Stampy Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Gotta make a cross cut sled for the table saw. I was thinking of making it left of the blade only, out of MDF. Let me know what you think Stampy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben H Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 What do you mean left of the blade only? Like only use one miter slot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stampy Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 What do you mean left of the blade only? Like only use one miter slot? Yeah, I was thinking that it only needs to ride in one slot making it easier to handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimB1 Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Yeah, I was thinking that it only needs to ride in one slot making it easier to handle. I don't know, I tried that once and it felt really off balance to me. Especially when you have longer cutoff pieces. I also found that when you are completely on one side of the blade, there's a second when you make the cut that you can't see the blade and the next time you can. it's behind the sled open and uncovered which made me a little nervous as I found myself using my right hand more towards the right side of the sled to put more strength into the part going through the blade. It just made me uncomfortable to use that sled. It also had an issue with cutting smaller crosscuts (like 1" x 2" when you cut off a 2 or 3") piece where sometimes when it got to the end of the cut, it would throw the cutoff piece off the table. You'd be standing to the left of the blade so it wasn't crazy dangerous but it was disconcerting when it happened. Usually not with a lot of force like a kickback but enough to throw you off your game. My newer sled rides in both slots and has a area behind it when the blade comes through that is completely surounded for 8 inches or so. It has a plexiglass cover over it as a chip guard and so I can see where the blade is at all times. My hands can't get anywhere near the blade no matter where I put them on the back of the sled. I can get very consistent, repeatable cuts while staying safely behind the jig. It just works for me... -Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 The other thing about a sled that supports the workpiece on both sides of the blade is that it helps to prevent tearout, sort of like a zero-clearance insert. A left-side-only sled wouldn't help as much in that regard. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 I have done blog posts for both types of sleds, single runner and dual runner. Imo the dual runner is more accurate. http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/01/13/giant-crosscut-sled/ http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2010/10/11/crosscut-sled/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Hi. You may want to try this. I built one and it is my go to jig. http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stampy Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Right on! Some very valuable advice there guy's thanks for that. It would seem that a guy could use 2 or 3 of these. 1 larger, one for smaller tasks and another for a dado stack for box joints and such. In your collective opinions is MDF appropriate for the base? 1/2 inch? Or 3/4? Thanks again. Stampy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 In your collective opinions is MDF appropriate for the base? 1/2 inch? Or 3/4? 1/2 inch is more than enough. 3/4" just wastes valuable cutting height, & makes it more difficult to move around the shop, because of the extra weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 There are tons of magazine articles out there on CrossCut Sleds. But right now Handyman Magazine has a very simple to build and basic crosscut sled in the issue that is currently on the newstand. You can recognize the issue because there is a large pergola on the cover. It may help to answer some of your questions. If you need additional resources let me know. I'm kind of anal about my mags and so I have a descent cataloging system and I can probably direct you to no less then 5 articles on building CrossCut sleds. Good luck. Chet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stampy Posted February 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Thanks for that Chet but my wife has put my on a 12 step program to cure my magazine addiction. Maybe I can sneak the magazine into the shop where she'll never see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimB1 Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 1/2 inch is more than enough. 3/4" just wastes valuable cutting height, & makes it more difficult to move around the shop, because of the extra weight. I second the 1/2". My current sled is 3/4" ply because that's what I had lying around at the time and it weighs a ton. You're probably going to find that you'll make a sled and use it a while then find all the stuff you'd like to do differently and make another one. I'm on generation 3 now but gen 4 I think is going to happen soon. Lots of new ideas for how to make it better... thinner ply is just one -Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_in_SD Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 I need to create a cross cut sled (two runner) that has a replaceable insert in the center. I want to be able to use one sled for both normal and dado blade cuts. Don't want two sleds. Looking for ideas on how to incorporate the changeable insert into the design. You guys have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Neat idea! I may steal it. Here's what I'd do, off the top of my head. Essentially, make a sled that has a space for an insert, like a table saw insert. The insert fits into a recess that you cut with a router. It is held down by countersunk screws and captive nuts that are epoxied into the bed. Obviously, the screws and nuts are positioned far enough from the blade that there won't be any contact. Then, make some inserts that fit the recess, drill the holes and countersinks, screw the insert into the sled, and make your first cut to create the kerf. The cut will splt the insert completely in half, but