Im getting ready to build a new work bench and i am stumped on the best way to make the dog holes. Wanting to do standard 3/4" round dog holes and im just not feeling the best way to make them.
I was thinking my router and guid rail and going about 3/4" don the switchng to my drill and a bit. the top is going to be about 2" where the dog holes are going to go.
Thanks in advance!
4
Dog Holes!!! Help!
Started by
Jjmedure
, Feb 22 2012 08:42 AM
9 replies to this topic
#3
Jjmedure
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:54 AM
i do have one but the thought of putting a 200+# 8' long slab on it does not sound like a good time. !
#4
Mike M
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 09:42 AM
MCLS sells a 3/4" spiral bit in HSS (not carbide) that is intended for cutting dog holes. Price is reasonable and shipping is free.
You need to immobilize your plunge router in position. I used double sided tape but clamps could also work. Drill the hole, backing the bit out to clear the chips every 1/2". If the hole is deeper than your router's plunge, go as deep as you can then extend the bit in the chuck to get some extra depth. If that is still not enough, finish with a 3/4" drill bit. Don't forget to back up the hole to avoid blow out.
You need to immobilize your plunge router in position. I used double sided tape but clamps could also work. Drill the hole, backing the bit out to clear the chips every 1/2". If the hole is deeper than your router's plunge, go as deep as you can then extend the bit in the chuck to get some extra depth. If that is still not enough, finish with a 3/4" drill bit. Don't forget to back up the hole to avoid blow out.
#5
Sac
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:31 AM
Mike M, on 22 February 2012 - 09:42 AM, said:
MCLS sells a 3/4" spiral bit in HSS (not carbide) that is intended for cutting dog holes. Price is reasonable and shipping is free.
You need to immobilize your plunge router in position. I used double sided tape but clamps could also work. Drill the hole, backing the bit out to clear the chips every 1/2". If the hole is deeper than your router's plunge, go as deep as you can then extend the bit in the chuck to get some extra depth. If that is still not enough, finish with a 3/4" drill bit. Don't forget to back up the hole to avoid blow out.
You need to immobilize your plunge router in position. I used double sided tape but clamps could also work. Drill the hole, backing the bit out to clear the chips every 1/2". If the hole is deeper than your router's plunge, go as deep as you can then extend the bit in the chuck to get some extra depth. If that is still not enough, finish with a 3/4" drill bit. Don't forget to back up the hole to avoid blow out.
THis is what I did and it worked out good. Make sure that you have a good jig of some sort for holing the router in place and to keep your spacing nice and even. and if doing two rows, you want those to match up as well, if they arent even, then it could make it difficult to mount larger panels.
Sac "The Rolling Woodworker", Follow me on Twitter.com - @Sacadelic
#6
Matt V
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:50 AM
That sounds like a good method to me. The only issue I have with the dogholes is getting them started so they don't tearout on the surface.
The ones I did on my old workbench where drilled with a spade bit. Now I'd probably start with a Forstner bit, slowly drill to establish the top and control tearout then have at it the rest of the way. There might be tearout when you break through the bottom, but it's on the bottom...so I'm not too worried about that. But you could attach a backer board just in case.
The hardest part is laying out and getting started.
The ones I did on my old workbench where drilled with a spade bit. Now I'd probably start with a Forstner bit, slowly drill to establish the top and control tearout then have at it the rest of the way. There might be tearout when you break through the bottom, but it's on the bottom...so I'm not too worried about that. But you could attach a backer board just in case.
The hardest part is laying out and getting started.
"Straight Grains & Sharp Blades"
#7
semmons23
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:24 PM
Take a 1 inch or more think piece of stock and drill two 3/4" hole all the way thru it at the spacing you want you dog holes. Then put a fence on the bottom side of the board spaced 2, 3, 4 inches on center from your hole. However far away from the edge you want your holes. Put the fence up against your bench clamp it down and drill both holes. Then move the board over 1 hole and put a bench dog in the other hole. This will ensure perfect spacing and prevent the top of the bench from tearing out.
Something like this....hope that makes sense.
Fence Dog Hole
| o
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| o
Something like this....hope that makes sense.
Fence Dog Hole
| o
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| o
#8
tdale51
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Posted 03 March 2012 - 02:35 PM
WOW! This post came at the exact right moment! I'm adding my first ever vise to my bench and hadn't even considered the dog holes. I figured I'd just chuck a 3/4inch bit in my cordless drill and go to town. So glad I read this! It has prevented a ton of frustration. BTW, MCLS has a very good deal on a 7 piece HSS upcut spiral bit set right now.($49.95 with free shipping) I've been wanting a set for a while but they always seemed to be priced out of my limits. Two perfectly good examples of why I love TWW community.
#9
Vic
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Posted 05 March 2012 - 06:09 AM
A sharp auger bit in a brace is actually really easy and fast. As you approach the end of the cut, slow down. If the bit is nice and sharp, you can keep going slow without tearout. Otherwise, stop when the auger just peeks through and finish up from the underside.
#10
bbarry9999
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Posted 10 March 2012 - 08:20 AM
semmons23, on 22 February 2012 - 07:24 PM, said:
Take a 1 inch or more think piece of stock and drill two 3/4" hole all the way thru it at the spacing you want you dog holes. Then put a fence on the bottom side of the board spaced 2, 3, 4 inches on center from your hole. However far away from the edge you want your holes. Put the fence up against your bench clamp it down and drill both holes. Then move the board over 1 hole and put a bench dog in the other hole. This will ensure perfect spacing and prevent the top of the bench from tearing out.
Something like this....hope that makes sense.
Fence Dog Hole
| o
|
| o
Something like this....hope that makes sense.
Fence Dog Hole
| o
|
| o
Super suggestion. Simple and straight forward. Thanks
