Bandsaw advice

[bglenden]

Hi All -

I have started out using all hand tools (thanks Shannon) to see what I like and what I don't like, and have decided I don't particularly enjoy milling by hand and ripping, but I hate, hate, hate, hate (get the picture?) resawing by hand, so my first stationary machine will be a bandsaw. I'll use it for resawing (e.g., for shiplapped backs), ripping (I enjoy edge jointing by hand, I don't plan to get a table saw), and cutting curves.

I think I would like to resaw 12" although of course that won't be the most common size.

My current thinking is to get a Grizzly "G0513X2B" 17" "extreme series" bandsaw ($1374 delivered). It won a "best value" designation from a FWW review a couple of years ago, and seems to have a nice set of features for the price.

My questions:

a) Any comment on alternative machines to purchase? I could pay a few $100 more, and paying less is always welcome as well. Any advice for blades for my applications (resawing, ripping, curve cutting). I understand the factory blades are junk.

c) Are there any current or soon to be available discounts for Grizzly? Where do I find them in general?

d) Any suggested "how to use a bandsaw" books / video sources?

Cheers,

Brian

[HuxleyWood]

First, the 18" Rikon would be the only saw in the general size/price range I would consider but only if you get it on sale. At regular price I would prefer the 513 BUT I would get the G0513X2F since I MUCH prefer foot brakes to motor brakes as they can be operated without hands from anywhere around the saw. The next jump in quality in "smaller mid-sized machines" like you are looking at would be the Minimax S45N and Hammer N4400 both will run you just north of $2K, nothing worth looking at in the middle except the larger G0514 series. I would say if you plan to have the bandsaw as your one power machine you might want to look at the Minimax MM16 which is a whole world away in quality and ability. There is also used $1,400 bucks buys a lot of bandsaw if you are patient and diligent. Old iron and Italian saws can be found in the general range on a regular basis, some areas are better than others though.

For resawing and ripping the Laguna Resaw King is the best blade available especially if you value finish, second the Lenox Trimaster, both are carbide tipped and will last "forever" but have a high initial cost, but will saw lots in the long run if you actually use the bandsaw. For contour cutting blades I prefer bi-metal as the Lenox Diemaster II, again more expensive than carbon blades but will last much longer. I avoid high silicon steel (Swedish steel) blades at all costs, they are more expensive than carbon and dull much faster, though they are initially sharper. In general I stick with Starrett or Lenox blades, there are a lot of industrial supply houses online or local that weld to length, be sure to get recommendations for sources since poor welds are not uncommon and some sellers are far more prone to them than others.

The "summer" grizzly discount has come and gone. If you don't get a catalog order one, some had a 5% coupon code on the back. If you get one and didn't get a code you can order one in your wife's name, it seems "new" customer catalogs seemed to have the coupon at a much higher frequency. I doubt you will see any 10% sales until later in the year, closer to black Friday.

The best bandsaw book in my opinion is one by Mark Duginski (Amazon for about $14) he also has a good video as well but there are plenty of free videos on magazine websites and youtube.

[Morton]

I agree with Huxley on his points. I own the Rikon 18" and have played with their other models - all very good bang/buck. I don't care about a brake at all - I turn it off and let is spin down while I do something else.

The Woodslicer blades from Highland Woodworking are very nice for resaw. But they don't last "forever" - but also don't cost too much.

[HuxleyWood]

The Woodslicer blades from Highland Woodworking are very nice for resaw. But they don't last "forever" - but also don't cost too much.

You can buy the same Atlanta Sharptech stock from Iturra (Blade Runner) or from Spectrum Supply (Kerfmaster) for significantly less money. The hardened spring steel blades do dull fast but are excellent if you need to save wood our have a saw with limited tension ability.

[bglenden]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I contacted MiniMax for the MM16 pricing, and given that I am not certain about how I will use the saw yet, I haven't been able to talk myself into paying the premium (more than 2x the Grizzly I am intending to buy). If I come back in a year or two with upgrade-itis you can definitely say I told you so :-) Grizzly catalog ordered in my wife's name - hope there's a discount offer on it.

All the other advice (book, blades, etc), I will take. Thanks again.

Cheers,

Brian

[pagel]

Hi Brian,

I recently purchased the MM16 (now under its European designation - S400P) and just love the beast. As my first bandsaw, I too was very uncertain about spending that much money on it, but after a lot of research and talking with Sam Blasco I took the plunge and haven't regretted it for a second.

HuxleyWood is the true expert on bandsaws around here and he can spell out all the advantages of these Italian-made beauties, but one of the features that sold me was the mass and strength of the spine. It's important if you plan to do much resawing. Anyway, explaining all the reasons why a stiff spine is important is above my pay grade. Hopefully HuxleyWood will jump in and detail the advantages.

[bglenden]

I happened to notice that the Rikon 18" is on sale ($300 off; now the same price as the 17" Grizzly I was looking at). Would anyone argue that I should buy it rather than the 17" extreme series Grizzly (G0513X2B).

Cheers,

Brian