jgfore Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I bought a Porter Cable Dovetail jig for this project, (because I really want it to look nice and I have never done dovetails by hand before) but have found that it only does half blind dovetails, unless I purchase another plate. Since my wife will probably leave me or castrate me if another tool arrives on the door step, I really do not need to do this YET. So, my question is: If I do the half blind dovetails, and I want them to be visible, can I let the blind side be on the draw sides, and let the visible portion be seen as the front of the drawer. My next question is: WILL IT LOOK STUPID? If Marc ends up doing his by hand, and not use the jig, then I may attempt them by hand, but I just do not know. I will probably spend most of the time in the shop cutting, jointing, planing the wood for the project, so practicing dovetails by hand is not much of an option now either. Let me know what you think? Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekG Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 In my opinion half blind dovetails on the front has a few problems. First it would look a little funky. Second it defeats the point of a dovetail joint. Since the front of the drawer could easily pull out of socket when the half blind is showing toward the front. Granted a glue joint with that setup would still be really strong... it just seems wrong all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgfore Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 In my opinion half blind dovetails on the front has a few problems. First it would look a little funky. Second it defeats the point of a dovetail joint. Since the front of the drawer could easily pull out of socket when the half blind is showing toward the front. Granted a glue joint with that setup would still be really strong... it just seems wrong all around. Well, I kind of thought the same thing about the way it might look. However, I did not think about the drawer face being able to pull away from the sides. Yes, you are right, there is no way that I would ever pull on it hard enough to break the glued joint, it does seem even more odd after knowing that. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekG Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Wish you were closer to central ark, you could borrow the template that does through dovetails. It's been sitting in a cabinet drawer since I made myself put way the router and learn to hand cut dovetails. And until that is done I'm not allowed to use the power one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMarshall Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I agree that the "reversed" joint would be plenty strong enough. After glue up there is very little chance you could pull the front off the drawer. But it would look strange to you, and any other woodworkers that see it. The average person likely wouldn't notice though. I don't know how the PC jig works, but the drawer front is shown at 3/4" thick in the plan. For a small drawer, there's no reason you couldn't get away with a 1/2" thick drawer front - it would be plenty strong. What about using your jig to make half-blind dovetails the regular way in a thick drawer front, then planing it down to 1/2" to reveal the tails/pins? You may be able to get away with that... Or, how about just doing standard half-blind dovetails on the drawer? Strong and plenty nice looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I like Aaron's idea. Excellent. I don't know if that jig comes with the half-blind template or if that was a choice, but to me the through-dovetail template is more versatile. If I wanted lapped/half-blind dovetails, I'd still do through-dovetails and apply a front as it gives you so much more control over the show side of the drawer front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekG Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I like Aaron's idea. Excellent. I don't know if that jig comes with the half-blind template or if that was a choice, but to me the through-dovetail template is more versatile. If I wanted lapped/half-blind dovetails, I'd still do through-dovetails and apply a front as it gives you so much more control over the show side of the drawer front. The pc 4210 comes with a template for making just half blind I think. The 4212 comes with a template for box joints and through dovetails in addition to the half blind. Or you can buy the template separately and add to the 4210. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgfore Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 The pc 4210 comes with a template for making just half blind I think. The 4212 comes with a template for box joints and through dovetails in addition to the half blind. Or you can buy the template separately and add to the 4210. Yes. The 4210 is what I have. I tried my first attempt at a dovetail joint tonight by hand. OH MY GOODNESS!!! It looks as though a beaver tried to gnaw a dovetail. It actually fit tight, but only because some areas did not get cut enough, but most of the dovetail you could see through the gaps. WOW! I am sure glad someone made a jig. I will eventually practice until I get it right, but it will take much longer than in a few weeks when we cut them on the cabinet. Since I really want the through dovetails on the cabinet, I guess I will just have the through tenon jig shipped to my work . I know that some of you are going to say: just watch Marc's episode on Dovetails, or watch Rob Cosman's videos on dovetails. I HAVE, and it only makes me mad how easy they make it seem. I really do like you idea Aaron. I may do exactly that on this project. Although I would have to stick with the half blinds on the sides and top. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekG Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 Yes. The 4210 is what I have. I tried my first attempt at a dovetail joint tonight by hand. OH MY GOODNESS!!! It looks as though a beaver tried to gnaw a dovetail. It actually fit tight, but only because some areas did not get cut enough, but most of the dovetail you could see through the gaps. WOW! I am sure glad someone made a jig. I will eventually practice until I get it right, but it will take much longer than in a few weeks when we cut them on the cabinet. Since I really want the through dovetails on the cabinet, I guess I will just have the through tenon jig shipped to my work . I know that some of you are going to say: just watch Marc's episode on Dovetails, or watch Rob Cosman's videos on dovetails. I HAVE, and it only makes me mad how easy they make it seem. I really do like you idea Aaron. I may do exactly that on this project. Although I would have to stick with the half blinds on the sides and top. Jeff Lol, don't feel bad man. I should go take pictures of all the scrap wood I have from dovetail practice now. Some of the failures are truly amazing And I still can't make a joint I'd show anyone.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch02 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Maybe you could cut them with the jig, then "extend" them by hand? That would at least give you some guides to work from, easing any nerves about hand cut dovetails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgfore Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I just purchased the through dovetail jig. It has still taken a lot of scrap lumber to get the dovetails down, even using the jig, but I think that I have figured it out. I am very nervous about actually trying it on the real deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdbuilder Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Just make sure the scrap you've been trying it out on is the same thickness as your workpieces, you'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekG Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 If you haven't seen this one yet it is the "Advanced" manual for the pc jigs: http://www.portercable.com/jigs/dovetail/SupplementalManual.pdf Lots of great info in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgfore Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Finished the dovetails on my cabinet and they look great. Money well spent for the through dovetail jig. I still want to conquer them by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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