Standalone circular saw vs track saw


bushwacked

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I was waiting on Black Friday to hopefully get a good sale for my makita circular saw I was planning on buying. However I got bored waiting and started researching tools... like always haha

So my uses would be breaking down sheet goods and making precise cuts on projects that may be too big for the tablesaw.

So my questions ...

What would be best for this out of the 2?

Is either one safer than the other?

Does a track saw excel at what I want it to do over the circular saw with a homemade zero clearance track?

Anything else I'm missing on why I should go one over the other?

Thanks!

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A few quick thoughts:

A track saw will give you a cleaner cut on the waste side due to the drop down foot.

A track saw will be safer due to the riving knife (festool has one)

A track saw will be more precise for doing bevels due to the pivoting mechanism. Regardless of angle you always place the track on your mark.

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A few quick thoughts:

A track saw will give you a cleaner cut on the waste side due to the drop down foot.

A track saw will be safer due to the riving knife (festool has one)

A track saw will be more precise for doing bevels due to the pivoting mechanism. Regardless of angle you always place the track on your mark.

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It won't be the festoon tracksaw if that makes a difference. It will be the makita tacksaw

The consensus here will be the track saw is far superior and worth it.  I just bought the Makita TS but haven't used it yet.  My circular saw is a $50 POS Ryobi, and I don't think I care.  I rarely used it and will use it much less now.

Ya that's what I was looking at getting.

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I did the research and couldn't justify the price difference between the makita and the festool.  The makitas sometimes come with slightly bowed tracks, so just check for that.  It seems like the tracks that are bowed only make clamps necessary.  I think* mine is dead on out of the box, but I'll know more with some trigger time.

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40 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

I was waiting on Black Friday to hopefully get a good sale for my makita circular saw I was planning on buying. However I got bored waiting and started researching tools... like always haha

So my uses would be breaking down sheet goods and making precise cuts on projects that may be too big for the tablesaw.

So my questions ...

What would be best for this out of the 2?

Is either one safer than the other?

Does a track saw excel at what I want it to do over the circular saw with a homemade zero clearance track?

Anything else I'm missing on why I should go one over the other?

Thanks!

I used a festool track saw one time to cut laminated 45 degree panels for a wall booth. I'm not sure if it's the only option out there but it worked flawlessly without chipping. Saw,blade or track or maybe the combination. Can't lose money on it's worth.

 

I'll argue if there's a point to be made on a tool, but I'm speechless on the Festool results 

 

hmauminions020.jpg

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I used a festool track saw one time to cut laminated 45 degree panels for a wall booth. I'm not sure if it's the only option out there but it worked flawlessly without chipping. Saw,blade or track or maybe the combination. Can't lose money on it's worth. 

Now here is an opinion I can back !

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I have the festool TS55.   In addition to the track, it has some other features that make it superior to typical circular saws:

1) it has a riving knife

2) it has precise depth of cut adjustments

3) it has precise bevel adjustments

4) it has no detectable blade deflection

I have never used a circular saw that has those features.  Depth and bevel adjustment are typically "approximately correct" on most circular saws.  

 

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I have the festool TS55.   In addition to the track, it has some other features that make it superior to typical circular saws:

1) it has a riving knife

2) it has precise depth of cut adjustments

3) it has precise bevel adjustments

4) it has no detectable blade deflection

I have never used a circular saw that has those features.  Depth and bevel adjustment are typically "approximately correct" on most circular saws.  

 

If I'm not getting the festool then what would you say? I'm going to go makita circular or makita track saw ...

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The circular saw and track saw do basically the same things but the track saw will do them all better.  And Festool will do some of those things even betterer.  If I wasn't planning to buy into the Festool universe I'd definitely get the Makita.  But if I owned or planned to own Festool sanders and a CT...or especially the MFT...then I think the extra money spent on the Festool is worth it.  I'm fairly certain only the Festool TS is compatible with the MFT (could be wrong).  A track saw is great, but without an MFT you're not able to tap into the depth of its versatility.  The MFT also opens other techniques with the router, and offers unique clamping opportunities for odd jobs.  I've barely scratched the surface with my MFT but it's a piece of kit that has proved far more useful than I imagined it would be when I bought it.  Something to think about...long term strategy.

All that said, even if you don't plan to go with Festool, with Makita's offering, I don't see how there's any wisdom in buying a regular circular saw anymore when it comes to fine woodworking.  It's a construction tool that we used to adapt to furnituremaking with straight edges and shop-made "tracks"...now we don't have to.

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12 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

If I'm not getting the festool then what would you say? I'm going to go makita circular or makita track saw ...

The track saw removes a lot of "you" from the equation.  I use a shop made guide but, it is up to me to remain accurate in tracking the guiding edge.  As you start to do more than just break things down, the track saw starts to reveal its value.

I do not have to do precision work away from the shop and I have a tablesaw so a track saw holds no value-add for me.  I breakdown sheets and use the tablesaw for the precision cuts.  If I needed similar precision on site or was doing anything other than "just 90's" away from my tablesaw I would go with a track saw every time.

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Sounds like your needs are right in line with a tracksaw. Another advantage vs regular circular saws is dust collection!

