I am struggling with cutting this piece

[jimabbruzzese]

I am really struggling with how to cut the rear leg of this chair. My challenges are cutting the inside angles on the rear of the leg and having the 3" vertical part be in the same place on eight legs.

 

I have tried using a template, band saw and make shift router table but ended up tearing the wood along the wavy grain. That and making the template has the same inside angle challenge.

My second attempt was to rough out the leg using a band saw and finish it with a hand plane, but I can't really smooth out the area close to the inside angles with the plane.

At this point I have to buy some more birch since I have ruined eight legs but have gotten some good practice on the band saw. With that new lumber, how would you guys cut these pieces?

[Byrdie]

I prefer the band saw method for cutting the pieces out but I'm not sure I understand why you'd use a hand plane to finish.  I would think a spindle sander or drum on the drill press to bring the shape to the line would be better.

 

How many multiples are you making?  If just one chair, you have 2 legs.  I'd try clamping them together and finishing at the same time, especially if you're making more than just one chair.  That might give you enough surface to plane cross grain for a bit for you sand or otherwise finish to final dimension.

 

Problem solving on the fly but I think that's the likely route for me.  Not sure a router working against the changes in grain is a good plan.

[Levi Rathje]

I would probably use Byrdie's technique. Otherwise cut close with the bandsaw and then you could use the template that you have and route with the grain. You would either have to have a top and bottom bearing flush trim bit,or flip your pattern from the front to the back and route towards the center of the leg.

[G S Haydon]

I would probably use Byrdie's technique. Otherwise cut close with the bandsaw and then you could use the template that you have and route with the grain. You would either have to have a top and bottom bearing flush trim bit,or flip your pattern from the front to the back and route towards the center of the leg.

 

Levi is spot on. Make your template - Mark the timber using the template and cut close with a bandsaw or jigsaw leaving a small margin - Attach the template, we often use a couple of panel pins - Rout with the flush cut bit with the bearing running on the template - If the cutter is sharp clean up should be minimal.

[jimabbruzzese]

Thanks guys, you advice is truly appreciated. I don't have a spindle sander but I will get a sanding drum for my drill press.

[Beechwood Chip]

Marc demonstrates this technique in detail in this video.

[wdwerker]

Watch your grain direction when you chose your stock for the legs. Do a little research on " climb cutting" with a router. Another approach is have 2 identical templates. If the router would tear the grain with the template on one side then cut all the easy places flush and use those to align the other template on the opposite side. The 2nd template will then let you route in the opposite direction which should not tear the grain.

Chairs are one of the toughest pieces of furniture to make and they are usually made in multiples. Always have enough stock to make a few spare blanks. If you are working with expensive or rare wood some poplar or other cheap stock to practice on is a good idea.

Time spent making a jigs and templates pays off in consistent results.

Also think about how much work you can do to the part while it is still straight and square, then cut the curves last.

[Beechwood Chip]

There's also "bump cutting" as an alternative to climb cutting.  Charles Neil demonstrates in this video.

[Eric.]

^{The importance of a quality, sharp bit can't be over-stressed, especially if you're working with figured woods, exotics or anything with wild grain.  Do yourself a favor and invest in a spiral pattern bit at the least...I like the ones with both top and bottom bearings.  If you don't mind spending the coin, William Ng's Big Daddy is a bad mofo.  It will change your template-routing world...so I hear...haven't had the chance to pick one up...yet.}

 

^{http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2&zenid=85sdeljiint3g3318ah5cu7ql5}

[G S Haydon]

^{The importance of a quality, sharp bit can't be over-stressed, especially if you're working with figured woods, exotics or anything with wild grain.  Do yourself a favor and invest in a spiral pattern bit at the least...I like the ones with both top and bottom bearings.  If you don't mind spending the coin, William Ng's Big Daddy is a bad mofo.  It will change your template-routing world...so I hear...haven't had the chance to pick one up...yet.}

 

^{http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2&zenid=85sdeljiint3g3318ah5cu7ql5}

Could not agree more. Rout and template will give the most accurate results, making sure you have good cutters is key. Bandsaw and sand is fine and will work well. I personally only use the bandsaw and sand method if I had only one chair to make. Look forward to seeing the finished article.

[dwacker]

I'll offer my chair making speech. First chairs are easy in general unless your getting ornate. Second STOP and think.

