tim0625 Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 We have been discussing on another post that I did a glue up with yellow pine that have padauk inlays and after 7 hours or so, the glue still wasn't dry. We kicked around the glue possibly having broken down and one suggestion that was also plausible was that padauk is an oily wood and has to first be cleaned with something like denatured alcohol. What do you know about this and are there other oily woods to watch out for when gluing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 I frequently work with exotics and wipe the joint down with acetone prior to glue-up. +1 on the use of acetone. I work a lot with teak which is another oily wood and it's pretty much standard procedure to wipe down before glue up (I usually use epoxy on teak).. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted July 28, 2012 Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 Incidentally the 207 hardener with the 105 resin makes a great clear coat base for fast build up / filling of the grains when you're looking to get a mirror finish on your piece. If it's for outdoor use you'll need to add another topcoat of something else for added UV protection but the process works beautifully! Especially on teak where finishes have a difficult time getting a proper bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suiciedchild Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 I've used mineral spirits with good results, also have used the CA accelerator on oily woods when turning pens before putting on the finish. I've read that if you apply your solvent , glue up shortly after it dries, this allows the glues to harden before the natural oils can leach to the surface compromising the bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 ==> Incidentally the 207 hardener with the 105 resin makes a great clear coat base for fast build up / filling of the grains when you're looking to get a mirror finish on your piece. If it's for outdoor use you'll need to add another topcoat of something else for added UV protection but the process works beautifully! You know, I've got an outdoor set in the shop at the moment. I was thinking of CPES as the finish... Have you compared it against 207? What UV coating are you using? Usually I'm using the epoxy as a base coat for a traditional spar varnish (Captains, Epifanes, etc) but once the epoxy is cured it's a stable base for almost any coating (water, oil, poly, etc). Although the 207 does have some UV protection built in it's still recommended that another layer of protection is added for longevity. As long as the topcoat has a UV inhibitor / blocker added it would work well. Only thing I would recommend when using this for a piece of exterior furniture is to look at a 2-part topcoat as it will be much harder and stand up to "wear" much better than a 1-part. I've never used any of the other epoxies for this kind of application. Once I find something that works I stick with it. Been using WestSystem for over 12 years and I swear by the stuff. It's reliable, easy to work with and if there are any Q's their techs are a phone call away :-) If you're interested in how I use it here's a link to a couple vids I made. Part 1 is mostly prep work and part 2 shows the final results :-[). They are a little hokey but the info is accurate.. Part 1: Part 2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 What's your go-to UV at the moment -- I used Captains on my last covering, but got some cracking after 2 years... This is where using the epoxy as a base will make a difference. The cracking typically happens when the varnish is starting to break down and let go of it's substrate; kind of a warning sign... Epoxy has a much stronger bond to the wood and provides a moisture barrier helping to prolong the base coats of the finish. Come time for touchups or minor repairs you'll only need to sand down to the epoxy layers and re-coat rather than a full strip. Saves about 3/4 the work :-) My 1-part varnishes of choice are made by Pettit. Their 2015 and 1015. I've also had very good results with Epifanes but tend to stick with the Pettit products for uniformity in finishing. When working on many of the classic wooden runabouts the stain / filler they use on the mahogany is made by pettit, which requires Pettit's thinner, and if I stick with their varnish I know there will be no issues with adhesion. If I'm not using stain on a project I'll use which ever can is closer (Epifanes or Pettit).. This being said, I only use epoxy as a base on fresh wood (never over top of any kind of stain or filler).. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eveready Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Awesome... Acetone wipe-down for oily woods. Not too long ago I had tried to glue up some ebony with titebond II... needless to say it failed miserably. And in the shop we were working with Ipe for an outdoor pool house kitchen and bar. We were having a hell of a time with the joints holding. Now I know the proper way to deal with oily woods. Can't thank you guys enough! This makes me feel a lot more confident about project plans I had using exotics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Now I keep a gallon of lacquer paint thinner close by and give the padauk a wipe down before gluing ...no more issues at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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