Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
bmchan

Table saw arbor nut

12 posts in this topic

I went to change a blade in my TS and the arbor spins when I try to remove the nut. How can I fix it??? Yes I know which way to turn it. I clearly overtightened it. I installed a thinner plywood blade (80 tooth Freud) that I hadn't used in long time. The TS is a Grizzly 1022 contractor saw. Everything turns including the motor/belt.

Any help appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some saws have a lock button which keeps the arbor from spinning so you can tighten or loosen the arbor nut. On the rest, you use two wrenches: one to hold the arbor stationary and the other to turn the nut. Thos saws have flats on the arbor for the wrench to grab.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. I was getting ready to remove the right-hand top wing to look for that. I tried a fix that worked and I will post here to close the post.

Jam a hardwood wedge between the pulley and the belt and then turn the nut. Worked like a charm.

I'm in the middle of two projects and could not afford the downtime - even though this is a hobby.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should be able to do it by removing only the insert. Here's what the manual recommends:

change%20blade.PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, when all else fails, grab the manual, LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should be able to do it by removing only the insert. Here's what the manual recommends:

change%20blade.PNG

You didn't understand the post my friend. The arbor and belt (and motor) turned with the bolt. There was little resistance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You didn't understand the post my friend. The arbor and belt (and motor) turned with the bolt. There was little resistance.

In my first post I mentioned the lock button style and the two wrenches style, I forgot the simplest method where you just use a piece of scrap wood to keep the blade from spinning.

Essentially, you figured out the proper method on your own. You just put the piece of wood in the pulley instead of the blade.

I apologize if you wasted time looking for something that wasn't there, because of my first post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my first post I mentioned the lock button style and the two wrenches style, I forgot the simplest method where you just use a piece of scrap wood to keep the blade from spinning.

Essentially, you figured out the proper method on your own. You just put the piece of wood in the pulley instead of the blade.

I apologize if you wasted time looking for something that wasn't there, because of my first post.

Picture this - you have a piece of wood locking the blade from spinning and the wrench turns the nut, the arbor and the belt (any therefore the motor). Somehow I have failed to communicate clearly - sorry for the confusion. I have changed hundreds of blades.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you explained it well - I've just never seen a case where the nut was loose enough to let the blade spin, but resisted turning enough to turn the arbor, pulley, belt, and motor. So, I assumed that you just didn't know how to change a blade. My mistake.

Now that you've got the nut off, did you find any rust or dirt on the threads? I'd clean the threads with a wire brush and protect them with some oil or wax before putting the nut back on. But it sounds like you are one step ahead of me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey! Did you happen to notice any red teflon coating had come off onto the arbor washer? I had this problem once and I think this had something to do with it.

Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was about to ask if there was an arbor washer in place capnjack when you asked about teflon sticking to it. bmchan...do you have a proper arbor washer in place? If so...even the old Rockwell I inherited has a two flat spots on the arbor where a thin wrench can be slid on in order to hold the arbor from spinning when loosening the arbor nut...does your saw have something like that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I remember how it happened to me. I usually use one wrench and a piece of scrap to keep the blade from spinning. It was a Freud also. Well, it must have been too tight, like you said, Bmchan. Anyway, the whole arbor was turning and so was the motor, etc. So got out the other wrench and held the arbor still while I took off the nut. Noticed a lot of red on the washer so I sanded it off and put on the new blade.

Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Anna! Glad to have you join. That's some really nice work, and an excellent journal. Keep the updates coming, we LOVE to see pictures!
    • I suspect that the veneer is simply not flexible enough to form around the tight corners of the recess without splitting. You might try steaming or boiling the veneer to soften it. This would probably require a glue that cures in the presence of moisture, similar to the 'Gorrilla Glue' original. Veneering is not my thing, maybe a better answer will appear shortly.
    • We have a problem in MDF panel natural wood veneering.
      We intend to natural wood veneering cabinet and CNC machined 3d panel (with MDF core). We tested it with 0.3mm back fleeced wood veneer and the following glue:
      http://www.glue4u.com/index.php/data-sheets/tds-a-msds/jowat/436-150-90-tds
      We also use membrane hot press machine without vacuum capability. Unfortunately it didn’t work correctly. The wood veneer didn’t form well, especially in the concave area. You can see the final result of our failed test in the following link:
      http://postimg.org/image/cpt2ifz19
      http://postimg.org/image/urc7g8t25
      Can someone help me? Should I change the type of veneer or glue? Do you have any idea?
      Thank you in advance.  
    • Welcome to the forums Anna!  Pretty cool looking project!  Nice work as well!
    • I’m new to this forum, but have enjoyed looking at some of the other projects people are posting.  Thought I’d share a work in progress…   I’m working on an adjustable height table that will convert from a coffee table height to a desk/worktable height using a pulley system.  There’s a little model of the table below, along with some of the full size legs before shaping.    The model has rubber bands running between the dowels connecting the tops of the legs, but right now the plan is for that to be a pulley system on the full size version.   I’ve got part of the shaping on the legs done.     Still working on the mechanism that is going to hold these together in place of the dowels in the model.  Right not, I’m thinking a metal pipe with a threaded rod on the inside so I can add some wooden nuts to the outside to hold it tight.  I made a few prototypes of the “nuts” with a T-nut embedded in them to provide metal threads.  I don’t have pictures of that yet though.    The table top is a live edge tope inspired by the Scott Lewis cutting board from fine woodworking.  If you haven’t seen the video, it’s amazing…   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4   I cut the slab below in half, but wanted to disguise the joint between the two pieces, especially because it’s such a figured board.     I made a curved template with a ½ inch gap using the router, and then used each side of the template to cut the curves on the top and bottom of the slabs.  This is the 2 pieces next to each other with the ½ inch gap in between.   Then I filled the gap with a ½ inch ribbon using maple, wenge, and cherry strips and clamped it up. I trimmed the excess with a Japanese saw and a block plane.       I’m planning to add another 2-3 ribbons, and tentatively planned them out with tape. I’ve cut the first one using another MDF template and a ¼ inch router bit with a guide bushing, cut about ¾ inch deep groove.  So far, I’ve got that once glued up and will add the rest of the ribbons in sequence.  You can see some of my templates at the top of the picture below.   Still a work in progress, but it’s been a fun project so far.  
  • Popular Contributors

  • Who's Chatting

    There are no users currently in the chat room