Curtis Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Looking for some help with a new WWII 40t combo blade. I have 1.5hp SS and have used the lights out of the factory blade with good results. Just decided to upgrade for the heck of it to the Forrest and see how she would run as I made 6 large picture frames out of some hard maple. It is burning like crazy on rip cuts! ??? On the same piece of wood, I ran the WWII, which had a lot of burning/scorching. Then I popped it out, put back in my cleaned factory blade, and there was a small amount of burning, but nothing compared the WWII. Any ideas why I would be getting so much more burning with this nice brand new $$ blade. The stock is only 3/4 in thick, and I have the blade up high, pushing it through as fast as it will take it. Also getting blade/teeth marks on the cut. Also, both are standard kerf. THanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 The WWII does tend to have tighter side clearances than some blades, which can lead to increased burning, plus maple burns pretty easily, but 3/4" should be fine. Raising the blade should help, but you've already done that. Given that the stock blade is performing better, assuming you've checked alignment and setup, I suspect there may be an issue with the Forrest blade. I'd contact them and see what they say. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 I would check the saw for alignment, blade to table and fence to table. Something could be out just enough to add to a possible blade problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 I'll add that a 40 tooth blade would not be my choice for ripping burn-prone material. Sine the stock blade (which is pretty average) has served you well, it may be that it has not shown some alignment issues that a more precision cutter would show. As knottscott stated, the geometry of he WWII is different than your stock blade. The WWII is a "one size fits all" blade that by design, has to compromise all tasks somewhat in order to have a wider use capability. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 I agree with gd that a 40 tooth blade is not ideal for ripping...but you shouldn't be getting burning in 3/4" material, regardless of species. Something is wrong. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Thanks guys. Snow day here! So gonna check blade alignment on my day off and give her another go. I did that when I first got the saw but not since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Okay. Checked alignment of blade to fence. It widens .003 at the tail end of the blade. And just for reference here is some 3/4" Poplar that shows the burning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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