Saw Stop offers 4 models with 4 different stock fences, so the discussion about them should be specific to be meaningful. At 1.75hp and having a full enclosure, I'm assuming you're talking about the PCS model...the stock fence on that is their "Premium" 30" fence, and IMO is not as good as their "T-Glide" fence or the "Accufence" on the PM1000/PM2000/PM64b, which are both good Biese style copies. Fortunately the SS T-Glide fence is an option for the PCS that I think you'd be wise to go with. While both are very well built saws, neither the PCS or the PM1000 are quite on the same level as the industrial cabinet saws like the PM2000, Saw Stop ICS, Unisaw, Grizzly G1023RL, G0690, Jet Xacta, or Laguna Platinum. Are you limited to 120v?
I ran into a small problem. When I designed this, the legs were thicker and all of the tenons are still based on that. Since I changed it up to have 1" thick legs, my tenons are too long, maybe too wide, and they overlap one another. Which one of these will be the best way to go from here, or should I do something altogether different? Kill the tenons, throw some pocketholes in it and call it a day? I keed, I keed.
Here's a reference image
If I offset the one from the long support, I can get 1/2" x 1/2" tenons in there but it seems like the space between them is really close. Would that make this weak?
If I change them to 1/4" x 3/8" they fit better but they just look tiny to me but this wood is strong as hell so... I could offset the tenons from the long support and that'll allow more space between, if this would be an issue.
Somebody hold my hand and show me where I need to go.
Making this simple table for my four year old daughter so she has somewhere
to put her bedside torch at night. Just have to round over the sharp edges on
he top and the bottom of the legs, final sanding, glue up the base, attach the
top to the base, and then finish with a water based poly.
I have only been doing this a few years now but its very satisfying! This is the
first table top i have jointed together, Milled all the wood from rough sawn timber.
I know for me, my jointer isn't great and has some of the same behavior you alluded to ("sometimes it makes things worse"), so I've almost been annoyed enough to upgrade it at times...but I usually remember that I use other things (like the TS and track saw) pretty much every day that I'm in the shop, so I chose to prioritize spending based on how much I use them and got a better table saw and a track saw instead.
1- There are several formulas you might use. In the end, things are worth what people will pay for them. Check out what other people are charging for similar things. Since you aren't trying to make a living doing this, start out with a high price and lower it over time.
2-They find you, not the other way around. Your job is to become discoverable.-You need some kind of portfolio to show what you can do. Read about various forms of online marketing and sales. Even if you are only selling locally, there is a decent chance people will find you online. A website will be helpful.
I think the most important question someone in your position can ask is "What can I make that other people want to buy?" Remember, its not just about what YOU want to build. Your future customers are generally calling the shots about what gets built. I'd argue that woodworkers fall into the larger category of "furniture connoisseur". We see things differently than the average person. This doesn't mean we know what they want to buy. I'd guess that the vast majority of woodworkers who sell their work, aren't doing exactly what they want to on every job.