Beerboss

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About Beerboss

  • Birthday May 11

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  1. Go with EMT (electrical metallic tubing) on the surface. It looks better than flex and pun intended is more flexible...for adding future circuits. Use #12 THHN stranded for the conductors. As for the wife & aesthetics warehouse fashion is in! (no not kidding). Most electricians see surface piping like a wood worker sees dovetail joints, a sign of competency. Kicks and offsets bent just so it look great, well to an electrician anyway.
  2. Tom's right, get a permit. Most...not all...inspectors will work with you if you show you are trying to do the right thing. I would approach it as asking for an education. These folks, like most people like to show you what they know if you ask them right. Most people don't understand the amount of damage a neutral can do. Many assume it is another ground. Trust me, it IS a current carrying conductor! You do not want to get between it and ground if it is under load.
  3. The difference between the two is the neutral. You have triplex going to a house as a first point. The neutral is bonded to the ground making it a grounded current carrying conductor. One you leave the main point you must "float" the neutral. The ground and neutral will be separate in your sub panel. You do not bond your ground bar to the cabinet and you do not bond your neutral to the ground. So, secondary distribution panels will have 2 hots, a neutral and a ground.
  4. Beerboss

    Oak Night stand pair

    Klasley, I couldn't message you. Do you want the plans or do you want them made?
  5. Almost an hour from Woodcraft, no others around. I mail order and have it sent to my office. Then I can bring it home while my wife is gone. :-)
  6. Beerboss

    Stuff to keep me out of trouble

    My projects
  7. I’m a newbie and just recently got a Stanley 93. It changed my life when fitting tenons but after reading this thread I just realized I’m finessing cheeks, not the shoulders as it was named for! As of yet I don’t think I’ve seen a “cheek” plane.
  8. MJB, are you going to be cooling the space ever? You may not need / want such an aggressive vapor retarder. If your attic space is vented there is no advantage to having a VR on the ceiling. It only changes the venting ratio and it you have soffit / ridge venting it doesn’t even do that. Remember that moisture moves from more to less so it may be moving out or it may be moving in. You want it to be able to move in either direction. The “warm in winter” VR has been removed in the building codes after the 2006 cycle.
  9. Just listened to this mini split webinar last week.... http://energy.gov/eere/buildings/building-america-meetings.
  10. I second that!! I did the math in my basement workshop. Thouhgt I had plenty of 4' 4 lamp prismatic wrap a rounds. Still use extra lamps and flash lights. Wait, maybe it's the lamps that are old, not me.
  11. Yes, you can have 120v & 240v in the same box. Voltage limitation is 300, you can’t have over 300 volts between any 2 phases. Floor boxes come in a variety of types the more versatile the box the more expensive they get (as you would expect). The cheapest being the round Carlon box will allow only one type of device per box. While you can have both 120 & 240 you would have to choose between the two since they do not make a combination device. You can have the wiring in the box and change the configuration latter if you want.
  12. wtnhighlander, good points, that is why I offerd Al only for the feeder, nothing more.
  13. Forgot to mention, insulation and air sealing are as important if not more so for a good result.
  14. I too have heard great things about minis splits. If I ever get the chance for a dedicated shop space I suspect that is the way I would go as well.
  15. 2" pipe size is good, just watch the gauge wire you are using. You want to reduce voltage drop as much as you can. Also no more than a total of 4 90 degree bends without a pull box. As a matter of economy aluminum is used for feeders. #2 Al is minimum for 100 amps and I would move up a size (#1) if over 100' per run. Total amperage use gets weird. In the past I wired a lot of 16 & 20 unit apartment buildings all with a 400 amp main. Electric stoves and window shakers for A/C. In theory each unit only could consume 20 amps, about a hair dryer and a couple of lamps. Never had to replace a main fuse. Bigger wire, yes bigger main, maybe not.