Upgrade Tables Saw or get new tool


salphonso

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Hey everyone.  I have been attempting to be a woodworker for about 2-3 years now.  It has grown from a every other weekend hobby to an every afternoon working on a project hobby.  I have been building anything from builtin pantry storage to a desk.  My current active projects are a builtin Desk with hutch and a full size Arcade cabinet.  Anyways, back to the topic at hand.

The main tools I currently have and use often are (not in any specific order) :
Bosch 1617 Router and custom built router table, Dewalt 734 Planar, Modded Harbor Freight Dust Collector with Thien baffle, Ridgid R4512 Table Saw, Dewalt Circular saw, Stanley block plane, low angle jack plane and routing plane.

My shop is a 2 car attached garage and I keep everything mobile in case my wife needs to park, usually only when its storming or cold.  Cold is rarely the problem in Louisiana.

I am planning on a a purchase soon but am crossed if I should get a band saw, jointer, festool track saw, or upgrade my table saw.  I have been pretty disappointed with the ridgid.  First I had blade wobble which they addressed in multiple stages. The final fix for that was them sending me a whole new arbor and I had replaced it myself.  Long story but the tech who was suppose to work on it didn't even understand what I was having shipped to him from Ridgid.  The constant fence alignment issues still plague me.  I constantly get burn on long rip cuts and it's just a very under powered saw for cutting hardwoods and thick boards that I have found myself using lately.  That being said, it does get the job done.  I just tend to spend more time tweaking it before each cutting session starts.

Ultimately I know I am the only one who can decide just looking for some guidance if it's out there.  Should I suffer through with the Ridgid for now and get a jointer or other tool that will open new avenues of wood working for me?  Or upgrade the Table saw?

I am looking at a budget of about $1300-1500 and tool brand and model recommendations are greatly appreciated as well.

thanks, Scott

 

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Hey bud, welcome to the forum. I almost disagreed with Kev (TIODS) but I realize how much preliminary ripping, I do on my bandsaw, so, I totally agree. And my jointer went from a luxury to a necessity, that I can't dispute that either. However, I love a tablesaw that will do what you ask it too. 

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I would definitely get a tool you don't have before upgrading your tablesaw. With that budget i don't think you would get something much better than what you already have.

I would get a jointer if I were you. I have never done a woodworking project in all my years woodworking without one. I have completed many projects without a tracksaw and bandsaw.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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I will have to look at all my upcoming projects, I'm pretty sure they will all lead me to benefiting more from a jointer.  I'm a visual guy though so I have to write it out all the pros and cons regardless...  Would you all recommend spending any money and maybe upgrading the fence of the Ridgid table saw?  I believe that is its biggest weakness but still not even sure I should spend any money on that.

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I would pick up the best jointer and band saw that you can afford and then worry about the fence on the table saw. learn from your history and buy tools that you won't have to replace in the near future.

I completely understand a table saw that's not up to par but, as you said, you can make it work.  The jointer and band saw are tools that aren't in your shop.  I agree with Shane that it's better to add what you don't have/need before upgrading something you have.  

 

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Thanks everyone. Great info and a great welcome to the forum.  You all make very good arguments and all basically lead to the same point.  I think a jointer will be the purchase I make.  

TIODS, I would have never bought this table saw.  It was a gift.  Quite honestly, at the time it was given to me, I probably would have bought much worse and regretted it.  

I wont hammer you all with questions of what jointer and what size as those questions are all over the forum with enough info to help me decide where to spend my money in that regards.

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6 minutes ago, salphonso said:

Thanks everyone. Great info and a great welcome to the forum.  You all make very good arguments and all basically lead to the same point.  I think a jointer will be the purchase I make.  

TIODS, I would have never bought this table saw.  It was a gift.  Quite honestly, at the time it was given to me, I probably would have bought much worse and regretted it.  

I wont hammer you all with questions of what jointer and what size as those questions are all over the forum with enough info to help me decide where to spend my money in that regards.

Well, regardless of how you ended up with the saw, lesson learned.

There's a bunch of info on what jointer to buy in the history here.  As always, that depends on your budget and work flow.  Same thing for the band saw.  The gang here is great about tossing out their views if you get jammed up on particulars so, don't hesitate to post..

 

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It really depends on how you like to work, and what you'll be doing.  It also depends on what that chunk of money means to your lifestyle and overall budget. My shop is table saw centric, and I'd go nuts futzing with a TS that wasn't cooperating....it's an important tool to me, while most of the others play a supporting role.  Having a jointer is nice, but being a family man with kids means I don't see big chunks of money available to spend on tools very often, so I'd take advantage of the rare opportunity to get the best TS I could afford, and would never look back.  Then I would consider a used jointer some time in the future. Your budget will put a Grizzly G1023RL to your door....then you can buy a used jointer with the proceeds from selling your Ridgid.  YMMV, but after that, life would be grand for me!  ;-) 

g1023rl-9585eecfd1cd66d071438be26fece351

 

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11 hours ago, salphonso said:

 I constantly get burn on long rip cuts and it's just a very under powered saw for cutting hardwoods and thick boards that I have found myself using lately.

Although alignment can exhibit these symptoms, as much as you've fussed with the saw I will assume the blade is square to the miter gauge and fence.  Therefor you may want to look to a relatively cheap alternative; your blades.  Are you running a 24 tooth, thin kerf blade when you rip?  Do you have a 60 tooth, thin kerf blade for crosscuts?  If not (and your saw is aligned) a couple hundred bucks could solve a load of problems.

All that rambling that you didn't ask for aside . . . :) . . . I vote for a jointer.  A jointer and planer are a team.  Although I went far with a planer sled to handle my face jointing, I enjoy a dedicated machine.

If you are going to work with sheet goods, and hardwoods are only for trim and structural pieces, a 6" jointer will carry you far.  If you plan to glue up hardwood panels, use single piece drawer fronts, make cabinet door panels, etc. something a bit wider will make a lot of difference in your world.

In your budget range the Grizzly G0490XW manages to spend all your money but, the cost saving with an insert cutter head is well documented.  My older G0490X has made up the difference in price for the spiral head years ago and has been money in the bank ever since.  Its not an Italian machine but, that would be the next major step up in my experience.

Your need for a full sized bandsaw will come but, for now I would fill out the requirements to mill stock quickly and easily and tackle some more projects.

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1 hour ago, salphonso said:

The blade I am using is a Freud 50 tooth combination blade

Right, way too many teeth for ripping material that thick.  I have a 3HP saw and a 30 tooth rip for most things.  For thicker stock I still put a 24 tooth TK cutter on.  Easier on the saw, the material and me ;-)

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I've got the same saw. My current project is a Roubo work bench in hard maple, so there's been a lot of ripping 8/4 stock. Switching to a thin kerf ripping blade makes a big difference. The couple of times I forgot and used the combination blade for a rip, the saw struggled a bit.

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1 hour ago, salphonso said:

So, I always thought more teeth to avoid tear-out.  I have a zero clearance insert to help avoid that as well.  Guess I'll be ordering some blades soon as well.

If all else is equal, more teeth tends to equate to a cleaner cut and less tear out, but with more resistance, more heat, more chance of burning. If all else is equal, fewer teeth tends to equate to a faster cut, with less resistance, less burning, but a rougher finish. Neither extreme or design parameter is ideal for all situations, and neither extreme or paremeter is “better” in all situations…they’re just better suited for different applications.

Tips for Picking Saw Blades

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