I have not, but did some research on how to do it. That is exactly what I did. It has three different nicker lengths, the shortest extends below the bottom of the plane about a 1/16". On softwood it works "ok" on hardwood it is a show stopper. Either it is to long, or it needs to be sharper than it is? Thoughts? Josh
I have a client that has requested a coffee table made from his material. Normally this wouldn't be a big issue, but the piece of wood is a 4" X 16" X 10' that has been weathered for decades. He has requested it to be the full thickness which is again no problem. I figure on ripping 4" off one side of the whole piece and then resawing that in half to make the legs and stretchers. this will allow the use of the weathered surface on all exposed surfaces except the edges on the top itself. The 4 X 12 left after the rip, will be cut in half and trimmed to 48" long making the top 24 X 48 with all fresh cut edges which i will leave exposed for contrast. Now the problem! The piece I propose to rip off has a crack the full length of the piece. It is not so severe that it is going to break apart when cut but it is very deep in places. What would be the best way to stabilize this crack? Can you pour an epoxy down into the crack and let it cure before cutting? Also with leaving the weathered side exposed it is very rough to touch, and lots of surface checking. I intend to use a 50 to 1 finish. Not sure what it is called now ( i haven't used this in many years) but it is a very thick finish that flows on filling all the voids and cracks leaving a smooth finish. So any recommendations for this product would be appreciated also! I figure on documenting this build so will post pictures as things progress.