Runners for a Cross-Cut Sled


Mapleman55

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I got a Craftsman table saw and want to make a cross-cut sled. However, the slots on the Craftsman are nnarrower at the top than the bottom. I'd need to rout the tops of the runners thinner on each side of the tops (OK if I had a router!!!!). I called Craftsman Parts Direct and the won't sell the bar stock by itself, have to buy the whole gauge assy for $25.00. I'm looking for enough bar stock to make a couple different jigs, No one in my circle of friends has a router, nor are there any clubs in the area, Any suggestions?

Up The Creek without runners :(

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I think you are talking about T-tracks, which keep the gauge from tipping up out of the slot.

Most people just use rectangular runners sized to the smaller width in their sleds, jogs, etc.

If you really want T-track stock, you can buy it online from places like Rockler and Woodcraft. I bought a yard of it from McMaster Carr; I find their prices are cheaper for stuff like this because you're not paying for marketing. In other words, they don't say, "This is good for making jigs for your woodworking table saw." They say "We sell aluminum extrusion sin the following shapes."

EDIT: I couldn't find any T-bar at McMaster-Carr or Rockler, but I did find it at Peachtree. See this thread for lots of info on making runners.

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Mapleman - if you google "craftsman table saw miter slot" you should find some relevant posts. It looks like more than a few people have been hit by this. The 2 most common approaches, from what I can see, are:

- file or grind the little nibs off

- shape the runner to match the existing shape of the slots.

I think either way you're in for some work, since the slots do not seem to be standard size at all

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Use baltic birch ply. Edge plane it for a snug fit on YOUR saw.

I know this suggestion sounds weird, but I know several woodworking schools in the Northeast that use BB runners, one is relatively famous and in Boston, and they stay snug for-ev-er...

Why? 1/2 of the edge is END GRAIN, the hardest of grain orientation. Besides being hard, the end grain will hold wax, which will burnish into a HARD, smooth, very stable, runner surface.

The first time I heard this, it was counterintuitive to me, too... try it.

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Another option would be to use some high density plastic cut to the width and thickness of the miter tracks. Screw these to the bottom of the sled and it works really well. Slides real smooth, doesn't expand or contract with the seasons. All you would need to cut this would be your table saw. The plastic machines and cuts similar to wood.

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