bbarry9999 Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I recently got a jointer, and now fully appreciate what a really flat edge means and looks like. My question is what is the reccomended type of TS blade for ripping boards (with one edge jointed to the appropriate width, with a clean strsight edge? How many teeth, carbide? Etc.... THANKS BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 There's a few posts here on that subject that may be worth researching.. I typically leave a Woodworker II in my saw - 40 TPI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I have the Freud Glue Line Rip which is 30 tooth that I am real happy with. It also leaves a flat kerf so it is nice for dados, grooves and rabbets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Here's some reading for you http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/12395 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 46 minutes ago, Chet K said: It also leaves a flat kerf so it is nice for dados, grooves and rabbets. I hate to contradict you Chet but the 30 tooth Freud rip blades have a TCG which does not leave a flat kerf. The trapezoidal tooth sits .5mm proud of the flat topped raker tooth, which produces a roundish kerf. http:// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 That is weird. I have their glue line rip and that is not the kerf I get. I wonder if they changed something recently. I used it to cut all the tenons on my bookcase project last fall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 2 minutes ago, Chet K said: That is weird. I have their glue line rip and that is not the kerf I get. I wonder if they changed something recently. Maybe so. Usually Freud has a diagram of the tooth pattern printed on the plate of the blade. Next time you get a chance, check to see if yours has a TCG or FTG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Blades like Freud's glue line rip blades do a great job or ripping. They cut very nicely and you can glue boards together right from the table saw but don't count on them to make a cut that is clean enough to leave exposed in a finished project. You will still have some sanding to do. I tend to mount my glue line blade when I have a lot of ripping to do because it cuts so nicely and I can feed the wood through the saw faster. But I rip about 1/32 wide and then take a pass with the jointer. If I am ripping just one or 2 pieces I use my woodworker 2 blade and then take a pass on the jointer. Just my approach, I am sure that others may do it differently. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 13 minutes ago, Ronn W said: But I rip about 1/32 wide and then take a pass with the jointer. This is basically my routine, and depending on the size it goes to the jointer or the hand plane. I even hit the glue side. I like the glue line rip because it does give a clean edge so it cuts down in the next steps what ever they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbarry9999 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 6 hours ago, Ronn W said: Blades like Freud's glue line rip blades do a great job or ripping. They cut very nicely and you can glue boards together right from the table saw but don't count on them to make a cut that is clean enough to leave exposed in a finished project. You will still have some sanding to do. I tend to mount my glue line blade when I have a lot of ripping to do because it cuts so nicely and I can feed the wood through the saw faster. But I rip about 1/32 wide and then take a pass with the jointer. If I am ripping just one or 2 pieces I use my woodworker 2 blade and then take a pass on the jointer. Just my approach, I am sure that others may do it differently. Do I understand you correctly? Your process is joint to get a straight edge, rip the board a little large and then joint the saw cut edge? Does that keep things parallel enough? How do you dial in the final thickness on the jointer? Just sneak up on it? thanks for all the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Freud glue line rip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Didn't someone just post a few weeks ago that Freud has 2 grinds for their glue line rip blades? Found it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwood Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Another Freud glue line rip user Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 10 hours ago, Ronn W said: Blades like Freud's glue line rip blades do a great job or ripping. They cut very nicely and you can glue boards together right from the table saw but don't count on them to make a cut that is clean enough to leave exposed in a finished project. You will still have some sanding to do. I tend to mount my glue line blade when I have a lot of ripping to do because it cuts so nicely and I can feed the wood through the saw faster. But I rip about 1/32 wide and then take a pass with the jointer. If I am ripping just one or 2 pieces I use my woodworker 2 blade and then take a pass on the jointer. Just my approach, I am sure that others may do it differently. This is how I roll. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I'm kinda shocked that's common practice. Unless my blade is dull or dirty, I couldn't imagine getting a straighter, cleaner cut on my jointer than on my tablesaw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 My jointer is definitely a class or two below my tablesaw. As long as I pay attention though, I'm getting very good results and invisible or near invisible glue lines in panels. I can't ask for more than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 13 hours ago, bbarry9999 said: Do I understand you correctly? Your process is joint to get a straight edge, rip the board a little large and then joint the saw cut edge? Does that keep things parallel enough? How do you dial in the final thickness on the jointer? Just sneak up on it? thanks for all the feedback. Just to clarify, we are talking about the width of the board. ( Edge jointing) My saw cut is within 1/32" of final, on pass on the jointer set at 1/32 gets very, very close. Seldom is the width of the board so critical that I have to worry about 1/64 inch. The only time I worry about that type of precision is if I need several pieces the exact same width. Then I treat them all the same, rip at saw, one pass on the jointer then stack them side by side and try to feel any difference. For all practical purposes there usually isn't any. 1/64" is only 15/1000. Close enough for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I remember watching Denab Puchalski @ a woodworking show demonstrating a jointer plane. He insisted I would need one if wanted perfect edges for glueing.And a power jointer would only get me close. A tear rolled down my check as I suddenly realized he has never had the joy of using a proper well tuned jointer. I did buy a foreplane that day. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 8 hours ago, bleedinblue said: I'm kinda shocked that's common practice. Unless my blade is dull or dirty, I couldn't imagine getting a straighter, cleaner cut on my jointer than on my tablesaw. +1 - I'm witch you blue! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 23 hours ago, Mike. said: Then I think there is something wrong with your jointer the only problem i have with this @Mike. is i don't have a jointer not that i don't want one, just no room at all for one. i'm with @bleedinblue and use the TS with a Forrest blade as thats the cards I've been dealt. i also get a very good joint if I'm careful. not arguing with you its just that i think a lot of people on here don't have a jointer and may think they can't get good results without one and to let the folks who are looking over our shoulder (guests) know its possible to get a good joint. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Maybe I'm the exception here but my glue line rip blade does not produce what I consider a glue ready surface. Cutting oversized then a very thin pass on the jointer is pretty much required. Not optional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 1 hour ago, Brendon_t said: Cutting oversized then a very thin pass on the jointer is pretty much required. Not optional. for those of us without a jointer a TS or hand plane is about the only option and a properly tuned TS will give a very fine edge, maybe not quite as good or as easy as a jointer but perfectly acceptable, i hope you're not saying that us jointer-less woodworkers should quit till we get a jointer or we are making inferior pieces. lots of folks don't have the space or money for a jointer and still make some very nice things. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 1 hour ago, Brendon_t said: Maybe I'm the exception here but my glue line rip blade does not produce what I consider a glue ready surface. Cutting oversized then a very thin pass on the jointer is pretty much required. Not optional. Not the exception at all. I usually joint/plane three surfaces and rip the fourth edge on the TS, but if I want to edge join two boards I pair the two boards and hit those fourth edges with my #5 hand plane. Of course if the boards are thicker than 4/4 my hand plane won't be wide enough so I'll have to go with a light pass on the jointer or glue them up with the cuts from the TS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I used a Freud glue line rip blade before I got a jointer plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I'm a bit confused by this discussion, are we only discussing specifically large panel glue ups here? If you want to produce a bunch 2-1/4" wide strips with consistent width, do you end with a run through the jointer, or stop after the TS? I can imagine the jointer giving a smoother finished surface, most suitable for glue up, but ripping on the TS will give the most consistent piece width, right? My experience is that depending on the thickness and type of wood I'm cutting, I get a very smooth surface off my TS, though sometimes a pass with a hand plane is necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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