G S Haydon

Decided to try a new style of mallet. Thought I'd hate it but really like it for detail work. I think it's ebony with a satinwood handle. Came up in a seconds sale.

Making a bench like this is not fine furniture. It's practical carpentry skills that result in a bench you can build fine furniture on. I actually think building a bench that's shown in the video is unrealistic unless you want to watch an experienced and skilled worker using limited tools. I saw I guy on YT post a bench build and it was much more practical. Once you have something like Rex has built you'll have learned a lot quickly and perhaps make another bench sometime in the future.

None of them are worth preserving. As long as you are having fun, just put in as much effort as you see fit. With a view to make them usable, just get them clean so rust and dirt does not transfer to your work. You may also find the standard irons are just fine, especially if you plan to use normal timber. If you add up your time spent restoring them, along with the sundries required it may be more logical to buy new. However I find bringing life back to an old tool an enjoyable distraction. This recent saw cost me £1 and took one hour to sort out.

6, 12, 25. Don't sweat mertic or imperial. Let's open a can of worms. What brand are you going for?

Grab it. $10! The reviews seem decent too. Practice plenty. One reviewer mentioned of a grit range between 3k and 5k. This will be more than adequate.

With the price of old router planes being so high I would look into a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. Things have changed over the years, vintage smoothing planes and jack planes are still dirt cheap. More specialist tools like routers were never made in the same volume.

I don"t think there's a bad place. Try sharpeningsupplies.com

King are a good run of the mill brand, not expensive. If you want to do that a 1000/6000 combo stone would work well and cheap. Lot's are listed as knife sharpening stones but as long as they are an 8 x 2 or 8 x 3 (ish) you'll be fine.

Tomy, keep it simple. If I had to buy new I would only buy a soft Arkansas from Dan's Whetstones. An 8 x 2 is perfect for freehand, 8 x 3 if you need to use a honing guide. If you need a honing guide go for a cheap side clamping style. They are often called Eclipse style, named after the maker. Practice with that system, it's more than enough for woodworking.

Nice info on the heat treating. I've never tried to do it. One of these days I will!

You're a gent Gary. It's a project I'd like to do. I have some nice old irons that need a home.

Gary, that is very tidy work. Using your method is very useful in a powertool setting. How are they to use? I'd imagine very nicely? I've not needed to make any before. If I did I would like to try the style shown by Roubo. They look more approachable from a hand tool project perspective. The attached is a great guide to making them. Almost as detailed as yours! ☺ RouboH&Rs.pdf

Oil based Hardwax Oil finishes are great.(there are water based Hardwax Oils) Very forgiving to use and give great results. You can apply many very thin coats and once fully cured buff it with some copier paper for a great feel. I don't like the coloured oils. I get the colour right with an oil based dye first, let it fully dry and then apply Hardwax Oil. https://www.gshaydon.co.uk/interiors/libraries

We have some solid oak doors in that style being made in our shop at the moment. I like the design and they are hung correctly! As mentioned before, ssnding could be required but with extreme caution. Also, your abrasive is going to clog like crazy. I would also look to use OSMO Poly X oil.

Derek, it's stunning. I really enjoyed the video you made on the drawer joinery. I caught up with it a week ago. It showed me the value of a fishtail chisel. I might fashion one from old chisels I've got hanging about.