Think of it as a multistep process all being done by different people. You have a designer, pattern maker and joiner you get to wear all three hats but only ONE at a time. First the designer, you have a plan the only thing that is missing for the patttern maker to do his job is the grain direction. Print out your plan and use a pencil to scribble the grain on your pieces. Now put on your pattern makers hat and head out to the shop.

Get yourself a piece of hardboard because its very easy to work with. Cut your pattern stock to 27" long (top and bottom of legs) Draw out the pattern using one long flat side for the 3" stretcher portion. Your 90's are done so all you need to worry about is the angles. Take your time and cut close to the line on the bandsaw to rough out your pattern. STOP

The next part is finishing your pattern. This part will make or break you project and why the pattern makers job is the most important job in the place. First understand your machines. The smaller the diameter of the cutter the more scalloping you will get in your cuts. This goes for your router bits, shaper cutters, and sanding spindles. Anything under 3" will leave a visible scallop so any bit that fits a router is really going to scallop vs a large diameter shaper cutter. You just have to be more mindful if your using a router.

Sand very close to the line with whatever you have wether its a spindle on a drill press or a rasp it doesnt matter. The last step is to finish the pattern and eliminate all scalloping. Your legs dont have tight curves so just a piece of sand paper glued to a long strip of hardboard will work perfectly. 3m tacky spray in a rattle can works great. 80 grit will take hardboard down real quick so think about the paper and go in steps. remember EVERY imperfection will transfer to the leg stock. When your done put on your joiners hat.

First thing you do is stick your pattern to a piece of 1/2" plywood. Your doing three things. The plywood is giving you a visual reference of grain direction, second the ply is your proto type and will show any defects in the pattern just like wiping down with water before sanding shows sanding marks and third your coming up with a cutting method. Rough out your ply on the band saw. Then move to the router table and look at the grain of the plywood. You can plainly see what direction you need to cut to prevent tear out. Usually you would just use the shaper and change the direction of rotation but since routers dont change direction you flip the wood. Flipping the wood is a simple matter of choosing the right bit. You need a top bearing bit for one direction and a bottom bearing bit for the other direction. Nothing fancy no mirrored templates, NO climb cutting and no expensive bits. Mark an arrow on your ply the direction of feed to prevent tear out. Cut all that you can with one bit then switch bits and flip the ply and finish up with the other bit. Look for marks and scallops in your plywood and give it a once over with your sandpaper stuck to hard board. Drill a hole in it so you can hang it on the wall. Now your pattern is a template.Now just do it all over again using the plywood as the template on your hardwood. With this one template you should be able to make thousands of legs time and time again perfectly every time.

If you were to use a shaper you would just stack two cutters one CW and the other CCW with a bearing in between. Raise and lower the cutters and switch the motor direction of rotation.

If you get in the habit of taking this approach with all your template work your walls will fill with templates and you will be able to reproduce anything time and time again perfectly.

Boy that was long winded.

[G S Haydon]

Brilliant Particle Board,

 

Just like back in the day, the chair makers would have templates ready to go. Guidance like that is why you are a mentor.

[jimabbruzzese]

Boy that was long winded.

 

Maybe, but it is also some of the best direction I have been given in my short time woodworking. Thank you for being detailed and specific in your instructions. I'll put this to use for sure.

 

And thanks to everyone who has replied. This forum is filled with people who are more than willing to help a newbie like myself out with what probably seems like a simple problem. I truly appreciate the advice I have received in this thread and others.

 

My shop time is limited so I won't be able to try this out real soon, but when I do I'll be sure to update with my success story.

 

You guys rock.

 

Jim

[dwacker]

You're welcome, hope it all works out for you.

Don

[jimabbruzzese]

I finally got a bit of shop time tonight and created the hardboard template. I've had a few days to mull this over and I wasn't seeing the point of the hardboard but was willing to accept the advice without a complete understanding. Then it dawned on me as I was sanding and again as I re-read Particle Board's comments shortly before making this post.

 

Get yourself a piece of hardboard because its very easy to work with.

 

In my previous attempt to create a template I struggled getting the plywood to the shape I wanted and settled for less than right thinking I could correct the shape on the cut hardwood. Now, I've got an accurate template for making a more durable template that should result in much less cleanup on the final pieces (eight of them). I can already see that the $8 for the hardwood and an hour invested in getting the hardboard exactly how I want it will payback that and more in the end.