Lathe Dust Chutes

[lewisc]

I'm looking at setting up either of the following for a full size lathe. I know i'm in AUS but if anyone has used anything like it, some advice would be welcome. 

https://www.timbecon.com.au/extraction-safety/dust-extractor-fittings/dust-picker-stand-and-hood

https://www.carbatec.com.au/dust-control/accessories/big-gulp-lathe-hood

 

Thanks!

[CandorLush]

I have used a setup like this when sanding and it works really well .

While it won't catch it all, it works WAYYYYYY better than not having anything and it is super cool to watch a stream of sawdust curving through the air and into the collector. 

[Marmotjr]

I recently added DC to my home made lathe powered thickness sander:  I used a 4" PVC pipe to cover the drum.   I went from a blizzard of dust requiring a full face respirator, to almost nothing in the air, and even probably would have felt comfortable without the half mask I ended up wearing. 

The left over piece of PVC became a standard DC shield that significantly improved my DC.   This shield was just a half-***ed setup.  With some minor modifications, like added straight tangent extensions on the top and bottom of the shield, I would have a system as good if not better than commercially available. 

Make your own.  Make a stand that fit's what you want, not what a company thinks you need.  Make the shield to fit the work you'll be doing.  If you mainly turn pens, then a huge shield won't work.  If you turn huge vases, then make a bigger one.   You could probably make a whole series of custom shaped shields for all the work you do for the same price as a purchased shield that doesn't quite match your work. 

[lewisc]

8 hours ago, CandorLush said:

I have used a setup like this when sanding and it works really well .

While it won't catch it all, it works WAYYYYYY better than not having anything and it is super cool to watch a stream of sawdust curving through the air and into the collector. 

I have something similar to this one using one of these Roller stand and a big chute attached to the top. It worked well as far as getting the dust sucked away. The struggle with it is moving it for longer pieces. If it's a small, no problem. It's it's a table leg etc, it's a pain. That's why I'm looking at the arm that moves. 

 

5 hours ago, Marmotjr said:

I recently added DC to my home made lathe powered thickness sander:  I used a 4" PVC pipe to cover the drum.   I went from a blizzard of dust requiring a full face respirator, to almost nothing in the air, and even probably would have felt comfortable without the half mask I ended up wearing. 

The left over piece of PVC became a standard DC shield that significantly improved my DC.   This shield was just a half-***ed setup.  With some minor modifications, like added straight tangent extensions on the top and bottom of the shield, I would have a system as good if not better than commercially available. 

Make your own.  Make a stand that fit's what you want, not what a company thinks you need.  Make the shield to fit the work you'll be doing.  If you mainly turn pens, then a huge shield won't work.  If you turn huge vases, then make a bigger one.   You could probably make a whole series of custom shaped shields for all the work you do for the same price as a purchased shield that doesn't quite match your work. 

This looks real interesting. How does your sander work?

Does it pull enough dust from the middle of the pipe if you're turning/sanding at the end?

[Marmotjr]

14 minutes ago, lewisc said:

This looks real interesting. How does your sander work?

Does it pull enough dust from the middle of the pipe if you're turning/sanding at the end?

Yes, like I said, I barely even noticed any dust in the air.  I still wore a mask to be safe though.

It's just a drum sander.  4x4 post turned true, glued/screwed on a hardwood block on the end, tapped threads for the drive shaft.  60 grit belt paper glued to the drum.  Plywood bed is hinged and has a bolt in the back that raises or lowers it to adjust the height of the sander.  . The DC shield is bolted to the wooden bracket you can see in both pics, and the end over the tailstock is just a block rounded on both sides to rest on the spindle of the tailstock. 

The vertical DC shield for normal work is literally the cutoff from the drum sander shield.  I screwed on a piece of scrap with the right size hole in it, glue up the gaps, and bolted it to the bracket.   I drilled some more holes later to allow it to be repositioned.

All of the wood you see are scraps from some pallet wood I have laying around.  The ring holding the hose on the arm was 3d printed, but could easily have been done with wood.  I just printed it so it would be done around the same time I got done building the rest of the jig. 

Like I said, I truly believe you can make a better DC shield, specific to exactly your needs and space for far less than you can get one commercially.  Izzy swan made some zero clearance inserts by heating and flattening PVC.  I think you could make some very nice shields by using a few simple clamping jigs and his method.  Or glue up some scrap ply into the size shield box you want.  Or cut up a PVC pipe.  My lathe is only a 10", so a bigger pipe would be necessary for a bigger lathe.