Posted 05 July 2011 - 03:24 PM
I have heard that you can put a board under your thin piece to get the piece above the planer's minimum depth. I would like to try this, but I have no idea what this sort of jig might look like. If I am looking for 1/8" final width, how to I make a jig so that I can make that a repeatable procedure? how do I keep the thin board from shooting all over the place when the knifes hit it? I understand the concept, just not how to do it.
Thanks in advance.
Posted 05 July 2011 - 03:36 PM
That's how I've seen it done successfully; I haven't used that for veneers/laminates since I have a drum sander so just passing it along.
Posted 06 July 2011 - 04:32 AM
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Posted 13 July 2011 - 03:52 PM
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Posted 03 August 2011 - 09:12 AM
I realize it's not cost effective to do rubber cement for large pieces. I have a few small pieces I've been holding on to for a project, but I don't have a reliable way of sanding all of these to the same thickness.
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Posted 05 August 2011 - 07:33 AM
I use both of them for fixing paper patterns to wood for scroll sawing and I feel that they would work for the planer.
First, I have used double sided carpet tape with good success BUT, I use the cheapest carpet tape that Ace hardware sells. "Light Duty" . It is a plastic and doesn't have a real strong bond so that it can be separated fairly easy using a heat gun or hair dryer and a knife or putty knife.
Second, I cover the wood with blue painters tape and then spray glue on the pattern. For wood to wood, I would cover both pieces with blue tape and then spray glue the tape of one piece to the tape of the other piece and it should be fairly easy to pull the pieces apart as the blue tape isn't very strong.
In either case, it is surprising what "Mom's old hair dryer" or some "mineral spirits" can do to glue that doesn't mess up wood or break small, thin bits on a project.
Posted 06 August 2011 - 05:01 AM
This is mine
I need to learn how to add pictures, if you know please tell me and I can change the this to something you can use