Andy Faust Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 How to square one edge I just revive a dewalt plainer for Christmas. And want to get the most out of it. How should I also flatte one side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Jigs or hand tools? Hand tools takes a plane or two. Jigs include straight line rip if you have a table saw, and planer sled for the planer. This is all available here in the forum by search and on YouTube. Ask anything that is not clear. Welcome to the forums! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Faust Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Oh I was thinking of using a circular saw but using a hand plain is a great idea thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 A circular saw and straightedge guide can work for making one edge straight, and more or less square to the face. Since you have a thickness planer and a circular saw, I suggest cutting a plywood 'sled' to go under the board. Use shims and hot glue to make the board stable against the plywood, then pass the assembly through the planer (board side up) until the top face is flat. Then remove the ply, clean away any glue residue, and pass the board through with the flat side down to make the opposite face flat and parallel. Now use your circular saw and a straightedge to rip one edge straight and square. Making the opposite edge straight, square to the faces, and parallel to the first edge is easiest with a tablesaw. It can also be done with a circ saw and edge guide, or by running the board on edge through the planer (sketchy operation with thinner stock), or by careful marking, ripping, and hand planing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Faust Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 I have just watched Matts batsment workshop. And he uses this exact way to flatten large boards as you are talking about. Hopefully some day I'll be able to start looking for a jointer but this should hold me over and now I can start to make things out of solid wood at home. But I definitely need a table saw first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 ... But I definitely need a table saw first. Don't let this percieved "need" hold you back. Plenty of fine furniture was and is made using a collection of hand tools small enough to carry around in a single tote! Check out Shannon Rogers at http://www.renniasancewoodworker.com Even if neanderthal woodworking isn't your end goal, there are plenty of tips to help you keep working as you build up your powered workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Faust Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Very true there is no need for big expensive power tools. Im learning woodwork in a technical school and they are a hybrid woodworking approach. And I enjoy this way of creating fine fruitier would like the easy of construction that larger tools my provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Mark had a pretty good approach he covered awhile back. A little simpler than trying to use hand planes to get the entire surface perfectly flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Faust Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Hey that's not a bad idea. Might need to tune up some of my hand plains I haven't used in a wile but this seams like a easy way to get some great results from my new dewalt plainer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Welcome to the foums Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Faust Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Thanks hear about it on the show and decider to join and see what it's like. Couldn't have asked for a better response and faster resalts. Was trying to google this question and was getting nowhere. So I tried out the forum 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 I can't add anything. The guys that responded know what they are doing..............most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted January 1, 2017 Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Another method that I didn't notice mentioned, but may have been in the video Isaac linked, is making a router sled to joint large boards. Marc did a nice video on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arbiterr Posted January 2, 2017 Report Share Posted January 2, 2017 Since you just received a planer, best way to have the wide face squared in a planer is to place (double sided tape) the wood on a known jointed flat piece of wood (mdf, melamine) and pass it through the planer. That will square one face and then you can use that as a guide to joint the other side in the planer. If your wood is too wobbly, you might want to add some paper or extra tape to pad that surface at the base to straighten things, otherwise you'll shave off quite a lot of wood while planing. I personally do not have a planer, but have a router, so i use a router plane jig to do it (it can get annoying, but works) For the edges, I use a table saw jig that looks similar to pic. As long as your rails are snug with minimal wobble, your edge will be jointed perfectly everytime. I replied without reading other comments, so ignore any repetitions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Not sure that I agree with your first statement. How does the mdf that you double side tape the said board to, differ from the flat bed of the planer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 3 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Not sure that I agree with your first statement. How does the mdf that you double side tape the said board to, differ from the flat bed of the planer? Sleep on it Ken. The bed stays put making a curved piece move. If you tape that curved piece to a flat piece that moves with it, your piece won't follow its curve. Google planer sled. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 I have a planer sled where I use solid stock, shims or playing cards, that holds the board in place. My double sided tape has a foam core, allowing it to move. I guess I'm missing something? Glad I have a jointer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Just now, K Cooper said: I have a planer sled where I use solid stock, shims or playing cards, that holds the board in place. My double sided tape has a foam core, allowing it to move. I guess I'm missing something? Glad I have a jointer! That makes more sense. I did not get that question from your prior post. That is a legit concern potential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Coop is correct, ay wobble needs to be shimmed or braced so the board doesn't move under the planer's pressure rollers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arbiterr Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 On 1/2/2017 at 10:29 PM, K Cooper said: I have a planer sled where I use solid stock, shims or playing cards, that holds the board in place. My double sided tape has a foam core, allowing it to move. I guess I'm missing something? Glad I have a jointer! Ah, the double sided tape I use is plastic only, no foam (foam sure would be a concern). I use it for my router plane jig and it keeps the stock well in place figured it should work with a planer sled too. I also make sure to apply tape in an H pattern so it has a better grip from both directions (in my case). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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