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Bowing in butcher block countertop
Posted 15 October 2012 - 02:04 PM
I’m new to this forum and came here hoping you'll be able to help me solve a problem I have.
I recently finished an oak butcher block countertop with Waterlox’s sealer finish. I only finished the top and sides and in the 2 weeks it took me to finish the top, (it took a while for each coat to fully dry), the countertop has bowed. The edges of the countertop have bowed up about 1/4 inch from the island frame. How do I “un-bow” this so that I can then seal the bottom of the countertop and hopefully prevent this bowing from happening again? In the picture below, the cupped part of the countertop is the finished side.
Posted 15 October 2012 - 02:17 PM
Posted 15 October 2012 - 02:21 PM
Posted 15 October 2012 - 02:44 PM
Posted 15 October 2012 - 02:54 PM
you may be able to drape the table with plastic (all the way down to the floor, all the way around) and run a DE-humidifyer under the table. In theory as the moisture is removed from the bottom side of the counter top it should shrink and pull itself flat. Then remove, seal and re-install the top.. This may, or may not work but it's the only solution I can think of...
I agree that seems to be your best bet. The only other option is a wide belt sander but your top would end up being about 1/2 inch thick. The worst case scenario is you got a really good learning experience about moisture and wood movement. Did you make the top? If so did you alternate grain direction for each board?
Posted 15 October 2012 - 03:49 PM
Posted 16 October 2012 - 04:10 AM
May the force be with you
Posted 16 October 2012 - 06:57 AM
Whenever possible, I add saw kerfs, dadoed or routed grooves, or relief channels, to the unseen bottom face of large panels like this. How I do it boils down to whether the edges will be visible when the panel is installed.
If you break the unseen face, you reduce that face's ability to expand across a straight plane and cup the other side. While the part can still cup the other way, it's often easier to restrain the center, and little crown is less obvious than a lot of cup. This is why commercially made wide moldings and flooring do not have a flat back.
I've built many wide, solid wood, radiator covers that are exposed to wide temperature and humidity differences on opposite sides, and by removing the leverage, they've stayed flat enough.
- Beechwood Chip likes this
Posted 26 October 2012 - 07:56 AM
- Boatworks Today and Chris H like this