Live edge slabs

[Miss4fiddy]

Hi there  

Im very new to the woodworking gig. 

I'll be picking stopping by a sawmill of an old family friend and he will be cutting some slabs for me. 

I'm pretty sure it's not green as it has been sitting in his yard for quite some time. Once it has been cut i heard the rule of thumb was to put it indoors and let it sit for 1 year per inch of thickness. I'm looking at getting some 2" slabs. 

My question is, even if it has been cut for over a year or 2 (depending on what log in get him to cut me slabs) do I still have to bring it indoors for quite sometime to acclimatize before cleaning and sanding and putting it on a frame? Any info would be great and I appreciate it! 

[treeslayer]

not really my area of expertise but i believe it would have to be cut into slabs or whatever before it would begin to dry much at all. in log form say a 14 inch diameter tree would take many years to dry if not cut into boards. have him cut it, sticker it in a dry place and wait.

[Miss4fiddy]

Ok thanks for the tips!

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[wdwerker]

Invest in a moisture meter, or see if he has one.

[JosephThomas]

I think the "1 year per inch" rule only applies if the logs have already been cut into boards...and it's just a rule of thumb anyway, doesn't take into consideration the most important factors (species, starting moisture level of the tree, humidity of the environment the tree is stored in, etc). I would take the advice above and get a moisture meter.  

Also note that air drying is a process that requires patience, which is why most lumber is kiln-dried these days (depending on the location of course...but 'm guessing if you have snow, kiln drying is the recommended course of action. Ask your friend with the sawmill what he usually does.

[Keggers]

I recently cut some walnut logs that I've had sitting at the mill for over five years. The logs were on blocks and not touching the ground. The boards we sawed had a surprisingly 32% moisture content. I cut some 4" x 5" thick pieces and will slowly air dry them in my shop for future gun stock blanks. I expect a wait of approximately three years before they are dry enough to work. So, that tells you that even though your buddy has some logs that have been laying around for a year or so, they will most likely have a pretty high moisture content depending on the species.

4/4 walnut stock brought into my shop with a fan moving the air and a dehumidifier running 24/7 will take about four to five months to dry down to 8 - 9% mc. That's starting with a board with an approximate mc of 32%.

Hope this helps.

 

[Miss4fiddy]

I believe it is spruce he will be cutting me. If i seal the ends with paint or a wax, sticker them or whatever the terminology is and strap them down to decrease warpage and place them in my basement on the other side of the room from the stove (we usually have the wood stove going cause it is -25 here) will it Crack them or dry the exterior too quickly resulting in a poor quality slab? If I was to try and get them kiln dried I have no clue where to go for that. I will definitely ask the guy who owns the mill if he has any ideas. Thanks again

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[Coop]

Miss, I'm a little south of you, determined by the white stuff, and have had some walnut slabs stickered and drying for a little over two years and the 6/4 are just now reaching 14%. I've been told that air circulation has a lot to do with the drying and yes, I think in a temp controlled invironment such as a heated basement, that exposed areas will dry too fast. If you have the outside room, I would stack and sticker and cover the top and let nature take it's course. Get ready for a long ride! What are you going to use these for?

[Miss4fiddy]

@K Cooper little end tables like this. I've been looking for slabs everywhere. Now I finally found some I'm very antsy to start building.. but of course I'd like to sell a quality product.. I might have to tuck them away for a while and possibly buy a slab or 2 already kiln dried from Windsor and create some tables to get my fix! 

[drzaius]

Just now, Miss4fiddy said:

@K Cooper little end tables like this. I've been looking for slabs everywhere. Now I finally found some I'm very antsy to start building.. but of course I'd like to sell a quality product.. I might have to tuck them away for a while and possibly buy a slab or 2 already kiln dried from Windsor and create some tables to get my fix! 

 

If you're in Calgary, try Black Forest Hardwoods. They sometimes have good slabs. I remember a couple of years ago they had a couple of 10' x 3' - 4', 8/4 bubinga slabs that were just perfect. Lots of $$$ for those.

[Miss4fiddy]

I'm up in fort McMurray. I travel to edmonton quite a bit tho. Possibly will take a trip to Calgary this spring. I will check them out

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[wtnhighlander]

For slab-topped tables on an iron base, wood movement is not such a big issue. Search for an online wood shrinkage calculator, and attach the top in such a way to allow it to expand or contract as much as the calculator suggests. For such a base, I imagine tabs around the upper rim, with elongated holes.

This will allow a slab that is note quite at equilibrium a chance to move without ripping itself apart. I still wouldn't try to use freshly milled lumber, but you shouldn't have to wait YEARS, anyway.

[Merlau]

i have cut slabs from walnut and maple and cherry, and it takes yrs to air dry a 2" piece to establish it equilibrium like others have said.. in your tables and using spruce ,inside with air space between and separate each board sideways too. will get you in shorter time. in my area, Michigan we have some warm summers, but your Alberta area may not get as warm. kiln drying of the spruce wouldn't take long, spruce dries faster than other denser woods.