I'm through a period in my life where I wasn't able to woodwork and I've got a 9 month old son (FYI), my family and I are living in Germany for another year or two. When we moved here I sold all of my large tools (save money for incoming baby and multiple moves in the short term). So now I'm looking to start fresh, I have multiple rooms in my basement, and I'm looking at options. One room is large with a cement floor but only ONE German power outlet by the light switch. The other is just as large but has the washer, dryer, power panels, etc. The upside to the second room is that it has multiple American outlets as the house is wired for both. Now for the tool options:
Option 1: Go essentially all hand tools and use this time to hone all of those skills. I'm talking ripping and crosscutting with Disstons, milling boards by hand, etc.
Option 2: Since I am in Germany.... I could get some Festool and go for the more hybrid approach. I don't think it's feasible to get a table saw over here and I have all of the electrical issues to account for if I go with Option 2. Specifically: I could buy US tools online, or buy German tools and deal with transformers and possible US resale value decrease in the long term, since I'll eventually be back in the States.
(Good to be back!)
I have a friend that built a 10' x 28" long Roubo. 5" thick European beech.
No sag. It makes my Roubo look like a toy. I think you will want to beef up the leg dimensions, but that's mainly for aesthetics.
At 4' wide you are at 2 Roubo width. Just build 2, and only put vises on one side. Later in life, you can sell one and move the other into your home shop.
OK, That looks similar to mine after 3 coats. and the c hange in color with the oil confirms what my ample board told me. I am going to use flat water base poly (2 coats) because I need a little more protection for the wood. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the response. It might be interesting to make my own since the little bags a woodcraft are pricey.
Applying poly as topcoat on BLO is not uncommon but I have not done it on top of milk paint.
As far milk paint goes, part of the attraction of it is the fact that it is "uneven", unlike latex paint. I ended up appreciating the variations in the color of the milk paint. The part that appealed the most to me was that you can see and feel the texture of the wood despite the milk paint. I am posting a couple pics of my workbench that I painted with blue milk paint. Don't get discouraged. Just go through the proper steps, let the end product sit for a while and I am going to guess the you will come to appreciated it, like I did.
Here is the milk paint after it was sanded to 220:
Here is the end product after 2 coats of Danish oil:
Closer view of the panels, and I think the panel below has had only one coat of Danish oil.
Moral of the story: If I can make milk paint work, anyone can!