JesseCF

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    Amherst, MA, USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture making as a hobby.

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  1. Ok! Citrus based stripper worked just fine. I've sanded it to 220, and am going to fill some larger holes with Epoxy resin. I'm concerned when I apply the poly I'll run into the same problem as before, where part of the wood absorbs the epoxy in full and the other parts don't. Basically, the spalted part of my wood is softer than the rest and is totally absorbing the fluids. Would applying a grain filler help alleviate this issue? -Jesse
  2. Great advice here chaps. And Kiki, that sharpening station is fantastic. Anyone know of a safe stripping product that will work on Poly but not on Epoxy? My guess is I'm out of luck there. I filled in several large cracks in my piece with black dyed epoxy resin. I may have to just avoid those spots with the stripper, and then sand it down after (dealing with all the crap junk clogging the sander).
  3. I've decided to ch mical strip the finish, let the linseed oil still in the piece fully cure, and then apply a coat of satin poly. Anything more complex can wait until next summer.
  4. Hey all! So this was my first time finishing a piece of wood. Ever. Here are the steps I took. In even my limited retrospect, there are of course many issues. 1) Sanded wood with 120, 150, 180, 220 with a mostly OK random orbital sander my father has. The dust collector doesn't work so great and I didn't clean the sheet that often so that probably lent to issues. 2) Applied a linseed oil finish. Wood just kept sucking it up. 3) Consulted with a friend, proceeded with a 50/50 Miniwax quick dry poly high gloss and linseed oil mix. 4) Applied three or so coats, and with at least one of them I did not sand inbetween. Even when I did, I used the 220 again. 5) After letting it set for a week, I started attempting to rub out the finish. I started with 600 sandpaper and did a wet sanding. T Then the problem displayed itself! As is common with a non-flat finish, there were some ares of the finish that weren't buffing out and were staying super high gloss. I attempted all manner of fixes for this, starting with abrasive pads, moving to steel wool, then up to higher grit sandpaper. The effect still presents itself. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ag6fbkpcstmvsxb/IMG_20140917_220651.jpg?dl=0 So - I'm not sure if the issue is on the top of the finish, or some of the oil I originally applied seeping to the surface under the finish... no clue. It presents as a sort of fish scale effect across large portions of the wood. Request: I'm trying to get a "quick fix" for this. I want a transparent but non-glossy finish that will protect the wood, as I will be using it daily as a desk. I am LOTHE to strip the finish off and start again. I'm not even sure I have the time and tools for it. Could I just apply a final layer of satin or semi-gloss to provide an even finish and buff it in a few weeks? Regards, Jesse
  5. Thanks for the help guys! I'm overwhelmed by how fast everyone got back to me, and with what great advice. It looks like that local shop may be willing to joint and plane my pieces next week. I think in the meantime though I'm going to try the tack glue and hand saw technique. I won't lose much wood if it messes up, and I think it will be interesting and a good learning experience.
  6. Being a beginning, I wasn't sure if "tack glue" was an application method, or a product. I don't see it on Homedepot website. Can I use an application of Titebond for this?
  7. Interesting Shaffer... the idea being that the circ saw's blade thickness is wider than the 1/16, 1/32, or smaller, of the glued joint, so it will tear out the irregularities and leave a good fit?
  8. Also - both boards seem to fit flush with a reference board I got from Home Depot. The 2" thickness is probably playing havoc with things though.
  9. I live in Western Mass. There is a Wood Working School in Easthampton I'll be attending this fall (or an intensive in the summer) so I can learn the basics. Once that is done I can rent time in their Open Shop to use their tools, which is my plan for when I want to do wood working in the future. For now though, I basically have my neighbors garage full of... stuff. I have two horses for holding the wood, an electric hand saw, several planers (one which is quite long) and an electric router. I had thought to get a guide and use the router to cut a straight edge, but don't have quick access to any bits longer than then 2" required. Edit: I also have a belt sander, an orbital sander, and a iron shaped nooks and crannies sander.
  10. Hey all! First post. I have two slabs of spalted beach. 5' x 13" each (2" thick). I want to join them together into a 5' x 26" solid piece to use for a computer desk. I've gotten the two edges which will join together about as straight as I can get them with the tools I have. That's down to about 1/32 or 1/16th of an inch gap in places. Best I could do with a hand planer and no experience. This is before clamping. I have Titebond yellow, and I have some System Three Epoxy. I could also hit the store and pick up some Titebond III which I hear gaps better. My question is: What is considered a "tight" fit, quantitatively? And also, what is the loosest fit that would be possible between two pieces of wood like this, and still have a effective bond? Followup: Which adhesive should I use? P.S. The table base I'll be using will support both pieces along their entire width. So there won't be much pressure on the joint through it's lifetime. I would, however, like the pieces to not fall apart when I transport it to my home. Thanks folks. I appreciate the help.