Dan Oelke

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    A bit of this a bit of that.

    I *want* to do furniture but end up doing a lot more things around the house - remodling, chicken coops, etc.

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  1. Thanks guys. I probably will try Schwarz or Roy. I didn't measure the arbor diameter but I probably could find/adapt a modern wheel to fit. There is a pin that holds the curent wheel on the arbor. It's just that the cast iron center is so cool looking that I'd really like to keep it. I am hoping that someone somewhere can form a wheel around that core.... but to find them. I did google making your own wheel and I found a few people saying that they thought you should be able to make a mixture of Al-oxide and portland but no one talked about having actually done it.
  2. My dad came across this hand-cranked grinder from a relative's place as they were cleaning it out. Very cool looking with open gear set up. I haven't ever seen a grinding wheel like this. It has a spoked metal center and the abrasive is just a 3/4" layer formed around the outside of that. Unfortunately, the abrasive had been cracked and broken off of the wheel at some point. We still have some of the pieces but not all of it. In the photos the rustier wheel with the little nubs on it is the grinding wheel. While we could replace it with a more modern wheel that is all abrasive, I would much rather be able to get new abrasive put on the old wheel. Those spokes are just so cool I think. So - does anyone have any ideas on where/how to get a new set of abrasive formed onto that wheel? Also - anyone have an idea as to the manufacturer? We could find no lettering/markings anywhere. Thanks!
  3. So the sides are solid poplar with the grain running vertically I am assuming. The lip on the bottom - which way is the grain running on it? I am guessing from the picture that the lip is made of multiple pieces. One running along the front of the dresser and then another running front to back. Those two are joined together with a butt joint or maybe a miter joint. If that is the case - I would use biscuits to joint the face frame to the lip part along the front. Then along the side I would use screws and no glue. Make sure to wiggle the drill side to side a bit in making the pilot hole thru the lip part. The side will then expand/contract some and the lip will not. I would not put a lip piece across the back side. Or - is the lip from one big solid panel under the whole thing? If the lip is from one big solid panel - then don't worry about wood movement as it will expand and contract about the same as the sides. You could biscuit them together or just some screws from the bottom up into the ends of the sides.
  4. Since I am going to rely a bit on the shelves to give the box some strength - I really want something that doesn't have moveable shelves. I have seen that scheme Barry posted a picture of - and I do plan on using it someday - just not in this project. I think Barry had some awesome ideas and what I think I am going to do is to still cut my dado's like I was thinking, but then put a small board in the dado with it's grain running with the dado. That way it will not be a cross grain situation. The shelf will sit on top of that small board/cleat with some elongated screw holes in the back. And if Barry hadn't come up with that great idea my fallback was to use solid wood sides..... but I just wanted to do the frame & panel, well because I wanted to do it. Thanks so much guys!
  5. Thanks for all the good ideas guys. I really appreciate it. Here is a pic of a drawing I just sketched up trying to show how I was thinking of doing it. This picture is of the side showing the frame and the hashed out area is where I was going to plow a dado. The shelves would then be fastened into the dado.
  6. So I am designing a small book case that I plan to make out of all solid wood and am worried abot how to deal with wood movement. Current design is to have solid shelves about 11" deep. The sides will be frame and panel. I was planing a dado in the rails of the side to hold the shelf. However this will of course create a cross-grain situation. So - I was thinking of gluing the front part of the shelf - this would keep the front flush and all the movement would go to the back. The problem them becomes how can I best get that shelf to hold into the side but still allow for what I calculate to be almost 1/8" of movement. I know I could use plywood for the shelves - but I want to use all solid. This is for my daughter and the oak came from family land and was milled by her grandfather's. I think I might even have enough to do it all from the same tree. So - any ideas??? Thanks.