Nii Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Hello, I used to have a gorgeous old late 1950's Hamilton drafting table that looked a lot like this one: http://www.1stdibs.com/furniture_item_detail.php?id=490882 . It was lost in a move, and I haven't been able to find another one that I can afford, but I did find a similar one of a cheaper make. The top on this one is pine and sort of beat up, but I found someone who has made a new maple top for me. To me, one of the best things about the old table was the smoothness of the top. I work on really thin paper, so that makes a big difference. The original Hamilton top also had a beautiful light amber color, as shown in the link. Does anyone know how they might have achieved that color and finish (smooth, but not slick or glossy)? Is it just the natural darkening of the wood over time that makes it a richer color than plain unstained maple? And is a water-based polyurethane the best way to go? I'd prefer to use a natural finish, but wouldn't want to have any crackling happen over time, and, since I live in New Mexico, I do need something that offers at least a little protection from sunlight. Any thoughts or links would be most appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 I have an original one like that. It was my grandfathers. I think there is a thin coat of sealer on it but not much else. Maybe lacquer, sanding sealer or shellac. I would like to think a thin coat or 2 of an acrylic water bourne finish would work. Poly is a bit to resilient / rubbery in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Wow! I just looked at the price on that original drafting table ($3000) . I will gladly sell mine for 2/3rds that price. You can rub the finish back with an abrasive pad to acheive a low sheen like the old ones have. If you can get any scraps of the wood used to make your top you can test some diluted stains to reach the color you want, then test finishes on top of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nii Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Thanks, Wdwerker. I can't believe what these tables are selling for these days! (I couldn't afford one at 2/3 the price either). I got mine for $80 from a retiring cartoonist when I was 16, and that seemed like a fortune then. It kills me that it's gone. Anyway, so you're saying yours looks like there's just a sealer on it? No color? I remember my Hamilton table top as having a nice golden color. Is that just the wood darkening and yellowing with age? Anything else you could tell me about the finish would be a great help. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 Kinda rich golden color but no stain that I could tell . Very little sheen on the base and underside of the top. Matte finish on the top. Most lacquer , shellac and sanding sealer was amber in those days. Wood probably darkened up a little as well over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Schaefer Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Guys, I recently picked up an old Hamilton drafting table with the original top. The top on mine is in relatively poor condition, but I'm thinking some time with a #7 and I should have a nice looking, flat work surface. (As big as it is it makes me wish I had a #8 as I'll probably take an 1/8th off of the whole top.) The real question is, once I've planed the surface flat again, what do I seal it with? It needs to be something that I apply in my office (read no air movement and no spraying). Suggestions? wdwerker suggests an acrylic water bourne finish, above, but I'm not exactly familiar with what that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Shellac, very thin and wiped on with a rag, will work quite well. It dries fast, and doesn't have quite the obnoxious smell of oil-based varnishes. It's easy to buld up just the amount if film you like, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Mosher Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Most of the drafting and drawing boards I have seen use a vinyl cover sheet to protect the top. Vyco makes a good one, I am sure there are others. I would just use the shellac as a wipe on, wipe off system, two coats sanded with 400 grit between coats and rubbed out with carnuba wax after the last coat. If smell is an issue Target Coatings makes a water based shellac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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