15 replies to this topic

[linkmx674]

a friend of mine has told me that he runs is pieces on the jointer after he rips them to the size he needs plus room to edge joint? does anyone else use this technique? of coarse he joints one face and edge then planes to size before he rips and final edge joint. thanks guys. Link l

[John Fitz]

Link, it's pretty straightforward to rip a pice about 1/16 wider than needed and then use the jointer to get to final size. This is needed if the edge left by the TS is very rough. Many blades, especially "glue line" rip blades, are supposed to leave an edge that needs no jointing.

[linkmx674]

i don have a problem with that concept i just have never done it that way. i have issues with running small stock thru the ts. at the back of the blade when pushing thru i must not be keeping tight against fence and i get a little angle. i have no problem on larger stock with that happening. i was just running 1 1/4" thru for a cutting board tonite. guess i need to go and clean up all the pieces on jointer.

[John Fitz]

Link, whatever works for you! I usually do not joint a ripped edge - sometimes I do, but usually I count on a good sanding.

For your comment on small pieces - at a minimum, use a healthy push-stick (not just a stick - something fairly robust that gives good control of the small pieces). What I *really* recommend is the Grriper from Microjig. It gives great control of thin pieces all the way through the cut and after the cut. I got some after watching Marc's video episode 148 (http://thewoodwhispe...com/get-a-grip/) and I am really glad I did.

[fransikaner]

A good drum sander can also be useful with the small stock and you can really walk down the sizing.

[duckkisser]

linkmx674, on 04 February 2012 - 07:14 PM, said:

i don have a problem with that concept i just have never done it that way. i have issues with running small stock thru the ts. at the back of the blade when pushing thru i must not be keeping tight against fence and i get a little angle. i have no problem on larger stock with that happening. i was just running 1 1/4" thru for a cutting board tonite. guess i need to go and clean up all the pieces on jointer.

are you using a sacraficial push stick it helps if the push stick is pushing on both sides of the wood that way you have even pressure. just make a thick and wide board with a heel on it and a handle that you let the blade cut into

[jsiard]

I never trust the edge I get off the TS and will always take at least a pass or two with a hand plane

linkmx674, on 04 February 2012 - 07:14 PM, said:

i don have a problem with that concept i just have never done it that way. i have issues with running small stock thru the ts. at the back of the blade when pushing thru i must not be keeping tight against fence and i get a little angle. i have no problem on larger stock with that happening. i was just running 1 1/4" thru for a cutting board tonite. guess i need to go and clean up all the pieces on jointer.

I would check your fence alignment, it sounds like its out of parallel from your blade. I have mine set a couple thousands out from front to back which doesn't really affect the overall squarness but eliminates the little "nip" off the the end of the cut. I never cut with the fence set to the left of the blade so I'm not worried about the reverse happening and negates the need to re-adjust the fence.

[linkmx674]

John Fitz, on 04 February 2012 - 07:36 PM, said:

Link, whatever works for you! I usually do not joint a ripped edge - sometimes I do, but usually I count on a good sanding.

For your comment on small pieces - at a minimum, use a healthy push-stick (not just a stick - something fairly robust that gives good control of the small pieces). What I *really* recommend is the Grriper from Microjig. It gives great control of thin pieces all the way through the cut and after the cut. I got some after watching Marc's video episode 148 (http://thewoodwhispe...com/get-a-grip/) and I am really glad I did.

fitz what one of the micro jig do you have? the gr200 or 100? i checked them out and think i am buying it tonite! @ jsiard i have no problems with getting the nip on larger stock just on my small stock. that micro jig gripper looks awsome to have.

[CessnaPilotBarry]

As a guy too cheap to buy a Grripper, I set the blade only slightly higher than the thickness of the stock, then use a jointer style push block to move the wood on both sides of the blade.

Sure, you cut a groove in the rubber on the block, but they're really cheap and can be resurfaced with cheap mouse pad material.

Even with the blade low, if a glue line rip blade is used with a decent feed rate, you should end up with two perfect surfaces with no burning.

[duckkisser]

bary just pick up a 2 by 4 cut off the front part of bottom leaving a heal on the back and make a handle for the other side and you can then push it through the table saw and chew up a grove in sacrifical wood.

http://www.bing.com/...=91&FORM=IDFRIR


make it like this so its on end or put it so face is down on table saw that way you have even presure on both sides of the blade.

[franklin pug]

I sometimes leave furniture pieces a bit large, and then gang plane them (on edge) to final dimension so they are exactly the same size. This is a good technique to use for matching pieces like table aprons.

Other times, I'll use a handplane to smooth out a rough edge left by the tablesaw.

[John Fitz]

Link - I think it's the 200. I use them on the TS and also the jointer.

Barry - I agree this is definitely something you can make. A mousepad works well, as well as shelf liner material.

[linkmx674]

John Fitz, on 05 February 2012 - 07:34 PM, said:

Link - I think it's the 200. I use them on the TS and also the jointer.

Barry - I agree this is definitely something you can make. A mousepad works well, as well as shelf liner material.

just bought the micro jig grr ripper on amazon for $50 and also got the micro jig spliter since i do not have a riving knife on my ts just a blade guard system. yea i guess push pads from the router would work to but i got some bday money- so i went for it!

[John Fitz]

Good choice on the splitter. That alone should make a world of difference.

[CessnaPilotBarry]

Duck, I use those too... Well worth mentioning.

[Norwegianwoodworker]

fransikaner, on 04 February 2012 - 08:57 PM, said:

A good drum sander can also be useful with the small stock and you can really walk down the sizing.

Ant tips then of a good beefy drumsander.?
Seems to me the ones I have seen are bench sized.
If it where to come in 220v it to would bee nice.

Thanks