So I just spent the last hour trying to adjust blade parallelism on my inherited Grizzly contractor saw (I think it's a 1999 G0123). It was out about 12 thousands of an inch in the back. I currently have it at about 2.5-3 thousands of an inch out now but ever time I get it perfect, when I go to tighten the trunnion bolts it always comes out of true. The rear bolts are the only ones I loosened as they are the only ones immediately accessible. The front ones would be a real PITA.
I'm about to start on the fence now given that the manual states that the target should be no more then 3 thousands of an inch out.
Just wondering how anal I should be about this and how I can go about getting it even better. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Blade and fence parallelism
Started by
kyleheon
, Feb 06 2012 12:20 PM
2 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 06 February 2012 - 12:20 PM
#2
Posted 06 February 2012 - 01:54 PM
WIthin 0.003" is good. It's usually better if you can snug each nut a little at a time, and go around a couple of times as needed until they're all tight, as opposed to tightening each nut fully all at once. If that technique doesn't work, then you might be due for an upgrade to harder washers. There could also be some burrs between the mating surfaces that need filing down (I know, it's a PITA to check). There's a device called PALS from In-line Industries that help hold the trunnions in place and help with small adjustments....best $20 you'll spend on your saw. Double check that model number...it doesn't look familiar to me. They used to have a G1022....the G1023 was the big cabinet saw, but don't recall a G0123 (could have been before my time).
If all else fails, getting the fence parallel with the blade, and the miter gauge square with the blade are really the essential adjustments. You can always compensate by adjusting the fence if necessary, but it's best to get the blade parallel with the miter slots and use the slots as the reference.
If all else fails, getting the fence parallel with the blade, and the miter gauge square with the blade are really the essential adjustments. You can always compensate by adjusting the fence if necessary, but it's best to get the blade parallel with the miter slots and use the slots as the reference.
#3
Posted 06 February 2012 - 02:03 PM
Ah yes, it's the G1022, not the G1023, sorry about that mistype. I've heard of the PALS, in fact I'm using their Deluxe Kit for alignment. In addition to their PALS upgrade I want to get their performace package (upgraded pulley and Accu-Link belt).














