Devildawg91 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I am new to woodworking and trying to build marc's outfeed table from the wood whisperer site. However when I rip cut the plywood for the 57" width I am not getting a straight edge. I can't for the life of me get it 90 degree smooth edge the entire length. any help would be apprecitaed Thanks, Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 There are a few ways to joint (or make straight) an edge of a workpiece. If you are using solid wood, a jointer is normally your best option. It removes a small amount (a 16th to a 32nd) of stock per pass, until the board is straight on one side. You should avoid using a jointer if the workpiece is plywood. If the piece is too big, you could use a router, a guided bit, and a known straight edge (a jointed length of pine, a level, an aluminum straight edge, etc). Line up the straight edge, clamp it down, and rout the workpiece with the bit running along the known reference surface. Another option is using a router table with a split fence. Offset the outfeed fence 1/16th, and rout a few times (not good for large workpieces). A fourth option is using a sled for you tablesaw. This is a good way to go for plywood. Here are some directions for this method: http://www.newwoodwo...tsjointjig.html . There are many ways to make this jig, so do a google search for other methods if you wish. There are still other options (jig saw, circlular saw, etc). Please post what tools you have access too, and I can be more detailed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleheon Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 It sounds as though your rip fence isn't parallel to the blade. You need to make sure that the distance from blade to fence is the same at both the front and back of the blade. You could do this with a tape measure but if you want to be more precise, there are many tools available (such as the A-Line-It sets from In-Line Industries) that can help you calibrate not only the fence to the blade the miter slots to the blade as well as other things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 It sounds as though your rip fence isn't parallel to the blade. Yes, this could be. I was assuming the workpiece was very "unstraight". If you rip the workpiece with the factory edge along the fence, you should get a relativly good cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joelpro Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I asked a question similar to this a few months ago and got some great responses. I'm using the router/straight edge method until I make my sled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I use an aluminum straight edge and a skill saw to rough cut to size then shave it with the router and straight edge to clean up the cut. My straight edge is in sections and 12 ft cuts are possible. Table saw with a well adjusted fence works well for most cuts. Check the edge of sheet goods for flaws before you rip! I have found bumps and crooked edges which throw your cut off. Don't trust the corners to be a perfect 90 degrees either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
over40pirate Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Make a simple straight edge guide. Take a piece of 1/4 - 1/2" ply or hardboard, as long as you need to rip +1' or so, about 10" wide. Take a piece of 3/4" stock, jointed on one edge, and screw it to the other piece, so when you run your circular saw along it, it trims the base. Clamp this to the ply you want to rip, with the edge, right where you want the cut, and cut away. You could also make the base wider, and mount the straight edge in the center, and cut one edge with a router, so you can clean up edges with your router. Be sure to use the same circular saw, and same router, with the same bit, each time. I mark my rip guides, with, which saw/router/bit, it is for. On my guide, I cut a t slot along the bottom, and use hold downs to clamp it to the ply to be cut. No clamps to get in the saws way. Or you can spend all your money on a track saw. Might be worthwhile for a pro, that rips a lot every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 On my guide, I cut a t slot along the bottom, and use hold downs to clamp it to the ply to be cut. No clamps to get in the saws way. This sounds interesting, but I can't quite visualize what you're describing. Can you post a picture? -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
over40pirate Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Here is a picture of the bottom of the guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Very clever pirate! I'm glad that Russ asked that question. I have used a guide like that for a long time and the clamps have always been an issue for me. NOT ANYMORE!!! Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 If you make your guide two or three times as wide you can add a fence and dont have to mess around with squaring. Make your fence out of 3/4 ply, add a piece twice as wide on top of the fence so that it wraps around the the piece being cut. Two regular clamps will be all that is needed. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'm glad that Russ asked that question. Me, too! That really is a neat idea. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
over40pirate Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Glad you like the idea. I use the T slot bit a lot, for jigs. etc. One of my miter gauges has a shop made flip stop on it, which rides in a t slot. I think Rockler had the bit on sale for $10. Be sure to cut a dado, with a straight bit first, then use the slot cutter to cut the slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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