ResidentEvil

FYI, I think that the Jet clamp sale isn't exclusive to Woodcraft. At least it wasn't last year. I'm trying to dig up where I bought mine last year, but as long as the distributor honors the sale price you are good to go. I think I bought at acmetools last year. Just be sure to try to get ordered as soon as the website shows they are on sale. I remember reading some who didn't order till later in the day waited a long time for their clamps to come in. Going to build up my stock of 12" this year, after getting 6x of most of the longer sizes last year.

I haven't checked yet, but it's on my list of things to do. I am leery that is the problem though, as I completely vacuumed everything out when I changed the head over and IIRC it was happening basically on the first cut. And to the OP. I know you have probably read a lot of people who say the HH on a jointer is pointless. That may be true, but my experience is that the $ I paid for the head was well worth it and I would do it again if I had to. Its much much quieter, which is almost the price of admission by itself. The finished surface is better slightly by my estimation, but still needs work to get ready for finish. The cherry on top is the ease of changing out blades...again, another thing that would be worth the price tag to me just by itself

I'm the same as mike. Bought the long bed 6" and then put the byrd head on it. No complaints at all, with the HH its quiet enough that I don't need to run ear pro. The jointed surface is smooth and takes just a little sanding to be finish ready. Only thing I have trouble with is DC. For some reason, after I put the HH on it I get lots of chips coming out the front and back of the jointer where the beds come close to the head. Didn't have that with the straight knife head. Not sure if I didn't reinstall everything correctly or what, but its kind of a pita. I haven't heard others with this issue, so don't let mine sway you.

This happened to me on the house I lived in previously. Wife and I had grand plans to completely re-do the inside. Wood floors throughout, replace all the painted base with stained natural wood, add matching crown molding throughout, replace all the interior doors with natural wood 6 panel doors that are stained to our taste... Were in the house for around 5 years, and one thing lead to another and a lot of those projects were never finished at the point where I needed to sell the house. When we decided to move, I paid a couple family members to come in and we finished all the projects up in a week. I lived in the house for all of a couple weeks with all of the projects done, but they were all nice and new for the people who bought it. Now a basement shop would be totally different from main level projects...i.e. it wouldn't be a requirement to get the house sold...but my recommendation would be to do it like you want it now so you can enjoy it a little bit. I'm sure there are ways you can finish it off that would be universal...by that I mean finish steps that would help your shop organization yet aren't so specific to woodshop that they could be of benefit if the buyer ends up making it storage or a game room or a workout room or whatever.

I can't comment on the lathe, other than I am in the same position. My wife is semi interested in turning, but she gets nervous around the larger tools. My plan is to sign us both up for a beginner lathe course to let her get a feel for it before I jump in. From what I understand, purchasing the lathe is just the tip of the iceberg, and you can get into a decent sum of money in order to get a sufficient setup to do turning. On the bandsaw, I went without one for 2 years in my shop. I just didn't feel it was a "must have" tool. Because I had several projects upcoming that required curve cutting, I decided to invest in a band saw. I decided to buy a long term saw first, and went with the Laguna 1412. From what I read, it was the best performing saw you could buy without getting into the $2000 range of bigger saws, and I didn't really have the room for a larger saw in my shop. Having the band saw for a couple of months, I can say that its probably the most often used piece of large equipment in the shop. And its mostly used on the little one off things where I need to make a quick cut here or there. I use it to rough cut lumber to width as opposed to the table saw now, especially for wood where I think there may be internal stresses and it could cause my TS to bind. I use it for any curve work. I installed wood floor in my living room the other day and it probably saved me an hour of ripping odd angles on planks to go around corners and stuff. I never would have believed that I'd use the BS so much, but I've heard several others say the same thing. As far as what to buy now, that is really up to you. Go check out the 14" saws and see if you think they will work for you long term. If you like them, I recommend the 1412. If you do decide to go with a cheaper 14" off CL, the good thing is that multiple band saws are great time savers; specifically that you dont have to change blades. If you do get a cheaper one now, and then decided to get a bigger/better one later you can set the small one up for curves and random cuts and leave the big one set up for resawing and cutting through the thicker woods.

