Patricio Wise

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    Furniture building

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  1. Thanks for the replies guys! I will take delivery on the felled tree, or whatever portion of it I am given and go from there... I'll post pics of the milled lumber. Cheers pw
  2. I'm being offered a felled cork tree... I know the bark is no good for furniture but don't know about the rest of the wood... It's an oak species but couldn't find any info on it, what do you guys think?
  3. Thanks everyone! I have segregated that piece and will look into the treatment option. Cheers pw
  4. Those marking were indeed not there when cut... They appeared later, about 2 weeks give or take... There was some sawdust near the holes and in them... Cheers pw
  5. Hello guys, any ideas what this is that's eating up my walnut lumber, and/or what to do about it? Thanks in advance for any input. Cheers pw
  6. Thanks... Somehow I'm "not authorized"... Don't worry about it though... I'll let you guys know how it all turns out. Cheers! pw
  7. By the way, I couldn't download the sketchup file... Cheers pw
  8. So this is what I came up... I think the photos are pretty self explanatory... It's basically an 8" long 3/16" steel plate as wide as the crisscross tenon is deep... The recess is big enough for the bolt's head to remain out of the way of the crisscross and I think the tenon will still be long enough to provide adequate support. I was opposed to the wider rail with the shorter tenon and the bolt behind the crisscross mortise because I already have the front legs and rail milled to the specs on the plans and didn't want to build new ones if avoidable... It was my bad really... I didn't re-read the crisscross instructions before milling them and in all the haste and excitement to get finished I forgot they were different... I think this works nice... If someone has some structural input that could convince me to build new legs and rail, please, do convince me... I don't want the whole thing falling apart on me... I couldn't upload the photos here, so, I post the links: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1Pyk2K_pvgtNGtBNzAybGg4eXM/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1Pyk2K_pvgtelRvN0JQYWpMbmc/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1Pyk2K_pvgtVUJkaGVSRXdRa3M/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B1Pyk2K_pvgtblU2bm1QdW1DdVE/edit?usp=sharing Cheers pw
  9. Did anyone find a way around this without using Marc's drawboring method and without moving the tenon back while using a wider rail? What about drilling a hole for the knockdown joinery from below the leg and through the original (slightly trimmed down) tenon vertically instead of using draw bores on the "shorter tenon"??
  10. Hi again... My last post was about a "problem" I though I had... It turned out to be trivial... This one, not so much... I got the Benchcrafted kit with the Retro Crisscross leg vise... All was going great, except, in all my excitement and haste, forgot about how the front long rail needs to be a different width and have a different tenon (in comparison to what is shown in the plans or the video) in order for the knockdown joinery to pass behind the crisscross mortise, and routed out the mortises and holes on the leg for the front rail as stipulated in the plans and video. It is no one's but my own fault I know, but I was wondering if there is a convenient way to fix or adjust as opposed to building a new leg since I want to be able to use knockdown joinery for disassembly and transportation in the future... I'm attaching some photos to illustrate better. The lines are very lightly scribed but the main issue can be seen... Any suggestions more than welcome...
  11. Ha! I guess you're both right... don't know why I started visualizing the tail vise dog 1/16 off-center the rest of the dogs... I guess it's easier to make the stretchers 1/16th longer than the gap stop 1/16th narrower... Cheers and thanks for the help guys.
  12. Hello, first post here... So I'm new to woodworking and after building a dining table and several other small pieces of furniture during the first month of this new hobby I decided to go with the Benchcrafterd Split-Top Roubo as I quickly realized a pair of sawhorses just wouldn't cut it... It all started fine and have been feeling confident with my progress... I have assembled both top sections and have started working on the legs... Due to lack of space I will not work any detailed work on the top until the leg structure is finished. However, after going back to measure the timbers, I realized the front top section is 1/16th too wide clocking in at 8" instead of 7 15/16"... At first I thought it wouldn't be an issue (remember: newbie), but then I started going over the plans and figured it was more of an issue with the tail vise and the centering of the dogs (I intend on building square dogs)... My question is how big an issue would this 1/16" be? Should I try and rectify the whole timber, or maybe just mill a step in the length of the tail vise? Or just leave it as is? All input welcome! Cheers pw