theodorescott

By the way, Mary May's online school has a lesson called "Carving a Simple Flower". I used it to guide me on this carving. The lesson is free, but you need to register. https://www.marymaycarving.com/carvingschool/2012/06/28/6-woodcarving-basics-carving-a-simple-flower-introduction/

This is a doll cradle I made out of pine and painted with milk paint. Yes, I carved pine.

The finish is several coats of Tried & True Varnish Oil.

I made this side table out of cherry. It was quick and easy to make. I changed a few things, but the design is one of the "I Can Do That" projects that Popular Woodworking published a few years back. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/i-can-do-that-victorian-side-table

Also, here are some prior finished boxes.

Yes, I bend the wood around a core. Then I tack them using an anvil - I have the little blue one that Lee Valley sells. Then I have tapered oval shapers that help hold the oval shape while they dry. Here are some in process photos (in no particular order). These are from various other times I have made these. I don't have and pictures with the cores, since that isn't a step where I want to stop and take pictures.

The oval is about 10 inches at the maximum and 7 inches at the minimum. I've made a bunch of these Shaker boxes, but I like to make small changes each time. This was the first time trying this color scheme. Maple sides, birdseye top. Black milk paint and shellac.

Yes, those are bed bolt covers made by Horton. They swing out of the way to allow access to the bolts.

The frame is cherry and the slats are pine. I made it using the book Beds by Jeff Miller. I mostly followed the project in the book that is called "First Bed". The instructions are focused on jigs and power tools. Since I focus on hand tools, I ignored a lot of the individual steps and just did what seemed to make sense to me.

James, I have no idea how many board feet. For the moulding, I used a rabbet and a #8 round.

It has a 35 pound draw weight, which is good for target practice. I don't hunt, so I don't need anything heavier.

I made a long bow out of bamboo, yellowheart, and leather. And I am working on a second one for my wife.

Thanks everyone. Tom, the hardware is Acorn, via Lee Valley. It is the same hardware in Bob Rozaieski's chimney cupboard article in Popular Woodworking. I had planned to make that chimney cupboard, but then I changed my mind and wanted something bigger.

I made a stepback cupboard out of pine. Barn red milk paint on the outside, mustard on the inside. I used Glenn Huey's plans for the Diminutive Dish Cupboard in "Building 18th-Century American Furniture" to guide the project, but I made a lot of changes. This was my first time making mouldings by hand. It was also my first time making frame and panel doors. First time making a tongue and groove back as well. So, it was a good skill-building project. By the way, I emailed Glenn Huey a few times with questions, and he was very helpful.

I was measuring the integral depth stop as I show in this photo. This is wrong. I thought that matched the instructions in the attached drawing. I figured out now how to do it. Instead of measuring the depth against the bevel angle, I need to measure while accounting for the angle that the blade is bedded in the plane. Mel, I don't know if that is what you meant. When I read your statement, I thought you just meant to measure the straight distance along the blade, without accounting for the angle like in the attached drawing.