Nick2cd

~Don't wait!!!! DOMIPLATE!!!!!!~~~

13 posts in this topic

my wife got me a domiplate for Christmas this year. it's an accessory for the festool domino 500 (don't know if it fits the 700). anyways, it is a bolt on fence that allows for quick, unchanging depth on 1/2" and 3/4" materials (think sheet goods or 3/4" lumber). i thought it would be a great addition for building with sheet goods but this thing just makes the domino laser accurate (i know, it's hard to imagine making it more accurate)! it does so by increasing the stability on difficult plunges to the point where one hardly has to think about technique while plunging. you know what im talking about.....holding by the power cord with light pressure from thumb and forefinger, slow plunge while clicking your heels together and whispering "there's no place like home". anyways, it's a fantastic accessory and i thought id pass the word along. check it out at senecawoodworking.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 on the Domiplate! They are making a version for the 700 , not sure if it is available yet.

I use 5mm dominos with 5/8 Baltic and the 1/2 side of my Domiplate to make drawers. Corners always come out perfectly flush.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,

im definitely looking forward to using this for domi-drawers! i just wish i could use the quick reference paddles and place a domino a bit closer to the edge of a drawer. it won't matter on most drawers except for really shallow ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nick, +1 on Domiplate here to! I use it for Domi-drawers for many projects for the last 2 months since I bought it. Awesome!

chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a 1/4 dado 1/4 deep that is 1/2" up from the bottom edge of the drawer for the bottom. My domino is the older one with the pins, it puts the mortice just above the dado. A shallow drawer glues up fine with 1 domino in each corner and a bottom that is carefully sized to fully fit with no wiggle room. You have to use the 4 mm dominos with 1/2" Baltic . I use 5/8 Baltic and the 5mm dominos. The depth setting has to be on 12mm for the plunge into the face of the sides, 16mm into the ends of the front and back. Plus the Domiplate on the 1/2" side!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a 1/4 dado 1/4 deep that is 1/2" up from the bottom edge of the drawer for the bottom. My domino is the older one with the pins, it puts the mortice just above the dado. A shallow drawer glues up fine with 1 domino in each corner and a bottom that is carefully sized to fully fit with no wiggle room. You have to use the 4 mm dominos with 1/2" Baltic . I use 5/8 Baltic and the 5mm dominos. The depth setting has to be on 12mm for the plunge into the face of the sides, 16mm into the ends of the front and back. Plus the Domiplate on the 1/2" side!

The pin style fence is awesome! Have u ever done through tenons on ur domi drawers?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The pin style fence is awesome! Have u ever done through tenons on ur domi drawers?

I have. Pretty simple cheat method for through domi tenons is to build the drawer and then cut the dominos. That way you know it will be a perfect fit and get the strength of the tenons.

chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We made some boxes with through tenons. We made mahogany tenon stock and routed the corners, then rounded the ends on a long section before cutting off the tenon to exact length. Looked great . One of these days I need to figure out how to post pictures from my iPad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We made some boxes with through tenons. We made mahogany tenon stock and routed the corners, then rounded the ends on a long section before cutting off the tenon to exact length. Looked great . One of these days I need to figure out how to post pictures from my iPad.

You post pics just like your pc as long as you're not on the mobile site.

Don

The plate does look neat. Most of the guys I know using dominos for cabinets are just bolting them to a tablesaw insert with formica shims and cross stops. Very easy to balance bore panels without measuring or marking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You post pics just like your pc as long as you're not on the mobile site.

Don

The plate does look neat. Most of the guys I know using dominos for cabinets are just bolting them to a tablesaw insert with formica shims and cross stops. Very easy to balance bore panels without measuring or marking.

Don,

im not sure i follow, but it sounds interesting. have any pics of these setups?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don,

im not sure i follow, but it sounds interesting. have any pics of these setups?

Nick

Its the same theory as the domiplate, referencing off the bottom of the domino. The exception is that bolting the domino to a table makes it more accurate, subject to less user error. You move the panel not the tool.

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/woodstore_2241_52135224

There are plans for a jig to mount a biscuit machine or Domino to a flat surface.

Then you can use a fence, toggle clamps( I love my Bessey toggle clamps for jigs! ) to hold small parts in an exact position.

