is probably sufficient to make cuts straight enough to make solid pocket hole joints with other pieces of plywood.  I also like the idea of calling around to local machine shops to see if they have an 8 foot shear.  That would solve the chicken and egg thing for sure.  And if not, I assume when you used yours, you had to make a lot of joints and they were all solid, else you'd have trashed it.  

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2 minutes ago, innotivity said:

The question I have about making your own straight edge is that for the fence piece to be straight, you need a straight edge to make it lol.  Chicken and Egg.  

That said, it seems like it is probably sufficient to make cuts straight enough to make solid pocket hole joints with other pieces of plywood.  I also like the idea of calling around to local machine shops to see if they have an 8 foot shear.  That would solve the chicken and egg thing for sure.  And if not, I assume when you used yours, you had to make a lot of joints and they were all solid, else you'd have trashed it.  

I find the factory edge of 1/4" hardboard to be fairly straight (and cheap), just clamp it to the ply and use it as the guide. you can do this for about $30 vs the cost of a tracksaw. If cost is not an issue just get the track saw, buy once cry once. I 

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25 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Just make a straight edge I used one for years before my track saw made of 1/2" plywood. Here is a quick example but i'm sure there are many more out there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiSz7kPwFY0

I bought the BORA clamping straight edge with extension just to replace making one. His video is a reverse of why I bought one.....

25 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

 

 

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As a shipwright on the west coast, we did a lot of work on Lofting Boards. Basicly a full size drafting board for doing hull layouts. We made a 40 foot straight edge from 6mm baltic birch plywood. 3 layers, with staggered joints. Then stretched a piece of piano wire over the edge and tightened it with turnbuckles. Marked carefully and planed it as straight as possible. Then laid it back down and sighted down the length. did some touchup and we had a 40' straight edge +/- 1/32"  In an 8' length, you should be able to use the factory edge and use the piano wire to verify to within 1/64" If you need it more accurate than that you will have to use steel or aluminum.

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I don't understand why you don't just rip with your table saw.  Save the circular saw for the cross-cuts.  Plenty of 4' tracks, straight edges and clamping guides out there for reasonable prices.  If you're not ripping with your table saw, I'm not sure why you have one.

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Wow.  Literally not a bad suggestion.  Glad I posted. 

Regarding the table saw, the fence is pretty difficult to square up.  When you engage the lock mechanism you get a touch of wiggle.  When I rip dimensional lumber, it can get off a bit.  For my building its not a big deal since the finish is always custom sanded to fit.  But on a plywood rip, not sure if it is best.  Try getting a new fence?  Original is old as hell and I inherited the saw from someone else... I am prepared to hear that I am just stupid.  Would not he a first. 

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I have a new Dewalt compact.... was going to build the Paulk bench for it, so it is standless at the moment, and the fence just isnt straight.  

Sounds like I should just get it on a temp stand and pull the fence on it entirely then jig my 6 foot box level on it as a fence to rip a nice custom straight edge.  Then use that to finish the Paulk bench. 

The Bosch is a good saw, just worn as heck.  

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We had an extensive conversation about table saws recently that went poorly.  I know you didn't come here for table saw advice, but you'll get some anyway.  If the saws don't cut square, if the fences don't lock in securely, they desperately need adjustment or replacement.  A table saw with a fence that won't lock square is not a good table saw.  Maybe good enough for a construction site, not good enough for furniture making.

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Curious how straight any piece of aluminum will keep over an 8 foot span.  My guys can beat up most anything in minutes.  

Bleedinblue I appreciate all advice, asked for or not.  I never succeeded at anything by turning down knowledge.  Except marriage.  

 

The question I have is if a replacement fence is even worth it or will tighten things up so to speak.  The main saw I have is a well used Bosch 4100.  I have a brand new compact Dewalt I used for a day.  Any thoughts on the Bosch? 

(On a separate note, floor space and portability are not concerns. I work in shop only, not on job sites, and have ample space)

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One more question: What do you plan to build? If fine furniture is your goal, I would highly recommend stepping up to a cabinet-style tablesaw. The sturdy construction, higher power, and greater mass add up to a very superior cut over a portable job site saw. And the stable platform allows for attaching an excellent fence system.

Mr. Paulk's integrated saw & work tabke design is innovative, but aimed at those that require extreme portability. Sounds like it might not be the best fit for your needs.

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