justinh Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 I've never used an boiled linseed oil and wax finish and am looking to use it on my current project. I'm building a quilt rack that will clamp the quilt in between two boards. Since I haven't used it, I'm not sure if I should be worried about the oil/wax transferring to the quilt. This may not be an issue but thought I'd ask. I also thought about using BLO and then shellac or poly over top of it to seal it. Thoughts? Thanks, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 I use a combo of BLO,Shellac,Denatured Alcohol (1:1:1) on some stuff I turn, and after it cures (3-4 hours) I haven't noticed any transfer. I wax just about everything when I am done (my final finish). I have never had any issues with transfer after it's been buffed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 hey chris i use the same mix up for my turnings did you get the idea from captain eddie? and again there is little to no transfer on my projects except when actual applying them then it gets everywhere. the wax usualy gets buffed down to its thinist coating to fill in any cracks and dips on the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinh Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to trying this finish as I've just stuck with Shellac and Poly prior to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted December 25, 2012 Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 hey chris i use the same mix up for my turnings did you get the idea from captain eddie? and again there is little to no transfer on my projects except when actual applying them then it gets everywhere. the wax usualy gets buffed down to its thinist coating to fill in any cracks and dips on the wood. Yep, Capt Eddie has some great tips! I was using butcher block treatment from the local big box store (Mineral Oil + Wax) and I wanted more "shine", so I tried Capt Eddie's OB Shine Juice, I had everything but the BLO laying around, so it was a cheap experiment. I love the finish it gives. I worry about cured Shellac being "Food Safe" so I still use the mineral oil mix for anything I know will be used for direct contact with food, but I have been told that cured shellac is food safe too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinh Posted December 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 So I think I'm reading it correctly, you make a mix of the three things and apply them like you would with a normal oil? How many coats do you tend to need to get a good finish? Thanks again for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Pants Posted December 25, 2012 Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 Chris, I'm not sure if you're aware but the coating on a lot of medicines, as well as the shell on candies like Skittles are shellac. It's food safe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoboMonk Posted December 25, 2012 Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 Chris, I'm not sure if you're aware but the coating on a lot of medicines, as well as the shell on candies like Skittles are shellac. It's food safe Food-grade shellac is food safe. However, wood finishing products are not made from highly purified food-grade shellac. Likewise, safe drinking water is not the same purity as the 98% of water that is undrinkable. Blessings --- from a former Clinical Chemist/Toxicologist and consultant to the wood-finishing industry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Pants Posted December 25, 2012 Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 While true, it was my understanding that shellac got a blanket approval with regards to the children's toys legislation a couple of years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 So I think I'm reading it correctly, you make a mix of the three things and apply them like you would with a normal oil? How many coats do you tend to need to get a good finish? Thanks again for the help. Thanks Kevin! That is good to know. I will probably use the OB Shine Juice almost exclusivley then. I think its a better look than the mineral oil. As for applying the finish, I just wipe it on with a shop towel (blue paper towel). I typically do 2-3 coats before it doesn't seem like there is any more absorbtion, can very widley depending on species of wood. Most domestic woods seem to take a bit more coats than the south american or african woods. I re-apply every 20-30 minutes, so it isn't cured yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoboMonk Posted December 26, 2012 Report Share Posted December 26, 2012 While true, it was my understanding that shellac got a blanket approval with regards to the children's toys legislation a couple of years ago. That's a common Internet Echo. WRT the Skittles Internet Echo, here's a list of ingredients: SUGAR, CORN SYRUP, HYDROGENATED PALM KERNEL OIL; LESS THAN 2% OF: CITRIC ACID, TAPIOCA DEXTRIN, NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS, MODIFIED CORN STARCH, COLORS (TITANIUM DIOXIDE, YELLOW 5 LAKE, BLUE 1 LAKE, YELLOW 5, BLUE 1, YELLOW 6, RED 40, YELLOW 6 LAKE, RED 40 LAKE), ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C), SODIUM CITRATE, CARNAUBA WAX. GLUTEN-FREE, GELATIN-FREE. Blessings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted December 28, 2012 Report Share Posted December 28, 2012 I can't really find "food grade" shellac. For example, Bull's Eye shellac says its "non-toxic" about 10 times in the description, but never food safe. Does "non-toxic" and "food safe" mean the same thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 nope i would not use it for making candy its the purity that you want. finish quality is for wood types im not worried about geting some shellack on my bowls and then have some transfer of shellack into my food. but at the same time i would not want to take a spoon full of shellac with my meal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 Years ago I took a class at Highland Hardware( now Woodworking) taught by Tage Frid. He used a similar mixture. Watco Danish oil, shellac and denatured alcohol ,1/3 each. He called it 4F, Frid's Fast F...... Finish. Treat it the same as the OB shine juice. I got my 3 books signed and it was a pleasure to meet a colorful master craftsman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 I have GOT to stop at Highland Hardware the next time I go to Clayton on a trout fishing trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guillaume Breton Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 oh i like that finish idea a lot, i will hate to try it. i did not think oil and shellac and alcohol would mix well! thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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