since both sides are screwed in place you should be fine. I might cut the recess a little under the back fence, so that the insert slips under the fence and there's no gap where the fence meets the insert. I think at the front this is not an issue; it's OK if the insert doesn't go all the way to the front fence, and there's a bit of chewed up sled bed exposed before the insert starts. That's assuming that you usually hold your piece against the back fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stampy Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 I need to create a cross cut sled (two runner) that has a replaceable insert in the center. I want to be able to use one sled for both normal and dado blade cuts. Don't want two sleds. Looking for ideas on how to incorporate the changeable insert into the design Good call SD. Now thats using your head! I like it! You could have the throat plate extend the whole width of the sled and mount it to the underside of the front and rear fence. That way it would be mounted into more substantial stock. Sketch Up here I come...... Stampy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomP Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 I need to create a cross cut sled (two runner) that has a replaceable insert in the center. I want to be able to use one sled for both normal and dado blade cuts. Don't want two sleds. Looking for ideas on how to incorporate the changeable insert into the design. You guys have any ideas? SD, I think I saw just the one your looking for on the WoodSmith site under "free" plans. I was thinking of building it myself. I am pretty sure it has an adjustment for dado's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petersb Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Gotta make a cross cut sled for the table saw. I was thinking of making it left of the blade only, out of MDF. Let me know what you think Stampy If you want accuracy and clean cuts, go with the full sled that rides in both slots and on both sides of the blade. You can get accuracy out of the left side only sled but the cut offs just fall off of the end. Left side only makes a great cut off sled for rough cutting to length on wide boards. I also have the dual runner, full size sled. They both have their advantages. I also made on for dados. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 I need to create a cross cut sled (two runner) that has a replaceable insert in the center. I want to be able to use one sled for both normal and dado blade cuts. Don't want two sleds. Looking for ideas on how to incorporate the changeable insert into the design. You guys have any ideas? I've seen a solution to both needs, and provides an easy restoration to e a cross cut sled that has lost it's zero clearance. I've done it on my sled, and it works quite well. You can build it with either a 1/2" base and a 1/4" overlay, or a 3/4 " base and a 1/4" inset. They work the same, but the 3/4" base provides a bit more strength. Basically, when you are building the sled, cut a channel dado in the base wide enough to accommodate any size dado set, as well as a regular blade. The config is like this: 3/4" dadoed to 1/2" for the insert area, say 2" wide, and cut the insert to fit the opening. Use screws to hold the 1/4" inserts in place. Then install the full width insert, and raise the blade up through it. Viola! Zero clearance and removable and replaceable inserts. This works for any blade combination. Hope this is of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOneHandedHandyMan Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I agree with using a dual runner. I used a single runner CC sled for a while before I realized that the cutoffs weren't supported properly leading to tear out issues, etc. I am currently using a 3/4" base but strongly recommend 1/2" because this thing is massive and weighs a ton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbarr87 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Hey, has anyone ever clamped a long board to a crosscut sled? Would clamping both sides be safe? Im worried about binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 I think it's safe, for the same reason that making a non-through cut is safe (and using a Grrr-ripper is safe). The problem with trapping an off-cut between the fence and the blade is that the off cut can fall into the blade. In the case, you are holding the offcut so it can't fall into the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I would think that a "left side only sled" would be called a miter gauge with out the benefit of adjustable angles. Also, I built my sled using 1/4" plywood for the base. I felt that the only thing the base does is hold the back fence 90 degrees to the miter slots and with the front fence which helps hold the whole thing together. Also, 1/4" ply gives me a little more cutting area on the blade. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 I have built the one from Eagle Lake woodworking, found here: http://www.eaglelake...Miter-Sled.aspx It is by far the most used jig in my arsenal. There are 2 changes I would make to the design. First, make the base of 1/2 " Finn-Birch plywood, with a second 1/4' layer of Finn-Birch, with a section set as a replaceable zero clearance insert. Second, build it to accommodate at least 24 1/2" insid, to enable use for larger projects. My 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 I would think that a "left side only sled" would be called a miter gauge with out the benefit of adjustable angles. "One slot" sleds can be useful for cutting a little off of a piece, for example for cutting tapers or squaring up one edge. I wouldn't want to do either with a miter gauge. But, I agree that they aren't the best for cross-cutting, unless you're just taking a bit off the end of the piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kesac Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Hi. You may want to try this. I built one and it is my go to jig. http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx That is pretty fancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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