What is your preferred paint for kitchen cabinets?


hawkeyestoob

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I am about to paint my existing kitchen cabinets. I am doing all the standard prep work: wash/degrease, scuff the surface, fix surface imperfections, prime, etc. My plan is to remove all the doors and drawer fronts as well as all hardware. Then I will brush/roll the boxes in place and spray the doors and drawer fronts in the shop to minimize overspray in the house. We intend to go with a white to greyish white perhaps and might go with a darker tone on the base cabinets. 

What flavor and or brand do you prefer and have the best luck with? At this point I am looking at Benjamin Moore Advance and Sherwin Williams Pro Classic. 

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Between the brands it usually comes down to the know how in your local supply chain. I worked in a Ben Moore paint company while Sherwin Williams was down the street. Both places gave superb service. Not so much at the box stores. Shop the store first, then the brand decision becomes easier. You want someone who understands the formulations in an in depth fashion. 

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Just now, AceHoleInOne said:

I would go with a water-based pigmented poly. It's a topcoat that is pigmented with a color. Tough and durable for the kitchen. Formulated to spray.

-Ace-

 

How does that go on when you are brushing / rolling? I only want to spray the doors and drawer fronts since I can physically take them out of the house. 

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8 minutes ago, hawkeyestoob said:

How does that go on when you are brushing / rolling? I only want to spray the doors and drawer fronts since I can physically take them out of the house. 

Let me ask you a question, how are you going to spray the pro-classic? I believe the only way to spray this formula is with an air assisted airless.

 

-Ace- 

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9 minutes ago, AceHoleInOne said:

Let me ask you a question, how are you going to spray the pro-classic? I believe the only way to spray this formula is with an air assisted airless.

-Ace- 

I plan to use my HVLP.....

 

Looking at the General finishes site it looks like the recommend that it only be applied by spray. 

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You need to find something formulated to spray with an HVLP. Paints are very thick, hence you need an AAA sprayer. You need to read the tech data sheet with all coatings if you plan on spraying. 

So you're not up to taping off the kitchen and spraying everything hmm? 

I would talk with your SW guy if they have a coating complement of 1 product spray and 1 brush. 

 

-Ace-

3 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

I would go with the Enduro by General Finishes. Check out their website,I'm pretty sure you can spray or brush it . Not sure about rolling it.

Unfortunately, it's a spray only.......it's dries pretty fast.  

 

-Ace-

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Just thought of something,

 

I would suggest General Finish Milk Paint. It's a paint formulated for wood. It sprays excellent and you can brush. Please don't use a roller.

For added protection in the kitchen, wet fingers, grease, you know the rest.... my advice, you should apply a clear topcoat.  

 

General Finishes Milk Paint

 

 

 

Tech Data Sheet For GF Milk Paint

 

 

-Ace-

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ProClassic sprays just fine with a good airless rig.  I bought an AAA rig, and sold it soon after I used it a couple of times.  I needed a new gun for my old airless rig, and bought one of the new ones that uses the same FF (fine finish) tips as the AAA.  It changed the game, and I no longer needed the AAA.  

The air assist blows out the hard edges of the fan, but the new gun allows you to use a lower pressure so that it's no longer a problem.

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4 hours ago, hawkeyestoob said:

I had considered that but was uncertain about how it would hold up to the wear and tare of the kitchen environment.

Plus General Finishes Milk paint comes in limited colors.

Benjamin Moore Advance is great.  I like the way it brushes.  I used it in satin.  Nice sheen.  I think it looks much better than the stuff I painted with the milk paint.  But a couple of hints are that it dries to the touch it a normal time, but it takes a long time to cure to final hardness.  It will continue to harden for something like 30 days according to the TDS.  It is best not to rush it when putting the next coat on.  The TDS says minimum recoat time is 16 hours at a specific temperature and RH, but brushing with a thicker coat or less than optimum conditions means you need to wait longer.  Put a coat on and wait at least 24 hours between coats.  I think I let it dry for two days before putting the net coat on.

Another trick is that it wet sands great  and you can use that trick to remove brush strokes.  You have to let it dry long enough before wet sanding.  I think I waited a couple of days before I did it.  It pays to experiment on stuff that doesn't show and you can get a job with a brush that looks better than a lot of spray jobs.

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On 1/31/2017 at 10:48 PM, Hurricane Dry said:

Benjamin Moore Advance is great.  I like the way it brushes.

Thanks for the input and thoughts. Knowing that it can be wet sanded is a big plus. I was already leaning towards the BM Advance based on the positive reviews I have seen and the reports of people having success with brushing and with spraying with HVLP. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doing my cabinets with Annie Sloan chalk paint. I have thinned it with water so I can spray and have had decent results.  I am using a way to small air compressor and a gun from harbor freight with no issues.

 

I did did learn the hard way though I needed to put down a couple coats of shellac to seal the wood.

After a week or so the tannins started to bleed through about 4 coats of paint and 2 coats of zinnser primer on the cabinet body and several doors. Went back and applied 2 coats of shellac, repainted and have not had any issues since. 

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