I found a free set somewhere and printed them, just haven't built it yet.

Link should be a picture of the jig.

Domiplate rules for speed and accuracy. I have had my fence slip or get a tiny bit crooked when I was cutting lots of mortices. I tried to overtighten the fence and broke a part. Festool service was great, part was free, I paid for faster shipping.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/woodstore_2241_52135224

There are plans for a jig to mount a biscuit machine or Domino to a flat surface.

Then you can use a fence, toggle clamps( I love my Bessey toggle clamps for jigs! ) to hold small parts in an exact position.

I found a free set somewhere and printed them, just haven't built it yet.

Link should be a picture of the jig.

Domiplate rules for speed and accuracy. I have had my fence slip or get a tiny bit crooked when I was cutting lots of mortices. I tried to overtighten the fence and broke a part. Festool service was great, part was free, I paid for faster shipping.

Essentially the same thing. The domiplate is a neat little gizmo. Sure beats the piece of mdf Ive used for years.

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now



  • Popular Now

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I don't know about a Bose wave radio, but I do know that the radio will never sound as good as Pandora, or digital media. We have a Bose Soundlink Mini.  ( https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/speakers/wireless_speakers/soundlink_mini_ii.html?mc=K2861305&gclid=CPXwxdS8kc4CFVcvgQodTDoKGQ ) It is wireless, rechargeable, and it sounds AMAZING. It sounds as good as the Harman Kardon stereo in the Wife's Mini Cooper. 
    • Of course it's hard enough, also how do you think Shane learned you need to put a blanket down first to prevent splinters!   Thats definetly a great deal when compared to buying retail. 
    • Thanks everyone, and yes, she is a wonderful woman. She surprised me even further yesterday on our ride back to Wisconsin, when she said she would like to learn so she could help me. I always say I never win anything because I used up ALL of my luck when I met my wife. I am blessed, and grateful.  I do have a question. How will having the wood inside, in the AC affect it?
    • A request poured in for me to show how to build/make a wooden vase on a scroll saw. Let me start this build by saying it is not the usual bench, table, or dresser you are used to seeing on this thread obviously. However I feel that a scroll saw is as much a wood working tool as a lathe or other specialty tool that you find in a wood working shop. I started using a scroll saw as my first wood working tool in the early 90's. And although I have added a lot of tools to my shop over the years (a lathe is not one of them) I still find myself using the scroll saw for many things in my builds. So, lets get started. Making a vase does not have to be as complicated as the segmented one that I posted a few days ago....     But, if segmented is what you want, segmented is what you get. I start with three boards (cut offs) of 3/4" x 8" x 8" of walnut, maple, and cherry. Not much in the way of board feet is it? And cut them into 30 degree pie shapes on the table saw. This can be difficult but, can be done with a bit of practice.     Re arrange them to an interesting pattern and glue back into three boards.     The center hole is 3/4" diameter and filled with a piece of 3/4" dowel. The circle layout lines are drawn, and the scroll saw table is tilted to 20, 25 or 30 degrees. (this is something that must be calculated before drawing the circles...That is a whole different subject.) and you cut rings from each of your boards.     Some times they break due to poor gluing and must be re-glued. Close  pins act as clamps for this purpose. Next you stack and glue the rings into a cone shape. You don't NEED the special clamp/jig to do this but, it does help. Make three cones of varying heights, one for bottom, middle and top as desired.     A spindle sander is VERY helpful in sanding the inside especially. Be sure to do all inside sanding BEFORE adding the bottom or gluing the cones together. The outside can be worked on a bit but, most of the final outside sanding is done after the cone glue-up.       Add the finish of your choice and that is all there is to it ! Piece of cake and a lot easier than you thought Huh ?              
    • I've reworked it a bit using your suggestions. I've now got aprons running along the underside and I made the legs tapered. They now start as a 4x4 at the top and taper to a 2" diameter bottom. The aprons are 3x1 and I like the look of having them come through the top using mortise and tenon joints. You can also see the power switch located on the desk but that may get moved since i'm not too sure how I like it there.
  • Popular Contributors

  • Who's Chatting

    There are no users currently in the chat room