Popular Post Isaac Posted January 25, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Working on a Garret Hack side table with tapered and splayed legs. I'm using hard maple for the top and apron and cherry for the legs. I haven't documented every step but here goes. Started with playing around with stock to find the right boards for the table top. I'm actually making two of these, so this is the other table top, after glue up Blanks for the legs cut to size: My goofy taper cutting jig. Legs tapered and routed A quick fit up sanity check using some scrap material to fill the mortises. Now cutting and routing the actual apron pieces The set up I used to cut the apron pieces to get the desired 94 degree angle Dry fitting,on the right track, though the tenon is a little long and the shoulder needs clean up. Progress dry fitting, nothing glued or cleaned up yet. With the top laid on. Note: the top has not been cut to final size yet, it will be shorter. Close up of the leg to apron connection. Don't mind the gap at the between the apron and top, I haven't trimmed the legs flush yet, which will happen after I glue up. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Looking good. It never occurred to me to use mortises that exit the top of the legs. Do you find that easier than a regular mortise? Does that bottom of your mortise have to be dead on or do you have another way of getting the tops of the aprons all at the proper height? I usually cut my mortises a little long aand my legs exact and then adjust the aprons to the leg tops during gluing.....risky. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da Hammer Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 8 hours ago, Ronn W said: Looking good. It never occurred to me to use mortises that exit the top of the legs. Do you find that easier than a regular mortise? Does that bottom of your mortise have to be dead on or do you have another way of getting the tops of the aprons all at the proper height? I usually cut my mortises a little long aand my legs exact and then adjust the aprons to the leg tops during gluing.....risky. I don't really have a regular mortise set up. I cut the mortises on my router table using the fence and stop block, so I could just ram the leg in until I hit the stop block, which gave me very consistent depth. I squared the mortises with a chisel and also paired off a tiny bit of the tenon at the bottom, probably about 1/8", which made the apron pieces cover the bottom of the mortises. I had to do two passes, because the full depth was too much for a single pass. The only challenge was the mortises were not centered, which meant I had to do one set up for one side and a different set up for the adjacent side. I was worried I'd made some mistake and the thing would be un-buildable, which is why I took the time to slide in the test spacers, just to see if it would even form a table like structure, once I was satisfied of that, it was a huge relief. I've got one in glue up right now and should only have to flush cut the tops of the legs to make it nice and smooth. In this case the table top will extend over the apron and legs, further concealing any minor discrepancies between the top of apron and underside of table top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Coming along nicely Isaac. I think you'll have a winner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Nice to see a mixture of sap and heartwood used . I like the bookmatched tops ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Isaac Posted January 26, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Updated progress, Table 1 Table 2, I'm really excited to see how the big knot of the top comes out when finished. And the pair Still have to finesse the underside and clean things up/sand, and then i'll be ready to start the finishing process. Adding this under bevel really does lighten up the feel of the top. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 13 hours ago, Isaac said: The only challenge was the mortises were not centered, which meant I had to do one set up for one side and a different set up for the adjacent side. great looking pair of tables Isaac, when i have off center mortices like that i run them thru the router right to left on the ones i can, and on the other ones i set my stop and plunge the bit in and router as normal, right to left, i take small cuts and square the mortice with a chisel like you do 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Looking nice, Isaac. I can't wait to see them pop under finish, either! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Nice job. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Isaac Posted January 31, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Here are the tables after finishing. I'm happy with how they came out, and happy I did two at once. It was a good decision to increase my efficiency. I used 3 coats of ARS to finish them. I like this design. Since the tops are completely independent of the base, and held with figure 8 fasteners, they could be removed and refinished or even replaced, down the line, if that was ever necessary. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 The knot looks good but I really like the sapwood bookmatch ! The splayed legs give the table a nice stance. Signed and dated ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Agreed, both are nice, but i prefer the sapwood bookmatch with a hint of curl. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 The knot really stands out with the finish but the bookmatch with all the figure is assume. Great work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted January 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 4 hours ago, wdwerker said: The knot looks good but I really like the sapwood bookmatch ! The splayed legs give the table a nice stance. Signed and dated ? Yeah I wish I could have book matched the knot as well, but I only had it on one piece of wood, but just decided to go with it because I liked the look and knew it would really pop once I finished it. I haven't signed my pieces before, would a permanent marking somewhere on the underside work, or should I have done that before applying three coats of urethane... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Sharpie on the underside will work fine. Sometimes I list the wood species and type of finish used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Sharpie this time, brand for future projects... http://gearheartindustry.com/products/custom-logo-branding-iron Nice job, Isaac. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Nice work, Issac! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 3 hours ago, Eric. said: Sharpie this time, brand for future projects... http://gearheartindustry.com/products/custom-logo-branding-iron Nice job, Isaac. O man, that is awesome and surprisingly reasonably priced. Now I just need a logo. Also, how do people heat those? over the stove? a torch? 7 hours ago, Pwk5017 said: Agreed, both are nice, but i prefer the sapwood bookmatch with a hint of curl. Yeah that is the consensus both here and people who've seen it. It was my favorite all along too, but that knot is really quite nice up close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 14 minutes ago, Isaac said: O man, that is awesome and surprisingly reasonably priced. Now I just need a logo. Also, how do people heat those? over the stove? a torch? Mine is corded but you can buy a torch-heated version as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 1 hour ago, Eric. said: Mine is corded but you can buy a torch-heated version as well. O right, like a wood burner, that makes sense. I was just thinking of the cattle rustler style branding and thinking, man, I don't generally have an open pit of hot coals going in my (basement) woodshop... now what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 2 minutes ago, Isaac said: O right, like a wood burner, that makes sense. I was just thinking of the cattle rustler style branding and thinking, man, I don't generally have an open pit of hot coals going in my (basement) woodshop... now what? "...torch-heated..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 1 minute ago, C Shaffer said: "...torch-heated..." Yeah I got it now. Just hadn't thought about it before this conversation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 Isaac, those tables look great! A note on the branding iron - I use a shop built iron, and it heats up fine if I place it on the eye of my kitchen range (electric) for a few minutes, on high. No flame required. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 18 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Isaac, those tables look great! A note on the branding iron - I use a shop built iron, and it heats up fine if I place it on the eye of my kitchen range (electric) for a few minutes, on high. No flame required. How did you ever mold the actual branding end? Do you have metal working tools and such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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