Hand Saw Sharpening
Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:28 AM
Posted 21 August 2010 - 03:11 PM
Posted 21 August 2010 - 03:18 PM
A poorly sharpened saw will still work better than a dull saw.
Posted 24 August 2010 - 03:01 PM
I just eyeballed it and filed each tooth until I saw the reflection on the round tip go away. Didn't take too long once I got a rythm going and I was actually quite pleased with the results. Now I wonder what I could achieve with some practice and some decent steel. It was pretty cool being able to say "I did that!"
Posted 24 August 2010 - 07:57 PM
My wife took the shop camera on a trip but... The saw has been set (following advice to set rip saws at a half setting so 8 not 4) and then joined. Last thing is to resharpen the teeth. Also as a side note, I got new files from LN and the files are thicker like the diffrence between a taper and an extra slim taper from the one I got from tools for working wood. These new files are also Grobert and don't have their style named on them unlike the Nicholsen files I'm accustomed to. The files from LN do appear to be more appropriate sized for this size tooth than the TFWW one, as they could be used on all three corners with a fresh cutting area where as the TFWW one was almost burried in the cut and Dulled quickly cause of it. I'll post pictures of them to better show this when I get my camera back.
Are you the only weekend warrior who resharpens? Heck no, resharpening is easy-ish. Ok you get a lot better at it by the last tooth I'll admit. Just make sure you match up the proper size/kind file to the # of TPI. Vintage Saws has a lot of good info on their website just a little hard to navigate so does Bad Axe tools and they will sharpen them if you go that route. My current project is retoothing one of my Grandpa's old Disston saws from 8 to 4 TPI. Good luck.