rodger. Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Does anyone have any tips on how to clamp two 22.5 degree bevels together (about 32" long)? I tried a few different dry runs, but I am not happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Pug, I usually just screw some stops to the bench top, set at a 45 to one another, and then use bar clamps to pinch my pieces into the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I've seen several videos where they use packing tape on the outside of the joint. You lay out the pieces flat on top of the packing tape, then fold them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Tape works well if the fit is good, clamps work better if you are trying to get as good a fit as possible from less than perfect joinery. You just have to imagine the shape of angled block ( caul ) to push the joint in to fit better. You can never have too many clamps. I have over a hundred clamps and sometimes that is not enough. Make the best of what you have then get creative..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayWC Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 You can use something like these or make something similar with some hardwood blocks cut to match your angle and glued to hardboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I bet you could double face tape some angled blocks to use for clamping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Depending on the situation, I'll use: - Blue tape - Spring clamps with pin points - 23 ga. pins left proud inside the joint. To do this, you shoot short pins into the actual joint before assembly, snip them off ~ 1/16" long, push the joint together, pull it back apart, apply the glue, and push together. If you're doing end grain, apply the glue, allow to soak in, then reapply more glue. The pins keep the joint from sliding around. If needed, wrap in tape or stretch wrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I did a dry run with green/blue tape, but I don't feel that it will have enough pressure to form a strong glue joint. I would like to get some real pressure on there with a proper clamp set up. I tried to cut some cauls, but the clamps kept slipping off the work when I tightened them to any extent (not enough force to have decent squeeze out). I do like the idea of spring clamps with points, but I don't have any. Maybe its a good excuse to buy some. Would they work well on an angle less that 90? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 if using tape the key is to use clear packing tape. Blue/Green, Duct, etc stretches too much. Plus the clear stuff allows you to see the joint after it is clamped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 I do like the idea of spring clamps with points, but I don't have any. Maybe its a good excuse to buy some. Would they work well on an angle less that 90? Mine do... http://www.coastaltool.com/clamps_vises/maestro/m1201_clamp-all.htm In extreme situations, combine with my cut off pin tip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted October 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 Mine do... http://www.coastalto...1_clamp-all.htm In extreme situations, combine with my cut off pin tip. I was thinking of this one, but yours looks better! http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=54189&cat=1,43838 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CessnaPilotBarry Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 What I like about them is all the components are sold ala-carte, and the way the pliers have multiple steps for different opening widths. Also, the tips are brass (and Sharp!), so they don't seem to react with glue to discolor wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted October 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 they don't seem to react with glue to discolor wood. Good tip - never considered that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 Have you seen these miter clamp adaptors? They say it comes with adapters for 22.5-, 30-, 45-, and 60-degree miters. I don’t know how well they work. It seems that Amazon is currently out, however I have seen them on Craigslist. Not sure where you would buy them new. If you don’t purchase it new, you would have to make sure all of the adapters were there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted October 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 Have you seen these miter clamp adaptors? They say it comes with adapters for 22.5-, 30-, 45-, and 60-degree miters. I don’t know how well they work. It seems that Amazon is currently out, however I have seen them on Craigslist. Not sure where you would buy them new. If you don’t purchase it new, you would have to make sure all of the adapters were there. This look interesting. I wonder if anyone has created a "shop made" version of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 The simpelst "shop made" version is just a couple of sticks with a V-notch cut in each one. Attach them to the workpieces by applying clamps at 'A', then close up the joint with a third clamp applied at 'B'. -- Russ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted October 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 The simpelst "shop made" version is just a couple of sticks with a V-notch cut in each one. Attach them to the workpieces by applying clamps at 'A', then close up the joint with a third clamp applied at 'B'. -- Russ What about a 22.5 degree bevel (45 degree finished angle)? Would the V notch need to be cut at 45 degrees instead of 90 degrees? I would think the clamps would slip off a 90 degree notch if they were used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 I suppose you'd want something more like this. The notches would need to be cut as shown. You'd also need to move the notched sticks farther away from the joint to make sure that the clamping pressure was still centered on the joint. (That's what the dotted line is supposed to indicate.) -- Russ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 Maybe I misunderstood, but I think Franklin Pug is talking about something similar to the lower right and left corners that you find on “flag frames”. I don’t know what he’s building , but just as an example, each of the two lower corner angles of a flag frame would measure a total of 45 deg (two 22.5 deg cuts). I have seen flag frames that don’t use the 22.5 deg angles, but then the lower side corners are not a miter joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 Okay, so then it looks like this: Same idea. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 reminds of something I’ve read You may have read post #7 in this very thread! -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Actually I didn’t Russ. Had I read Barry’s post I wouldn’t have posted an idea I saw on a DVD a couple of years ago. I apologize for the redundancy, and I’ve removed my post. Having now read Barry’s comment, I noticed he recommends a 23 gauage pin. I’ve only heard about an 18 guage brad nail being used. I’ve also read or saw it being used on other types of glue ups other than a miter joint. Thanks Russ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 No apologies necessary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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