.

I just ordered the Makita, it should be here today! I almost got the festool but the makita has greater depth of cut, more power and a few other features for $200 less so i thought id give it a try. If it doesnt impress i'll probably return it and get a ts55 which ive used and know is worth the price. However that extra depth and power on the makita adds some value for my particular needs.

.

Added bonus, the makita comes in a wannabe systainer that ive heard will mount on ct vacs and accepts festool systainers on top.

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1 hour ago, bushwacked said:

If I'm not getting the festool then what would you say? I'm going to go makita circular or makita track saw ...

I have not seen the makita, but in general track saws have the features I mentioned.  

56 minutes ago, gee-dub said:

The track saw removes a lot of "you" from the equation.  I use a shop made guide but, it is up to me to remain accurate in tracking the guiding edge.  As you start to do more than just break things down, the track saw starts to reveal its value.

I do not have to do precision work away from the shop and I have a tablesaw so a track saw holds no value-add for me.  

I thought the same thing, and then I bought a tracksaw anyhow.  Now I wonder how I got along without it.  I think I have cut every panel on my Stickley cabinet with it.  The cabinet is big enough that wrestling the panels over to the table saw is kind of cumbersome, and any time you bring a large panel to a machine you risk marring the wood somewhere.   It is especially useful for getting perfect 90 degree cross cuts, which can be difficult on a non-sliding table saw.  I don't have a monster sled that can handle such large panels.  It is also great for establishing a straight edge on rough lumber.  Yes, this can be done with a circ saw or TS jig, but the TS makes it so easy, you get almost a jointed edge of the saw with your first cut.  A light 1/64" on the jointer (or with a hand plane, if that is your thing) and you have a perfect edge.   It is one of those tools that might not seem like an obvious fit in a fully outfitted shop, but then it becomes a go-to tool for all kinds of things.    It is by no means necessary, but it makes so many things so much easier.  

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The circular saw and track saw do basically the same things but the track saw will do them all better.  And Festool will do some of those things even betterer.  If I wasn't planning to buy into the Festool universe I'd definitely get the Makita.  But if I owned or planned to own Festool sanders and a CT...or especially the MFT...then I think the extra money spent on the Festool is worth it.  I'm fairly certain only the Festool TS is compatible with the MFT (could be wrong).  A track saw is great, but without an MFT you're not able to tap into the depth of its versatility.  The MFT also opens other techniques with the router, and offers unique clamping opportunities for odd jobs.  I've barely scratched the surface with my MFT but it's a piece of kit that has proved far more useful than I imagined it would be when I bought it.  Something to think about...long term strategy.

All that said, even if you don't plan to go with Festool, with Makita's offering, I don't see how there's any wisdom in buying a regular circular saw anymore when it comes to fine woodworking.  It's a construction tool that we used to adapt to furnituremaking with straight edges and shop-made "tracks"...now we don't have to.

The makita does ride on a festool track, so there's no reason it won't work on an mft that i can think of.

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You could also look at the Festool HK55, it has the benefit of being easier to use just as a regular circular saw, plus it can be used on any of the makita and or festool tracks. The only downside is the cut quality on the waste side of the cut is not as good as a dedicated track saw.

 

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I went through the circular saw fight for a few years myself.  shop made tracks that would warp after a while, varying pressure against the rail causing wonky cuts, far less than perfect cut quality off of the saw.

I bought a ts55 last Saturday and am inpatiently awaiting delivery.

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On 12/3/2016 at 11:37 AM, Brendon_t said:

I went through the circular saw fight for a few years myself.  shop made tracks that would warp after a while, varying pressure against the rail causing wonky cuts, far less than perfect cut quality off of the saw.

I bought a ts55 last Saturday and am inpatiently awaiting delivery.

Building jigs over and over is a learning curve. Glad to see you've committed to a " one time" purchase that will last you for years. Congrats....

 

8b4839ce6c9de6717fe79d01d2b82d5b.jpg

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  • 11 months later...
22 minutes ago, kylestinson said:

Went to this forum to get tips on which among the models of circular saw in this blog will be worth the purchase. Well, I think I just changed my mind and I might buy a track saw instead. Still considering, but it's a big possibility. :huh::D

I love my makita track saw! If you get one I would highly recommend buying a longer 14-2 cord so you can have plenty of cord cutting down full sheets of plywood. Mine is now 15' and never have an issue anymore.

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Welcome to the forums Kyle

I think in the long run you would be much happier with the track saw.  It is great for its designed purpose and can also be used with out the track just as any regular circular saw can be.  I lot of people here have the Festool models but I know that the Makita mentioned above got top marks in some magazine reviews as a "Best Value".

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On ‎11‎/‎26‎/‎2016 at 6:28 AM, sheperd80 said:

Added bonus, the makita comes in a wannabe systainer that ive heard will mount on ct vacs and accepts festool systainers on top.

FWIW, I own and love the Makita tracksaw, but I HATE the latches on the Makita psuedo-systainer.  They're really hard to open and close, and I always feel like they're going to break when I attempt to access box.  I now leave mine unlatched on the shelf, unless I actually need to carry it in the box someplace.

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