I bought the CT36 second hand and it came with it. Its not something that I would have considered if I was buying new, but it came with the vac I bought. I'm kind of torn on it because it seems to be very useful, especially to store things close to hand when using the vac...but it also makes it too tall to roll the vac under my outfeed table or workbench to get it out of the way. Its probably not a surprise to anyone who owns festool stuff, but the rack is very solid and well built. Not a cheaply built add on at all. I'm thinking about trying to fabricate a DIY boom arm that attaches to the WCR1000 to keep cords and hoses up and out of the way, since it looks like I'm not going to be storing the vac under a work surface anyhow. Now I'm thinking about selling my scroll saw to make a hole for the vac, since I bought the band saw I haven't used the scroll saw once.

On a side note, I've seen many opinions on Festool abrasives vs other brands. My main issue is that the festool papers all seem to come in packs of 50 or 100, and are relatively expensive. I was wondering if anyone knows of another brand of paper that fits the ETS150 where maybe you can get packs of 10 or variety packs (or similar). I just dont know that I want to buy (or find a place to store) 100 discs of 4-5 different grits of paper.

Yea, I've had worse problems. Will gladly deal with this one. Thank you! It was from a lumberyard there. My wife's brother has a furniture/cabinet business in NW OK and usually gets his lumber from this yard in OKC. While we were there he took us since the prices were much better than I could get in LV. He also let us peruse through his lumber stash to see if we wanted anything. Got some good Eastern Red Cedar (for about $12 less a BF than can get it in Vegas) and some amazing spalted sycamore that he spalted and cut himself. I'm going to check out the exhibition hall but am not registered for any of the classes.

I have completely stuffed my shop to the gills. Hardly any room to move around in there anymore. First was the Laguna 1412, which was nice and I already had a spot set aside in the shop for it. Then came a trip back to Oklahoma. Added a couple hundred board feet of lumber that I had nowhere to put. Combination of barnwood, Peruvian Walnut, Alder, Chituba, Spalted Sycamore, Padauk, Bloodwood, Maple, Beech, Mahogany, Tigerwood, Wenge, Lacewood, Red Cedar, Zebrawood and a couple of really old french doors from an old house on my inlaws property. Then someone just had to post this festool stuff for sale on CL the other day. My old shop vac had burned out a while back, and I was tired of sanding and dominoing without any dust collection. $900 later and I have a CT36 with the organization rack and a 150/5 ROS. Now I need to figure out how to make space to move around and make stuff.

FWIW, I used Arm-R-Seal semi-gloss to finish a Cherry entry way table and it turned out fantastic. Had thoughts of using Danish oil underneath, but now I'm glad I didn't. The ARS gives it a nice warm tone without the need for oil underneath.

My thoughts are in line with what some others have posted on here. That doesn't look as much like tearout as it looks like indentions from chips getting pressed into the wood by the rollers. Mind you I dont have a HH planer, and maybe I'm not looking at the pic right. But that is what it looks like to me.

I'm assuming that, since he is using domino's already, that the staples are more decorative than structural.

I was only commenting on the comment about breaking down full sheets comment. I dont endorse the idea that a track saw is a replacement for a table saw, just that it can be just as easy to break down sheet goods with one.

I would disagree with this point. Especially for a one person shop without a larger slider type table saw. And accurate track saw, like the Festool, should be able to easily replace a table saw for breaking down sheet goods. Without a lot of space and the right setup, its somewhat difficult to break down sheet goods on the table saw. With a track saw, you can bring the smaller tool to the wood. This is assuming that the operator is able to get the track lined up parallel. Once you get the sheets down to manageable size, or if you are ripping 4" wide stock down to 3.5", is really where the TS is by far the best tool for the job.

Is there a votech, community college or other type of school around your area that teaches woodworking classes? Is there a woodworking collective in your area? I can't think of a better term than "collective"...its basically where someone (or several people) have put together a fully equipped shop and allow others to come in and use the shop after taking a intro safety course. You might try these routes to see if working the wood is up your alley before dropping money on tools. I'm very very much in the camp of buying the best tools you can afford the first time around. With the generally being the centerpiece of the shop, I'm even more adamant that this isn't the tool to start "cheap" with. I was in the camp of being a discouraged beginner when I was working with a underpowered, poor quality jobsite type saw.... when I upgraded to a 3hp cabinet saw, it was like rainbows and unicorns magically appeared in my shop. It made everything 100x more enjoyable, and the quality of my stuff increased more than that. You very well can make do with a cheaper saw, but if you are woodworking for relaxation, enjoyment, hobby, etc....you are going to want a TS that helps facilitate that...not one that hinders it.