Wood drawer slide tips


treesner

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Hey guys any tips to this type of drawer slide that rides on a piece of wood in the center and a dado in the drawer?

First issue I had was how to find where I need to take material off of when it starts getting to tight.

Once I did that I had a bit of play back and forth and if you don't pull very straight and even the drawer goes slightly sideways and makes it very difficult to open. I wonder if it needs a second spaced piece of wood at the top to keep it straight

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I think if is binding, it may be too loose. If the runner is held on with screws, you might put a paper shim behind it to make it snug. Wax the runners to make it work smoothly.

Yeah it does bind now, originally as I was removing runner material trying to figure out what was to right i took off to much on the face I guess. I usually wait till the end to wax up but since this is a test piece I threw some on and man it made a difference. I think I'm going to add a third guide on the very bottom to keep it straight since it's not working that smoothly now

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I did a 10 drawer dresser with those type of slides.  I finessed the fit with a shoulder plane and a router plane.  That worked for me.  I would be very careful adding the third guide as it must fit just about perfect or it's just another opportunity for binding.  Lots of the other guys have more experience with this than me so I expect they'll chime in too.  Good luck!

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I make mine adjustable.  Oversize through holes and counter bores allow the pan head screw and washer to set in and still allow adjustment.  Washer head screws would do fine as well.  This also allows them to be removed for planning if required but, you should really do that before you start attaching things ;-)

Once aligned, screws in the smaller holes fix the guide in place.

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Nice technique

Does the height of the rails play any roll? I think my situation is tricky because my drawers are so short which doesn't allow the drawer to keep itself as straight

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I tried two fixes to the current state of the project one with two shims at the top as guides and one with a guide rail on the bottom and dado in the drawer bottom. The shims work pretty well (not ideal aesthetically). The bottom rail broke off first time trying to pull out from the tension (should probably add a screw but hard to get in there)

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5 hours ago, treesner said:

Does the height of the rails play any roll?

If you mean the height relative to the height of the drawer, I usually place them in the middle.  If you mean height as far as the height of the slide, I make it to fit the groove like a glove so that tipping isn't really a problem on short drawers.  "Kickers" can be installed just above the drawer box sides so that if the drawer tries to drop, the sides hit the kicker and ride on out.

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i assume treesner that you have checked the drawer and your base for square?, if they are not that could be some of your problem, the other thing i see as an issue is that you will have to install some guide strips on top of your slides in the case to prevent the drawer from binding, they should be flush with the inside of the leg, wax or a product called slip-it for wood slides will help greatly.

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i assume treesner that you have checked the drawer and your base for square?, if they are not that could be some of your problem, the other thing i see as an issue is that you will have to install some guide strips on top of your slides in the case to prevent the drawer from binding, they should be flush with the inside of the leg, wax or a product called slip-it for wood slides will help greatly.

e2bbfc4fabcc3dc2e7ecb634ff15e8a2.jpg

I think I tried what you're talking about (shown on the left) this did make the drawer slide better however doesn't look that great, maybe if I cut it back a little so it's not flush..

When it was to tight at the very end I was trying to figure out a technique to show where it was jamming. Tried putting chalk on one side in hopes it would run the highs spot but that didn't work

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Have you waxed the slides? In well fitted drawers, a sticking point on one side can be what pulls you off square. Are the guides smaller than the channels? You want to be sure that no part of the bottom of the guide ever drags. 

I was going to ask what part you'd want to be snug and what part you'd want looser. Seems like above and below should have a small gap but the inside should be as tight as possible so you don't get the binding like I'm getting

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