Outdoor Table Design (wood movement question)


bcd

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Hi Everyone- I have a question about my design for an outdoor table that I'm working on.

Basically, should I be worried about (or do I need to accommodate for) the cross pieces expanding and pushing the slats out and blowing out my "breadboard end?" I've thought about making cross pieces more narrow or switching the grain direction on the cross pieces so that it's in-line with the slats, but then I'm just worried about a movement affecting the long side of the table. 

I'm using white oak for the project and I'm going to finish with CPES and Epifanaes. 

I've been reading the forums for years, but this is my first post. Thanks in advance for your advice. 

Table2.jpg

Table1.jpg

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welcome to the forum bcd, whats the joinery for the slats? T&G? do some research here on breadboard ends to allow for movement and i would peg or pin the slats in the middle of the boards to keep them in place. i don't see a problem with your design, whats the method for constructing the apron and legs?

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Wood doesn't change length enough to worry about. It changes the most across the grain on flat sawn boards. Quartersawn boards behave better. Thickness changes a little but is usually not a worry. I don't see any glaring errors in your drawing.

Depending on the thickness of your slats you cut the ends of them down until they will fit into a domino mortice. A few strokes with a rasp will round the corners. Make sure you use the exterior Sipo dominos and an exterior rated glue.

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Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate the replies.

My main concern was that the cross members (shaded in green) would expand across the grain and cause a failure at the joints between ends (shaded in red) and the rest of the table. Am I over-estimating how much expansion there will be with those 3 boards? table.jpg

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9 hours ago, treeslayer said:

i don't own a domino (yet) i think it won't be long before domino owners will chime in on their use in this situation, looks like a nice table.

Not meaning to side track the thread, my commercially produced dining room tabletop has tongue and groove joints.  A woodworking buddy suggests that these are a pain, if you by the lumber pre tongue and grooved (warped boards, etc.)  So I suppose the tongue and grooves can be cut after joining/planing the boards; is this the usual practice?

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i was referring to the slats and i may have used the wrong term, on the ends of the slats i think that would actually be called stub tenon and groove is what i was referring to, if you are going to make your own true tongue and groove there is a router bit set for that or you can make them on the table saw, either way after they are planed and jointed, sorry for the confusion, i happens when i haven't had enough coffee, and most other times too!

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